Okay I know LS and 8000 RPMs don’t mix but I want to give it a shot with little modification.
Setup:
B18a block (rebuilt i.e. new bearings, balanced whatnot)
Z-10 Girdle with all GSR/ITR mods to oil pan
NuFormz Blockguard
ARP Rod Bolts
Debating shot peening rods or changing out for ITR/GSR rods
(any opinions on that last one?!?!)
Head mods:
dual valve springs
ti-retainers
turbo cams
should I get new valve guides?!?! or are stock fine?
What do you think. It is a relatively simple setup. Not too much but I only plan on running AT MOST 10 psi. No more! I want to get to 8000 RPMs to get the extra power out of my turbo down the road. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
I have considered b18c1 block but my main concern would be dropping $600 on just a block when I am getting a B18a longblock, s1 tranny, distributor, and ecu for only $550. The reason I like the b18c1 block is that it already has the girdle stock, piston coolors and I am assuming stronger rods and higher compression pistons. Could I make the piston coolors work with a b18a engine if I have them installed? I know Jim Wolf has a machine to install them and I used to have an SR20 so I know how they work and why I would like them. Can an ECU be chipped to make the b18c engine ones work on a b18a?
get aftermarket rods…you might regret it if you dont, b/c for a little more than $300 you can be worry free. i know i wouldnt be revving a b18a up that high with stock rods, let alone with boost. eagle or probe rods are pretty cheap.
you will DEFINITELY want to at leas shot peen and maybe cryo your rods. This is even more important than the block guard.
you cannot use itr/gsr rods. they just don’t work.
buying aftermarket rods isn’t necessary for an ls/vtec. you can build an ls bottom end to rev to 8000-8500 safely on stock shot peened rods (given you have the other things you need, like rod bolts, appropriate valvetrain…). However since you’re plan on running boost it might be in your best interest to get the aftermarket rods.
after the cost of shotpeening and ARP rod bolts, you might as well spend a little more green on aftermarket rods for added security. if you are going to do it, do it right.
just my 2 cents
Originally posted by chipper after the cost of shotpeening and ARP rod bolts, you might as well spend a little more green on aftermarket rods for added security. if you are going to do it, do it right.
just my 2 cents
personally i think it depends on the situation. people have different budgets, and different plans for their engine.
originally i had been planning an ls/vtec. I was going to have the rods shot peened ($100), and get arp rod bolts ($40). I did a lot of research on this stuff, talked it over with dan and many other people. From everything i gathered it would be safe to have an 8k redline with the rods that way, and most likely even be able to rev to 8.5k safely—but i like to er on the safe side, so i wasn’t planning to. And when i say redline, i mean something that you can rev to safely all the time, not the point at which it will fail.
I personally think the extra $150+ wouldn’t be worth it for aftermarket rods. The stock rods are pretty strong. But that was for me. I was going N/A, and probably wouldn’t ever get over 180whp. this guy is planning turbo. In which case i’d recommend aftermarket rods pretty much no matter what. But, i don’t know much about turbo, so i can’t really give too much info on that.