You’ll never see it 
Not to completely change the subject… But are you using OEM bushings on your setup? Or did you order the ES/Prothane master bushing set? I’ve been contemplating on which route I should take.
edit
Reading pwns me… You’re getting HardRace stuff. Nice.
I just haven’t seen anyone actually selling the PIC/Suja ones for our car.
As far as I can tell, the 94+ non type R integra stuff should fit fine in the rear and the front inner lower control arm bushing but that the CRX shock bushing should work. There was a thread from a long time ago where someone talked about just buying the whole DC kit but they never came back and said what worked.
I actually found the Energy Suspension front sway bar and steering rack bushings that I never put in my first Integra 10 years ago, so I’ll use those there. Front upper arm bushings will just be OEM. Whenever one of those ball joints goes out (and it will) I’ll just replace both arms with new OEM ones. I will probably bite the bullet and get the Mugen shifter bushings to go with a new shift rod and then if the EF hardrace radius rod bushings work, I’ll use those and if they don’t I’ll either look into the customized EF spherical bushings made by Progress that I saw Colin mention in a thread a while back. OEM rear trailing arm bushing.
In addition to the shop I mentioned earlier (who I hope follows through on helping me out), the US Hardrace distributor actually got back to me with prices as well. Below was their response to my inquiry. Part number 7012 is complete rear factory-style endlinks and is not included in the DC Integra kit:
What sucks ass is that the entire DC kit is $250. That includes the trailing arms (which sell for $75 separately) the compensator arms (which sell for $65) and the other two bushings for the front control arms ($60 for all 4 front control arm bushings).
So, basically the prices they list for me below absolutely suck.
[I]Thank you for your interested in our products.
Here are some prices.
Rear Lower Control Arm Bushings: 94-01 Acura Integra (non Type-R) (6 bushings total) $45
Rear Upper Control Arm Bushings: 94-01 Acura Integra (4 bushings total) $45
Rear Toe Arm (Compensator Arm) Bushings: 94-01 Acura Integra (4 bushings total) $45
Front Lower Control Arm (SHOCK ABSORBER) Bushing: 94-01 Acura Integra (2 bushings total)** $50
94-01 Integra (part number 7012) $45
Front Lower Control Am (INNER) Bushing: 88-91 JDM CRX (2 bushings total) not yet available by itself
Front Tension Rod (Radius Rod) Bushings: 88-91 JDM CRX (4 bushings total) - not yet available by itself
We currently have no plan of putting a DA bushing kit together. But since you have mentioned it, we will take it into consideration.
Let us know if you have any other questions.[/I]
The ES Bushing Set is $160, straight from ES… but I don’t think that includes the RTA stuff. Some people complain about them squeaking… others say they have no issues… meh.
For me, the biggest deal is the installation and the possibility of having to redo it. Although I’m sure that once you do the work the first time, the ES bushings are easy to replace.
I didn’t have any squeaking with my last (ES) kit unless the temp dropped below about 50 degrees and since you don’t drive your car if it us under 65, that shouldn’t be an issue for you. ha ha.
When it did squeek, it wasn’t as bad as the “hatch squeak” that CRXs have. I drove on those bushings for 5 years or so and never maintained them so I certainly got my money out of them. I just feel like the hardrace bushings are a better product. OEM type assemblies with the same material…just a little stiffer. Sounds good to me.
You do have a point there. And hey, dont hate on my non-driving-in-sub-60 weather!!
I’ve been worried about my lower ball joints lately, and with TWO members having theirs fall apart while driving in the last week, I really need to get on replacing them. ANd it got me thinking about all the OTHER bushings on the car that are probably original stuffs with 200k miles on them… BLAH! I dont think this car will EVER be done. C’est La Vie, as they say.
Not hating. If anything, I’m giving you props. I think you forget I’m from TX; I try not to even go outside if it is less than 80.
Do you really think they just give out without warning (genuine question)? I had some vibration issues in the front of my last Integra and it was pretty simple to diagnose that it was the upper ball joint. But I’ve never replaced the bottom one.
I also wonder about lowering and range of motion. The Skunk2 balljoint used to have a range of motion issue, didn’t it?
If we guess that the distance from where the front lower control arm mounts to the body to the knuckle is 16 inches and we assume that the ball joint mounts at a 90 degree angle then if you lower the car 3 inches, you’ve taken up around 12 degrees of the allowable travel. If you’ve got 200k miles on that ball joint, stressing it like that is just going to be asking for trouble. I’m no mechanical engineer though and I don’t know what the typical range of motion of a ball joint is so I don’t know if this is a legitimate possible cause, but it is worth thinking about.