its simple im cheap and hate autobody work. i have some spider cracks on my teg not a big spot really i cant post pics of it if itll help. i just wanna know some good techs on getting rid of them besides sanding and painting the car again the paint it in good condition just the cracks on one patch. any advice on paint fillers or color sanding, auto body tech thatll be cheaper then a re paint
-cheapazz
post pics if you can.
Are the cracks on the bunper or the body or where?
In body work, the easiest way to go is pretty much allways to sand and paint, but sometimes there’s other things…
ill definately take pics in the morning if itll help but the cracks are on the rear fender and below the door moldings on the actually passenger door. my car is black if that helps any which im sure it doesnt 
GS27 …i think thats what its called…its supposed to fill scratches i dont know about cracks though…maybe u can try that 1st …it might fill a good portion of it anyway
thanx for the response and help. ill make sure to get those pics of ASAP the cracks under the door molding are minor but anyone that owns a black car knows its not an easy color to keep clean. the paint is a repaint i was told and it just looks like they did a poor job on sanding/prepping it before. im no pro autobody person but it looks that way
any idea what caused it, too?
Hey - I’m in auto body now. These cracks you speak of sound like they are too large for the GS27 stuff. The best way to fix this IS to sand, filler, and then blend paint. Otherwise ur just going to come up with a shoddy job and be better off now then you would after attempting a fix. I know that’s probably not what you want to hear - but if you want it done right . . .
yeah i read the gs27 site and it says if u feel obstruction with ur fingernail then its not a surface scratch and it wont work. i went to some other sites that took some filler and really fine sanding then a clear coat is this what u are talking about??? and im gonna take pictures in just a minute ill have them up soon
excuse the dust:p 
if i do have to sand and paint, which i havent excluded, what would the price range be for sanding and repainting it black with some QUALITY i dont want to repaint it and have some crappy ass job.
how hard would it be to buy the spray can paint from www.towerpaint.com/ then just sand the area down, tape it off, primer, spray it with the can stuff, then buff it out and fade it in with the rest of your paint. what kind of clear coat would you need to use and how should you fade this in with the rest of the paint.
Originally posted by dElPHilSvTeC858
if i do have to sand and paint, which i havent excluded, what would the price range be for sanding and repainting it black with some QUALITY i dont want to repaint it and have some crappy ass job.
You can do he filling and sanding yourself. Get body filler (not bondo brand) that you have to mix a hardener in with it (like $20-25), then get 600 grit wet sand paper and sand it smooth. Make sure that you use a sanding blick though otherwise you will have little finger marks in the filler. Once its smooth go get it painted ($150-250). Then you will have a parfectly smooth door and a new paint job:D
i was looking at the car today and i see many imprefections that id like removed i decided the best way is to have it professionally painted if i sand it myself wont i save money and what materials should i use for the actually sanding itself?
I agree - you should do the body work yourself and have it professionally repainted. And like one of the other members said - get body filler and not the bondo brand although I don’t think it would make too much of a diff. I would recommend Z-Grip or Rage fillers. First you are going to grind to bare metal - if you have a grinder with about 36 grit - good - if not just block it with 36 grit. Once at bare metal - the scratch should be sanded out. Work out an area about 2 - 3 inches from the repair area and then apply filler over the entire sanded area and over lap ur paint
once filler has cured - block it w/ 80 grit until flush then you may have to apply a filler putty and block it with 220 grit - you decide. Work the whole area smooth with 320 grit - mask off the repair area and then use sandable primer in a can - sand it with about 600 until very smooth and that’s all you should need prepped before a body shop. Dont think I left anything out . . .
Originally posted by DohcInTegra
I agree - you should do the body work yourself and have it professionally repainted. And like one of the other members said - get body filler and not the bondo brand although I don’t think it would make too much of a diff. I would recommend Z-Grip or Rage fillers. First you are going to grind to bare metal - if you have a grinder with about 36 grit - good - if not just block it with 36 grit. Once at bare metal - the scratch should be sanded out. Work out an area about 2 - 3 inches from the repair area and then apply filler over the entire sanded area and over lap ur paint
You DONT need to grind it down to bare metal!!! If you do this your body will have waves in it!!! Dont tell him to do this because it is not needed. Just sand it down until the paint is dull, and fill in dents like I said before. Dont make more work then you need. Use 600 grit for sanding straight parts and 400 grit for sanding parts where filler is.:shock: I have done cars before and this is all that needs to be done…grinding the body will totally fu%* it up!! If you have any more questions u can email me @ vtecteg4u@hotmail.com, but just sand…DONT GRIND!!!
so if i have about 10 diffrent spots on the car, the side molding, and the mirrors and i do all the prep work myself how much would it cost to have them spray it and fade it in with the rest of the car?
I hear what your saying vtecteg - but we can’t even see any pictures to see how deep the crack is - its not a scratch from what he’s saying. If it is cracked - then it is most likely cracked down to the bare metal anyways because the paint and primer are stuck together like a chip. If he uses a sanding block like I said and filler - there will be no waves. That’s what the filler is for and blocking it - grinding down to bare metal is the best way to fix the problem - and by going 2 - 3 inches from repair area - that will make sure that he removes the paint stresses around the crack that may crack later anyhow. Everyone has their methods I suppose - but this is how we do things in the body shop - and its worked best so far. Not trying to be a textbook junkie or anything tho . . .
Originally posted by DohcInTegra
I hear what your saying vtecteg - but we can’t even see any pictures to see how deep the crack is - its not a scratch from what he’s saying. If it is cracked - then it is most likely cracked down to the bare metal anyways because the paint and primer are stuck together like a chip. If he uses a sanding block like I said and filler - there will be no waves. That’s what the filler is for and blocking it - grinding down to bare metal is the best way to fix the problem - and by going 2 - 3 inches from repair area - that will make sure that he removes the paint stresses around the crack that may crack later anyhow. Everyone has their methods I suppose - but this is how we do things in the body shop - and its worked best so far. Not trying to be a textbook junkie or anything tho . . .
coo…I thought you were refering to grinding down the whole body. I agree with just grinding down the crack, but it has to be done carefully because its hard to get it straight again. Just make sure you use a block whatever you do
alright fellas thanx for all ur posts. i know i promised u all pictures but it appears my images arent working so here is a link to another profile ill leave this pic up for a couple days of the scratchs so u can get a better idea. http://profiles.yahoo.com/s817_d13g0_1313