need help bad
need help badly because i have no heat.
Any help would be helpful guys!!!
thank
Try cleaning it first like someone else did? I wouldn’t buy that part used.
hey whats that dieelectric grease called? manufacturer?
permatex in a grey tube.
Hmmm. When this started happening in my Teg, the dealer said the key was worn, happens all the time, just get a new key. I got a new key and everything worked for a couple of years and then it started again. Second new key didn’t last as long. Only happens when it is cold, so I figured out that if hold a piece of newspaper over the vents and direct a blast of heat for about 30 seconds towards the key then voila, the key comes out every time. Now after reading this thread I finally (duh!) noticed the red P wasn’t coming on, so now I just jiggle the gear selector to make the P light up and the key comes out. Can anyone explain why a problem with the contacts in the gearshift column can be worked around by a new key or heating the ignition switch??
I shall have to try this little fix it.
wow
Yet again… you guys were right. Although I’m still in school… I had time this weekend to fix this problem using what you guys wrote down. I cost me $7 for the dielectric grease, and 95 cents for the scrubber thingy and about 4 hours of work total (probably could’ve taken less time if I was less of a newbie). I wasn’t able to remove the switch from the metal piece holding it to the frame so I just cleaned it while it was attached to the system, which probably wasn’t safe. Anyhow, my car works just fine now. Thanks G2IC!
Sorry to raise up this old post again, but I just wanted to comment. I’ve had this problem since I’ve had my Integra, after reading this post I ran to Murray’s Auto and grabbed a tube of Dielectric Grease ($2.85 USD). It took me about 2 hours to do the whole thing, and it worked great. Here’s what I did, step by step:
[What you’ll need: Philips Screwdriver, Flat Screwdriver, DIN Tools, 10mm Socket Wrench, Dielectric Grease, Q-Tips, and rubbing alcohol ]
- Slide out and disconnect your stereo head unit with your DIN Tools. (This might not be necessary if you still have the stock head unit in.)
- Remove the ash tray.
- Remove the change tray. (Pry from right side with the flat screwdriver)
- Remove the driver side kick panel. (3 screws)
- Remove the passenger side kick panel. (2 screws)
- Unscrew the center console panel. (2 screws were hidden by the driver side kick panel, 2 were hidden by the passenger side one, 2 more along the floor on the driver side, and 2 more on the passenger side along the floor, and 1 behind where the ash tray was.)
- Shift the gear selector to S
- Remove the center console panel. (Lift up from the rear portion of it)
- Unscrew and lift up the Shift handle. (2 screws, don’t lose the spring and button that will pop out.)
- Unscrew the gear selector bezel. (4 screws)
- Under the bezel on the passenger side is the neutral safety switch (see pictures on previous page) unbolt this. (2 10mm bolts)
- Disconnect the wire harnesses and remove the harness from it’s mounting. (mine was stuck so I broke it off)
- Pry apart the switch from it’s mounting by sliding a small flat screwdriver in between and twisting.
- The switch will now be in three pieces, the mounting, the panel with the leads on it, and the selector. (Note, the selector has a very small steel bearing in it with a spring behind it. Do not lose either piece)
- Get to work cleaning the leads on the selector and lead panel. Scrub them with rubbing alcohol soaked q-tips, (or paper towels) until all of the metal is clean and shiny.
- Re-grease the leads on the panel and selector with dielectric grease. Don’t use too much but make sure all of the leads are well covered.
- Put the neutral safety switch pieces back together.
- Mount the switch back to the gear selector. Make sure the pin on the side of the selector is in the slot on the selector on the switch.
- Do steps 12 - 1 backwards to put all of your panels back together.
- Enjoy. :auto:
Thanks so much to all the members who contributed to this thread. Earlier today, I hopefully fixed this painfully irritating problem. I’m in the ATL, so it’s not cold enough to find out if it has truly been fixed yet, but within the next month or so, I should know.
It got cold here this month, and I found out I had the same annoying problem when it got into the 30’s. I thought the repair was the shifter linkage to the transmission. After reading this forum I found the common problem.
I made reference to the pictures posted earlier.
I Just took the electronic shifter switch out and took it apart. It is ok to break the wiring harness off the frame to take it off easier, but do this carefully. You have to take ALL the parts out of the sliding switch and clean them perfect! Dont stretch or damage the 2 small springs. You have to clean the parts holes of all the old grease in the slider. Then regrease the assembly with a light coat of dielectric grease. Take cleaning alcohol (my 95% I use for cleaning computers) and clean the main switch board. Clean the electric connects till they are shiny. Regrease it as well with dielectric grease. Put everything back together CORRECTLY. You will have to make sure that the switch is aligned with the shifter in park position before tightening the 2 bolts.
Wallah. If you did this right it will work like its brand new and the repair was only $1-$2 for the dielectric grease.
This is the real “Poor” person’s way to do this, and the correct way to do it.
No need to cut wires which is dangerous:mad: , or replace the part which will cost you $75:stare: at the dealer.
yes im in central new york and my teg has the same problem i always thought it was the shift solenoids,but yea after waiting in my car every morning before work i decided to get another key and turn the car off so the key is on the radio acc. posistion and then by the time i came out of work my car would be in park,make sure to turn ur radio off so u dont kill ur battery,but i will be trying this this weekend
well i tried cleaning the contacts of the weekend and regreasing,that didnt help,so i called my local acura dealer the part is 53.00 in stock brand new!
You might have to adjust (Bend) the metal contacts on the slider very lightly so they touch the switch board better. Also make sure you clean ALL the parts on the slider by taking them out and using alcohol. And put it back together (correctly) with dielectric grease. You will also have to adjust the slider to the pin on the shift lever. do this by hooking up the switch to the shifter, then connect the electric connectors, then turn the car on (not the motor) and go through the gears. When it feels aligned properly, tighten the 2 bolts clamping it down.
I did all this and it took 1 hr. and $1.
Shifts like new even on 10 degree nights.
dielectric grease v white lithium grease?
will white lithium grease do the same thing as dielectric?
I have this problem with my 92 Auto DA… I haven’t gotten around to fixing it yet but since winter is gone it hasn’t been a issue for me…
Sorry to bring this back from the dead but this just began to happen to me. I will be trying this tonight. Took the console out on break at work and will take the switch out as soon as I get home.
so a friend of mine has a problem simular to the one in this thread but he cant ever take his car out of park he has to put his spare key in the whole next to the shifter and then take it out of park but once its off of park it will go in to any gear o and his key dont get stuck in the ignition what could it be?
cleaned my contacts and did everything it said but my car always thinks its in reverse when its in park. and the park light lights up now so im assuming its the cable? what else could it be?