just wondering if anyone here is competing in SQ(sound quality) competitions and what your setup is. I’ve been out of the game for just under a year now but I loved to tune cars for SQ when I worked at Car Toys. I was in the middle of finalizing my order for all my stuff through accomidations when I quit(fired) but oh well.
also if anyone has any questions on EQ’s, crossovers, processors, analog vs. digital or most anything else I can help- I’m an audiophile and I need help
audio
can you please explain to me what crossovers do?
ohms?
dual voice coilovers?
reference and component speaker, difference?
and for around $300-$400 whats the best setup i can do w/ limited money? (head unit, subs, amp only, do not include tweeter or speakers)
Thanks alot
Dominick
hatien@mail.com
Re: audio
Originally posted by 90TegLS
[B]can you please explain to me what crossovers do?
ohms?
dual voice coilovers?
reference and component speaker, difference?
and for around $300-$400 whats the best setup i can do w/ limited money? (head unit, subs, amp only, do not include tweeter or speakers)
Thanks alot
Dominick
hatien@mail.com [/B]
WOW ok thats a whole lot–
ok what a crossover is in lamens terms is a way to channel the right sound to the right place. If you have a set of tweeters, you dont want what a subwoofer would want to try and come out of the tweeters. So you set the crossover to a certain frequency(a certain point in the audible listening range- 20 Hz- 20 kHz) in order to put the right frequencies to the right places. For instance- for most door speakers, you’ll want to put a crossover somewhere in the realm of 100-300 hz and higher that way when a low frequency note below that comes out from your music- it ownt try to play something that the speaker cant handle which would normally lead to distortion and damage to your speaker.
an ohm is a level of resistance. The higher the ohm level the more resistance wattage has to “fight” through to get to the speaker. high ohms are not a bad thing by any means. You want to correctly match the level of ohms in you speakers to the level of ohms that your amplifier will put out. Working with ohms and subwoofers is a mouthfull to learn in one sitting- and we can go into that later- but thats what ohms are
and i believe you meant dual voice coils- a dual voice coil meanse there are 2 voice coils- which is what actually moves the speakers up and down. It is simply more efficient than a single voice coil setup would be- almost to the analogy of why a single overhead cam typically isnt as efficient as a dual overhead cam engine. a sub being a dual voice coil can also have something to do with the connection of multiple subwoofers and achieving the correct ohm load level for the amp that you have
i think what you meant by reference and component is coaxial and component. a coaxial speaker has a tweeter that isplaced through the center of the cone speaker and thereby cuts a hole in the center of the speaker cone. this is what most stock speakers are and most low end aftermarket speakers. Component speaker have the tweeter seperately mounted from the cone speaker and they are two seperate speakers alltogether usually routed to a crossover and then routed to your amplifier- either seperate or inside your deck. the advantages of components are your frequency response is much greater- i.e. it will produce a wider range of sound with less distortion. The dissadvantages are you will have to put more power to the speakers in order to get through the crossover and usually the voice coil on seperates are larger, they are more expensive, and you have to usually modify your door panels to cut a hole for the tweeter to be mounted.
and honestly for about 3-400 dollars i would get one of the above things you mentioned above. I am prolly not the best person to ask about getting entry level stuff cause i dont think any of it sounds good- when i worked at car toys, i would always ask people, “Would you rather have 10 ford pintos or one mercedes in your garage?” what i was getting at is that instead of buying a bunch of entry level stuff and getting everything, buy one or two really nice, high quality pieces you’ll be happy with and go from there. If you want to do that, I would suggest getting a deck first(along with an alarm if you dont have one) I have always like Alpine decks- the model #'s have changes since i was selling them but spend 3-400 on an alpine deck and you will not regret it. Now if you wanna set a budget a little larger for a long term project- like 1500-3 thousand- i can help you put something together easily for a good bang for the buck system-
HTH
ohm?
a unit of resitance, generally car audio uses 4 ohm speakers, home audio uses 8 ohms. The lower the ohms the less resistance and generally more distortion.
dual voice coilovers?
they are simply two coils in a speaker instead of one, allowing for more wiring configuration
reference and component speaker, difference?
not sure what you mean by reference, but a component speaker is usually consits of a mid, tweet, and a crossover.
and for around $300-$400 whats the best setup i can do w/ limited money? (head unit, subs, amp only, do not include tweeter or speakers)
If you want a head unit, sub and amp for 3-400 maybe this
Alpine SWS1041 $100
Alpine MRP-F320 5 channel amp $200
Clarion DB125 $100
thats 400 but no install stuff.
there are so many other options also.
