:bang: Hey guys. I have a little bit of a problem. Sometimes, when i’m stopped on a hill at a light, i have to keep pushing in my brakes to not roll back. Sometimes, i have to let off of them and re-apply them to keep myself put. Does anyone know how i can fix this? Any info would be appreciated, thanks.
Most likely your master cylinder is on its way out…its an easy enough fix. And just for the hell of it try bleeding all 4 corners first, its worth a try.
my old accord had this same problem, the brakes would slowly leak inwards and eventually id have to let off and pump.
it had a bad master cylinder. and it had air in the lines. hope that helps some?
Bleed the brakes multiple times, first, then check out a new MC.
yeha, i already bled, so it has to be the mc, thank you.
Well, I had to bleed my system 6-7 times before I thought the pedal felt fine. Rarely can you get all the air out the first time.
Took my car to mechanic with the same problem, told him it might be the master cylinder and he said it could be the back brake pads. Replaced the back brake pads, works good now.
try this …
I had same problem … i bled my breaks more than around 3 times … i thought it was the MC, till then, i took it to my other mechanic, and he told me my break fluid was contaminated. All we did was suck the old stuff out with a machine,then we applyed new brake fluid. Email me for more info if ya want …
Yeah, i know it’s not my pads, because they have over 70% life on them. The fluid could be the problem, but the car does have 145k on it, so it’s not like it couldn’t be the master cylander. Anyway, thanks for all your help guys. I’ll keep you updated on what the verdict is. :rockon:
sorry this is old but i bled my brake system 3 times and on HOT and only HOT days the pedal sinks when im stopped. it stops hard as hell when its not hot out. but im thinkin i still have air in the system. do you bleed each caliper one time then move on to the next or bleed each caliper about 5 times before moving on to the next one?
There is an order you go when bleeding brakes, and you bleed them until you see no more air, then move on to the next one, there is no set number of how many trys it will take before all the air is out. And you may have a problem with water in your lines if its acting up only when they get real hot…Brake fluid absorbs water from the atmosphere and will lower its boiling point, try flushing the whole system using a good quality fluid, I use valvoline synpower, seems to hold up to heat pretty good.
i have flushed it. and i am using valvoline syn power, it has gotten better on the third time i bled it. but how did you bleed your brakes?
I bought speedbleeders and some clear hose and ran about 6 quarts through the system since i didnt know when it was last bled, and i changed out my brake lines so i wanted all the air out. I cant rember the proper bleeding order but a good rule of thumb is start at the wheel farthest away from the MC and work your way towards it…I also heard a trick that helps get the air out, take a rubber mallet and bang on your caliper, this will loosen any air bubbles that are clinging anywhere.
where can you buy that clear tubing?
You wernt using clear tubing? How where you bleeding your brakes??? You can get it at home depot or any hardware store, hobby shop, etc. I belive you need a 1/4 inch diameter.
Your problem sounds like you bled the brakes wrong if you werent using tubing., if you dont use a tube, air will be sucked back in through the bleeder screw.
There are 3 ways to bleed brakes, the first, and cheapest way is to get a friend, put the tube over the bleeder screw, loosen it, have somone depress the brake pedal, but DO NOT let it go to the floor, there is a small chance there there could be a rust build up in your MC and pushing the pedal to the floor could destroy seals. Have them hold it there while you tighen the screw, when it is tight have them release the pedal and repeat the process until NO bubbles can be seen coming out of the tubing.
The second way is to buy a brake bleeder kit, that comes with a vacum pump, ther have instructions with them, but are kinda pricey and mine didnt work anyways so i just took it back.
The third and best way IMO and the way i did it and will continue to do it is buy a product called speedbleeders, you will need 4 of them but they are only a few bucks a peice. search the net they are easy to find. You install these in place of your old screw and they have a one way valve in them that only lets fluid out and not air in, they also have a material on the threads of the screw that will not allow air to get back in.
With these you do not have to loosen and retighten them thoughout the bleeding process, you just loosen it up about 1/2 turn, and pump the pedal, again not all the way to the floor, i put my foot under my pedal so it would block me from pressing it all the way to the floor, but you just pump the pedal until you see no more bubbles and retighten, its SOOOO easy, i love them. Also a tip, route the hose and container that your pumping the fluid into above the caliper, that way air bubbles will travle up the hose and not stick up by the bleeder screw making you think there are still air bubbles coming out of the caliper when theres really not. After bubbles stop coming out pound on your caliper a few times with a rubber mallet, and bleed some more. Then when your all done bleed them again a week or so later, that will make sure all the bubbles that have been knocked loose are out of the system
Also make sure that your MC NEVER goes below the MIN line, and that you have the cap ON when bleeding your brakes.
Let me know if i can be of any more help,
Matt
i used a black fuel line 1ft worth of it the black hoses it fit on the bleeder screw so it kinda worked. and also do you have to have some fluid in a bottle with the end of the tube submerged in the fluid while pumping the brake?
hey are you sure the diameter is 1/4 size because i got the clear tubing now from home depot and it looks like it wont fit but one of these days im gonna get under the car and see. you sure its not another size just incase this doesnt fit?
Well I said I wasnt sure, so get some 1/4" and some 1/8" diameter…im pretty sure it was 1/4 though…If you buy those speedbleeders, which i suggest because they are awesome and cheap, you can take on with you and find a size that fits perfect, you want a snug fit…
I bought my speedbleeders from summitracing…they are 10 bucks a pair there, make sure you call to order though to make sure you get the right ones…
Yes for some reason your suposed to have it submerged, i think its so that if you do let up on the pedal a little, fluid will be sucked back in not air…
The same thing was happening to me. Searched the archives which confirmed it was the master cylinder. Replaced it and no problems now.