Boosting a B20

4sd4dr · July 6, 2005, 1:05am

Ok, so I plan on boosting my Integra. As of right now it has a stock B20 swap. I do not plan on tearing the engine apart other than pulling it to change out the rod bolts (and possibly bearings, rings and a slight hone) My B20 only has about 18K miles on it, other than replacing the rod bolts should I go the extra distance just for 7psi?

I also plan on buying a Full-Race kit. I need some help with choosing the correct A/R for my setup, along with cams and possibly injectors. Along with the Golden Eagle Fuel Rail and FPR. Braided SS Fuel Lines and if necessary a Walbro Intank FP (which size 190lph or 250lph). Back to injectors I know I can go with DSM 450’s, but do I really need injectors that big, I am also aware if i get too large of an injector using Hondata S100 I can tune the injectors down. As far as an EMS I plan on Hondata S100 with Boost option, along with an OBD1 conversion using a P75 as they are really easy to come by.

Goals: Daily Driving in Arizona, 92 Octane, 300 HP (if possible…), I’m shooting for maybe a 13 sec. pass on slicks…

Cliffs: Need help with choosing correct A/R for the T3/TO4E on the Full-Race Kit (.57, .60 or .61), correct size Injectors (RC - 310’s, DSM 450’s), Correct “turbo” cams (Crane, Crower…), Fuel Pump (Walbro 190 or 250),

Do any of you have any suggestions for my future setup. I realize there are a few things I have over looked. Please help me figure it out.

dave22 · July 6, 2005, 8:08am

A friend of mine is running 14psi on a BONE stock B20B in his EH2. He runs VERY low 12s (like 12.04 at 120+ mph) with slicks. He drives it daily and even delivered pizza in it for nearly a year. He isn’t easy on it at all, and it’s held up so far.

If you’ve got a B20B I’m sure it’ll have no problems handling 7psi stock. But good luck getting 300whp out of it.

I’ll ask him the specifics of his setup and get back to you.

system · July 6, 2005, 3:48pm

wow…b20 walls are so thin and its holding 14 lbs of boost…got to be fully built

system · July 6, 2005, 5:59pm

14psi on stock B20 :hmm:

4sd4dr · July 6, 2005, 6:17pm

back on topic please…

dave22 · July 6, 2005, 9:40pm

Here’s what he has to say:

friend with the STOCK B20:

I have a bone stock (including headgasket) B20b with a turbonetics t3/to4b 60-1. I am running 14lbs of boost and have been doing so for about a year (end of last july beginning of august). I have a Walbro 255 fuel pump, b&m fpr, rc 550cc injectors, and am using hondata s200 with boost option. I put down 267whp and 225wtq on the dynojet dyno that i was tuned on. And then about 8 or 9 months later went on another dynojet without changing anything and put down 255whp and 231wtq. I ran a 12.05@111 with a GSR tranny, 22" slicks, and i missed 5th gear. Swapped the GSR tranny to a LS tranny and put 24" slicks on and ran a 12.1@120 with my clutch slipping (oem replacement exedy) The only reason the clutch didnt slip before was because of my act 8.8lbs flywheel. I drive the car every day and i delivered pizzas for 9 months putting 50-100 miles on the car a day. None of which were easy miles. The car is still running now with a little bit of lost power and i believe its from my turbo going bad (bought used). Although one cylinder is a bit low on compression (190, 180, 180, 145). The B20b walls are not all that much thiner than a B18. Just the inner two cylinders (2,3) are joined and people say they are weak because if one moves it will cause the other to move. In the end your cylinder walls should never move. In fact the weak point on a B20b are the rod bolts.

If you plan on taking your motor apart to change out your rod bolts atleast put in good set of piston rings. The motor should be fine to run 7lbs bone stock. Good luck hitting 300whp though. And if thats your goal i would go with 650cc or 750cc injectors maybe higher. You can always tone an injector down.

