Drive a 92-93 GS-R and judge for yourself. You can also do a search since this subject has been debated over and over and over and over and over again.
had a B16 in a 91 SI CIVC HATCH…and it was ok…drove a teg with a B16…and it pulled crappy…i had to wait tillit reached like 7500-8000 before i can feel some power…and then i had to change gears…
remember a 1.6L in a 2600 lb car is just not going to be all that…
if in the future u have LOADS of mods for your B16…then you can take the chance and swap it…
Right Now, I’m trying to decide, B16a swap or straight Ls/Vtec. I read up on both. I like the torque and power curve of Ls/Vtec, but the b16a aftermarket is crazy all sorts of parts. I need some advice, can you guys help. I have a 90 LS,
if youre looking for an engine with a lot of pull, the b16 isn’t your engine. I am driving mine right now without the Vtec hooked up cuz I am looking for an ECU and I don’t know for sure, but it feels slower than my old b18 because of the loss of torque. once I get the ecu I’ll be better off in the high RPM’s but I still gotta buy mods to build my lower RPM performance. Don’t get me wrong, I love my new engine, but i’m more concerned with actual overall performance, rather than instant gratification.
i have a b16a jdm in a 90 integ basically stock condition… it certainly feels slower than the b18a but the reason i got the b16 because it has more potential because of the exchangeable type R parts avaliable.
to give you an idea… i ran it last week at the track and did a 16.8
all stock wid full interior wid sound system…
you really need to look at what you want… if you want speed quick go Ls/vteck cause my friend runs 15.2 stock ls/vteck… but if your looking for long term build up go b16a… Ls/vteck tends to leak no matter where you get it done at or what people say…
Well, Someone here posted Road and tracks review of the 90 teg, and they listed the 0-60 times of the car with the b18. they also went on to say how they were upset that the integra xsi b16a and its 0-60 time of 6.8 wasn’t coming to america because honda believed that the american market would rather have a engine with more torque. I never drove my teg with the b16a stock. I have a whole bunch of upgrades and it friggin flys… the lack of torque shouldn’t really matter because the gears are so much lower than the tranny that comes with the b18. If you put a tranny from a b18 and put it on a b16a then yeah it would probably suck unless you had turbo/nitrous.
If honda put it in their japanese market, I think it works!!!
Go for it, everybodys opinion is good but in the end its not yours. Do what you feel is right, and a B16A is a great engine. Just make sure if you get an old one you fix it up before putting it in.
I love my B16. If you use it with the correct tranny (in my case the engine and tranny came together (J1) it will work fine. I definately feel more power out of it, especially at high rpm’s like on the highway. This thing revs a 5000 @130 km/h. I think that’s pretty ****in cool considering the engine’s pure stock. I don’t regret getting rid of my b18.
my b16a will be 11.4-ish compression, ITR/Portflow valvetrain, CTR/ITR cam combo, and later on i’ll be upgrading to a full portflow head job (port/polish etc) with skunk2 stage 2 cams.
needless to say with the later job i’ll be looking at over 200 at the wheels, and yes when it’s done (think july) i’ll put up dynos to prove it.
i ultimately plan on mating the head to a GSR bottom end with approximately 12:1 compression and turning maggie into an all-out gutted track car. that’s a year or so down the road though.
Well now my car has major weight reduction, but not registered… dont’ drive it much, but Damn for 1.6L. I love the revs past vtec, pull. I mean, it’s a lot faster than my 15.2 modded LS. I basically swapped it over with all the bolt-ons so it pulled well already. I liked it more the first night cruisin it. I just don’t think the difference in torque between 1.8 and 1.6 isn’t significant enough to blow your hair back; power is concentrated in different parts of the power band.
current mods
P30 block, P30 IM
Stock valvetrain, 3 angle vavle job, milled 30 thousandths
I/H/E
cam gears +2,-1
fuel pressure regulator
Ignition timing 17deg
p&p throttle body
Aftermarket Ignition
ACT 6 pad clutch set
12lb flywheel
Mugen chipped p28 brain
Haven’t dynoed or timed it but very satisfied. The next mods are ITR cams, a straight pipe, lighter wheels+street slicks, and a CAI system.
Hey sell your b18 after you strip it of accessories and then buy yourself a b16a, you can get a whole swap for around $1000-1200 here on the east coast… most shops charge about the same to install it or you can install it yourself if you are technically inclined with cars. Then you can slowely build up your car or just spuge and go crazy like me crazy load_on…
by the way, my 15.2 LS ran with crower 403 cams, PYR brain, milled head, cam gears, fpr, etc… Swap those same things to a b16 except for cams and the b16 will be faster.
I had a b16 in my teg and i hated it…I was getting no power until I would say about 6-7000rpm…and that only gives me about 2000rpm stretch of power. In local street…u r goin to get smoked. I got smoked DOWNHILL by another teg with a b18a and really nothing beyond the I/H/E.
Now i turned that failure into a Ls/Vtec…can easily kill GSR’s and have given a few stang a run for their ponies