did you tap your oil pan? where on the pan was it done if you did?
Theres no need to tap the oil pan, I got my oil feed from the golden eagle sandwich adapter
i have the sandwich adaptor as well and thought that line goes to the head but others have told me you need some kind of external line from the pan. to where, i have no idea. thinking about it now that seems retarded since the pan is where the oil sits.
haha yeah, you only need one or the other. Even if you wanted to go turbo as well, there is still an auxiliary port to use. Tapping the pan is only needed if you don’t have a sandwich adapter
The line to the pan is a return line for turbo apps, right? And the sandwich adapter is an oil feed line for the head or turbo, so, you guys are comparing apples and oranges right?
the sandwich plate has two holes for two lines so you can boost if you want. i was just confused if you needed a line from the head to the adaptor and the oil pan, or one or the other.
edit: do you have a pic of the back of the motor before you put it in after you finished?
You do not need to put any holes in the oil pan for ls/vtec unless you add a turbo into the mix. The sandwich plate adaptor serves the function of providing pressurized oil to the cylinder head/vtec solenoid. The oil passages that are present in the head will route the oil back into the pan via gravity/oil drain passages in the head and block.
Edit: Run one line to the head and plug the other oil output.
I had forgotten about the return line for turbo. Heres the only pic I have of the new oil feed to the head
that pic is nice. thanks for it.
Very nice thread you created. I plan on going this path too. I was wondering how much it cost you as I was reading through the thread and found out it cost you around $4000 and I went, :uhoh::stare: O CRAP. haha. Since what you did worked out great, I plan to follow what you did. I’ll just have to work extra LIKE CRAZY!
Also, since its been a month or two since you’ve updated us on how well you setup is holding up, I was hoping to hear anything else you might want to add since your last update. BTW, did you ever get it dyno tested to check your numbers? Thanx
-Jon
Great build man. Here’s a pic of the Full Race LSVTEC line I used. The main difference is that it uses an AN fitting where the oil pressure switch goes instead of a sandwich adapter.
Jon - Yeah I think it ended up costing me about that much, but I got EVERY possible new seal/gasket/hose/etc possible straight from honda. Believe me, it will all add up in the end. Engine is still awesome, the only problem I had with it was sealing the oil pan. It was brand new when I built the engine, and I replaced it 3 more times before I got it right. The problem ended up being that the old torque wrench I was using was way off, so I was over-tightening every time, so be careful! I’m just now adding I/H/E and I have put on after market springs and shocks. I also just got some new alloy wheels and I’m in the process of painting some sideskirts, a lip, new front bumper and new hood (some people can’t back out of a parking space). I think I’ll get new cams, cam gears, and get it dyno/tuned within the next 6 months.
synsei - Yeah I saw some “kits” like that one when I was searching around, but they were always on some really cheap, obscure website, so I wasn’t really confident about it fitting correctly. Looks good though. Any more pictures of your build?
Hey btw lsteg, here is a link to a thread on honda-tech by bambam. It’s a step by step guideline on doing an LS/VTEC conversion. I just finished reading all 28 pages. The write up i AWESOME (the thread consists of 28 pages, not the write up itself, lol). There might be some things in there, actually most likely, that will clear any questions of yours. For example, why not to use the Golden Eagle head gasket. He also recommends certain things for an LS/VTEC setup and recommends Not to use some things. He has done a few conversions himself and as he always says, speaks only from experience. It is really easy to understand and read. I definitely recommend it.
How to build a “reliable” lsvtec/b20vtec
Hope this is of use to you.
-Jon
thanks for the link, thats probably the only lsvtec thread i’ve never read. The info is coming a little late now, but its still good stuff. I had already read that some people had bad experiences with the golden eagle head gasket, but also that some people had no problems at all. To date ( 8 months and 12k later ) I have no problems at all. Good luck to you on your build!
Good posts guys. I am in the middle of my LSVTEC assembly and its nice to be able to compare notes. My build is probably over $4k Cdn. Everything costs more up here.
Anyone looking for a gasket kit might want to check http://www.streetimports.com. They have a complete gasket kit for $149 US. It sometimes goes on sale for $99. It is very complete. They also have a store on ebay.
Yea, I just found it myself because I saw a link in another thread. I wish I coulda helped you sooner, lol, but good thing your engine is fine!
Thanx a lot OldGuy, I will definetly check it out once I begin the conversion. I hope that thread helps you out too. It sure has helped me out and cleared some things up for me.
-Jon
One other comment regarding the rod bolts. The rod bolts are the most critical in terms of the risk that your engine will break under high loads. I am using ARP bolts that require a 26 lb ft preload and I found that among the three torque wrenches I have, there was a variation of almost 20 lb ft. I decided to invest in a stretch gauge and adhere to the ARP recommendations regarding bolt stretch. Its another $50 but I did not want to under or over torque the rod bolts and ruin a $4k engine. I had purchased a set of used Eagle rods that came with ARP bolts. When I measured them I discovered that 3 of the 8 bolts had been over stretched meaning they had been over torqued or otherwise stressed enough that the bolt length had been permanently lengthened. I replaced all the bolts with a new set for which the spec calls for a preload stretch of .0054 to .0058 inches. You can see that it wouldn’t take much to over stretch it. I am not suggesting that everyone run out a buy ARP bolts and a gauge. I am suggesting that you invest in new rod bolts, OEM or otherwise, if your build contains used rods. Also be very careful about the torque when you tighten those bolts.