Hey guys, got a problem with my 92 teg. Basically, whoever had the car before me cut their constant power wire MUCH MUCH too short, and now the wire from the car is in-accessible. I need to get a new one, but I’m not sure of how to go about it. I’m a novice to auto repair, so anything too difficult I would probably have to pay for. I’m hoping it’s fairly easy…
Forgot to mention that it’s the wire for the stereo-I’m trying to install my CD player instead of the one that came with the car…
Thanks
You can wire one up from a number of locations, from the ignition harness to the fuse panel behind the drivers kick panel among others. Just make sure whichever source you use is independently fused for the head unit.
A friend of mine suggested that I use one of the male leads at the top of the fuse box. All I would ned to do is get a female connector and a wire, and run it to the ignition wire lead. He said there are leads for ignition, when your lights are on, and a constant power. All I would need to do is find the ignition and wire it that way, correct?
Also, if someone could tell me the color of the 92’ accesory (ignition power) wire in my teg, that would make my job much much easier =)
Thanks for the reply!
Originally posted by morbo
[B]A friend of mine suggested that I use one of the male leads at the top of the fuse box. All I would ned to do is get a female connector and a wire, and run it to the ignition wire lead. He said there are leads for ignition, when your lights are on, and a constant power. All I would need to do is find the ignition and wire it that way, correct?
Also, if someone could tell me the color of the 92’ accesory (ignition power) wire in my teg, that would make my job much much easier =)
Thanks for the reply! [/B]
You are half right. Yes, you can get the constant power that way from one of the 3 spade terminals on your fuse panel. Just probe to see which spade plug on the fuse offers the constant power.
Because you are looking for constant power, you don’t want to tap into the ignition power because it will only be hot when the key is in the run position. You need a lead that is always hot at all times, even without the key in (hence the term constant power). When I said ingnition before, I meant the ingnition harness under the steering column. It has ignition, accesory, start and constant power, if you wanted to get it from there, although the spade terminal at the fuse box would probably be easier than splicing into the otherwise thick 10 gauge wire for the ignition harness.
Yeah, I understand that-but the problem is I was mistaken when I made the post. The constant power wire is fine, it’s the ignition wire that needs to be replaced…
Many many thanks for all of the help!
Alright then, but it’s the accessory wire that is used at the stereo harness (yellow/red).
To find an alternate accessory power wire (when the key is in the accessory position, but not the run (ignition) position), then the correct wire to tap into is the yellow (10 gauge) wire, located on the ingnition wiring harness underneath the steering column.
Will it be the only yellow wire?
The harness is covered in black tape or plastic (depending if it has been accessed before), and there are only about five 10-gauge wires there. Yes, it is the only yellow wire of the 5. If you remove the lower dash knee panel, you’ll have better access to this ignition wire set.
By the way, have you tried the cigarette lighter wire? I don’t smoke, but I believe it is ‘accessory’ switched also. Probe the center lead to confirm. It may save you from tapping your wire from the former-mentioned ignition harness location.
Yes I have, and for some unkown reason the previous owner once again cut his leads too short for the cigarette lighter (why would you cut them in the 1st place?!?)
The car is in FINE condition other than this silly wiring…
I messed around with it today, but couldn’t find the wire you were talking about. I followed it as best I could from the radio harness along with the tape around the wires-but couldn’t see where it all lead when it dipped up into the steering coulmn…
Are you saying I take off the entire panel (including around the steering wheel)? If so, that is the 1 place I did not check…
I did however, re-crimp all of my wires and ran new 12 gauge speaker wire throughout my car, I’m almost there! =)
You won’t get to that yellow wire I’m talking about by following the stereo harness wire back. (By the way, if you are able to follow that stereo harnes back a ways, why not just add wire to the accessory wire used for the stereo already? or is it too short?).
The ignition harness wire I’m talking about is under the steering column. Yes, you can get to it by removing that panel that you haven’t removed already, but if you wanted to get the wire from farther away from the key switch, you have to remove that lower knee panel (and metal plate if you have one). THEN you’ll see the back plastic covered ignition harness drooping under the steering column. Pictures are worth a thousand words, but unfortunately I don’t have a digicam - sorry. Keep at it, and I’ll help as best I can.
Yes I do have one of those metal kick plates, but I can’t find the way to remove it. Do I need an alan wrench, or what?
I’m sooooo close now =)
So far I haven’t seen any Canadian G2 Integras with this metal plate there, but after working on Thanh’s car, I’ve delt with it and it’s easy to remove. However, you have to move the center console back a bit so that you can get enough clearance to undo the bolts that hold that metal plate on. I believe there are two on each side, but it’s been a while since I’ve worked on a US Integra so I can’t be certain on how many bolt there are exactly. I just remember it was very simple to remove with a standard ratchet/socket.