If it were my system, i would start with a good head unit probably from alpine, eclipse, kenwood that would run anywhere from 3-500. or a quality amp to power my speakers, maybe a four channel or a two depending on your overall goals
Hey nice topic man! Can you recommend me a setup for good quality music. I don’t need crazy bass (been there, done that) or anything. Maybe a nice head unit, interiors, amp. What do you think is a good setup? Looking for good quality, and clarity. Any, and all help is very much appreciated!
Thanks,
Goldfingiz
IMO for my personal taste- this is THE setup to have
Alipine dead head- model 7969 I believe
JL500/5- I fell in love with this amp the first time i got to play with it- front staged plenty of power for subs and will make component s sing like birds
JL 12W3-D2 - One JL 12 in the right size box- sealed of course- is all you need.
JLXR650CSi’s- as oyu can tell, I’m a JL fan- not as “tinty” as the MBQuarts and not as expensive as Focals, Cadence and the like.
Rear speaker- i’m not the biggest fan of- put a $100 pair of coaxials in if you want- this is the part of the setup where my preferences differ than mosts. IMHO- music is recorded in 2 channel stereo- that’s the setup you should have. When you go to a concert, are there speakers behind you? NO- there shouldnt be in your car either.
The JL 500/5 amp has plenty of adjustability, but if you want to tinker with getting it just right, get a 30 band parametric EQ- Phoenix Gold makes a good one. This is where the help of a proffesional is definately needed or else youre wasting your money and its not necessary.
Also spending the extra $$ to have a proffesional make you some fiberglass kick panels will help imaging and staging drammatically. Q-Formz suck arse not worht a dime.
This is what my Teg has in it… I am an audiophile living in Australia.
Head Unit, Alpine IVA -C800 screen, Alpine 6 disc changer, Eclipse 31 band EQ, Focal Utopia 3 way front end, custom kicks and remember I live in Australia so, every thing is on the other side, so almost NO room for a build out, 6" mid-bass in fully dynamatted front doors, and including deflex pads behind speakers, custom tweeter pods on axis.
2x Alpine 12" type R subwoofers, in a 36mm MDF enclosure fully fibreglassed inside and out and including Deflex pads to absorb back waves.
Two Alpine V12 amplifiers, MRV- 1005 running front end, 170RMS per side and a MRY-T505 running 6" rear speakers (focal) Orion HCCA amp running the Type R 12" subs. The whole car has been sound deadened to within an inch of it life. Phoenix gold and Stinger cabling throughout. Stinger battery 1/0 AWG cabling, Lighting Audio 1 Farad cap.
What do you all think?? So far the response has been good, I will begin to compete
Originally posted by Tegboy
[B]This is what my Teg has in it… I am an audiophile living in Australia.
Head Unit, Alpine IVA -C800 screen, Alpine 6 disc changer, Eclipse 31 band EQ, Focal Utopia 3 way front end, custom kicks and remember I live in Australia so, every thing is on the other side, so almost NO room for a build out, 6" mid-bass in fully dynamatted front doors, and including deflex pads behind speakers, custom tweeter pods on axis.
2x Alpine 12" type R subwoofers, in a 36mm MDF enclosure fully fibreglassed inside and out and including Deflex pads to absorb back waves.
Two Alpine V12 amplifiers, MRV- 1005 running front end, 170RMS per side and a MRY-T505 running 6" rear speakers (focal) Orion HCCA amp running the Type R 12" subs. The whole car has been sound deadened to within an inch of it life. Phoenix gold and Stinger cabling throughout. Stinger battery 1/0 AWG cabling, Lighting Audio 1 Farad cap.
What do you all think?? So far the response has been good, I will begin to compete
[/B]
wow- good stuff bro- are your competing in SQ? How close to flat are you? thats a lot of time and money right there- and I know how much of a pain it is to sound deaden the car thats a lot of work - good job
OHM - The sound someone makes when meditating. -“Ohmmmmmmm”
Re: audio
Originally posted by 90TegLS
[B]can you please explain to me what crossovers do?
ohms?
dual voice coilovers?
reference and component speaker, difference?
and for around $300-$400 whats the best setup i can do w/ limited money? (head unit, subs, amp only, do not include tweeter or speakers)
Thanks alot
Dominick
hatien@mail.com [/B]