Originally posted by DeftonesFur97 Should the key be in the ON position when pumping the pedal while you bleed?
No, doesnt matter. Engine needs to be off though.
once the pedal has been pumped, held down, and the bleeder closed… after the person in the car lets of the pedal when the bleeder is closed, should they pump the pedal to re-build the pressure before opening the bolt and pressing again?
Pump, pump, pump, hold pedal down, open valve to drain, drain until the pedal bottoms out, hold pedal on the floor, close valve. Pump, pump, pump, hold pedal down, open valve to drain, drain until the pedal bottoms out, hold pedal on the floor, close valve - Repeat until fluid runs clean.
If you are completely replacing the fluid…
When replacing the fuild, I always bleed the calipers until it runs clean (same color as new fluid) and then move onto the next caliper and bleed until it runs clean, etc.
The reason why I was thinking you might need the key ON is because ther brake booster takes power then and the pedal is easier to push. I guess it doesn’t matter.
But, aren’t you supposed to not let the pedal hit the floor? And don’t you open the bleeder screw BEFORE you push and hold the pedal down?
Thanks for the help SE-37K… i know this was an old thread.
I’m going to call around to PepBoys, AdvanceAuto, AutoZone, and NAPA to ask if any of them carry ATE Super Blue… if not just get the Valvoline Synpower since a lot of people on this reccomend it.
For getting some clear tubing to bleed… Is the diameter that will fit on the OEM bleeder screw nipple 1/4" I.D. ?
I’ve used the Valvoline once, and could never get the pedal to firm up. I now use Castrol GTLMA even though the wet/dry boiling points for the Valvoline is higher (503/343 vs. 450/311)
I used a quart. I guess it depends on how dirty your fluid is. If it’s been a long time, since it’s bee done, I would probably get 2 liters, just to have a little extra.
I dont know know what is considered dirty (because i dont know what the fluid looks like new) and how old it is as I bought the car used 4 months ago. Right now the fluid is brown. I guess I will order 2 liters of Super Blue.
EDIT: Will 2 Liters DEFINITELY be enough for a complete flush (I stop bleeding when I see COMPLETE blue on all calipers)? If not and 3 Liters are necessary… I will just get some Vavoline SynPower or Castrol GTLMA.
I don’t know how much brake fluid is in the whole system. I’m sure you should be able to find out, maybe in the helms or haynes manual. All, I know is that I went through a quart. I’m sure you don’t need more than 2 liters.
Originally posted by SE-37K
[B]I bleed my brakes all the time and we always hold the pedal to the floor.
Only if you are using a speed bleeder of some sort. [/B]
It’s because you bleed your brakes all the time that it’s OK to let the pedal go to the floor. You probably don’t let the fluid get real brown, and you do it often enough. The Brown color is moisture (ie water) in the brake fluid. by not using the full pedal travel for a long period of time and allowing the fluid to turn brown the inside of the master cylinder can become corroded and contaminated on the normally unused portion. Some brake fluid is often many years old. I know when I bought my car the fluid was really brown. Using the “all the way to the floor” technique I ended up replacing the MC two days later. The more often you change the fluid and allow the pedal to travel to the floor the less likely it will be an issue.
Update, I just bled them yesterday and I only used 2/3 of a 1 Litre can of ATE Super Blue. I bled each caliper till I saw straight blue… and the resovoir is up to the full line. All with 2/3 of a litre.
try to have the t00bing SUBMERGED in a bottle of brake fluid…meaning…when u pump it up and hold it u get someone to bleed the fluid…then u tighten the bleeder screw back up…as ur pumping it up AGAIN there is a slight chance u mite get air in the system so thats y the t00b is SUBMERGED in fluid…instead of having a chance of takin in air again it’ll be fluid…
Originally posted by 93Teg44444 It’s because you bleed your brakes all the time that it’s OK to let the pedal go to the floor. You probably don’t let the fluid get real brown, and you do it often enough. The Brown color is moisture (ie water) in the brake fluid. by not using the full pedal travel for a long period of time and allowing the fluid to turn brown the inside of the master cylinder can become corroded and contaminated on the normally unused portion. Some brake fluid is often many years old. I know when I bought my car the fluid was really brown. Using the “all the way to the floor” technique I ended up replacing the MC two days later. The more often you change the fluid and allow the pedal to travel to the floor the less likely it will be an issue.
Same thing here… My winter teg just developped a sinking brakes problem after bleeding the brakes… MC replacement time…