4sd4dr · July 6, 2005, 9:53pm

Here’s what he has to say:

friend with the STOCK B20:

I have a bone stock (including headgasket) B20b with a turbonetics t3/to4b 60-1. I am running 14lbs of boost and have been doing so for about a year (end of last july beginning of august). I have a Walbro 255 fuel pump, b&m fpr, rc 550cc injectors, and am using hondata s200 with boost option. I put down 267whp and 225wtq on the dynojet dyno that i was tuned on. And then about 8 or 9 months later went on another dynojet without changing anything and put down 255whp and 231wtq. I ran a 12.05@111 with a GSR tranny, 22" slicks, and i missed 5th gear. Swapped the GSR tranny to a LS tranny and put 24" slicks on and ran a 12.1@120 with my clutch slipping (oem replacement exedy) The only reason the clutch didnt slip before was because of my act 8.8lbs flywheel. I drive the car every day and i delivered pizzas for 9 months putting 50-100 miles on the car a day. None of which were easy miles. The car is still running now with a little bit of lost power and i believe its from my turbo going bad (bought used). Although one cylinder is a bit low on compression (190, 180, 180, 145). The B20b walls are not all that much thiner than a B18. Just the inner two cylinders (2,3) are joined and people say they are weak because if one moves it will cause the other to move. In the end your cylinder walls should never move. In fact the weak point on a B20b are the rod bolts.

If you plan on taking your motor apart to change out your rod bolts atleast put in good set of piston rings. The motor should be fine to run 7lbs bone stock. Good luck hitting 300whp though. And if thats your goal i would go with 650cc or 750cc injectors maybe higher. You can always tone an injector down.

[/quote]

are there any pictures or anything for htis, I would like to see his setup.

system · July 6, 2005, 11:19pm

these are pics of my man mikes hatch that is running(the guy in question). he is the one who convinced me to run a stock b20 setup and i am on a turbonetics t3/to4e 60/63trim on 14lbs daily. so dont say it can be done.

system · July 6, 2005, 11:30pm

here are pics of my b20 turbo teg

and the turbo i am using

4sd4dr · July 7, 2005, 12:28am

ahh thanks man.

Da9tegra · July 7, 2005, 1:03am

lol i have a pair of those front wheels in my garage to bad they are 13’s lol and wont fit the teggy, but those are some super lightweight wheels

bad2genteg · July 7, 2005, 3:19am

wow makes me wanna go turbo now…

system · July 7, 2005, 8:04am

Makes me wanna get a B20B very hard to find over here in New Zealand. My g/fs dad imports stuff from america might get him to find me one do you guys know what these motors sell for a round about price?

Cheers

system · July 7, 2005, 8:30am

the good thing about these motors is that sell for pretty cheap. the price ranges anywhere from $600-$850,but that is without tranny.

integra_hot · July 7, 2005, 2:34pm

does he wana sell that hatch back?? :rockon:

dave22 · July 7, 2005, 3:19pm

If the price is right I guess he might let it go, but he really loves it.

I’ll ask him.

system · July 8, 2005, 1:14am

The civic belongs to me, and how much are you willing to give me for it?

Also the hatch does not have the gold ls mesh rims anymore. They have GSR swirlies. More recent pictures:

Tchleung · July 8, 2005, 2:38am

Nice car… But those numbers are way low for 14psi on that engine on that turbo… Unless you have timing pulled majorly back. I would expect numbers like that on a mustang dyno on street simulation. Not to mention that 145 compression is 20% lower then the others which is really bad. Prolly where your power loss is coming from.

system · July 8, 2005, 8:13pm

the 145 compression is recent. The first dyno of 267whp 225wtq was on a 90+degree day on the ocean front. Also the second dyno i ran on was reading low for everyone that day because he had it set to be corrected for ohio and was in virginia. As well as the fact that i have a very conservative tune.

4sd4dr · July 9, 2005, 5:49pm

i wish my thread wouldnt have gone haywire on and on about someone elses car. i still have questions and concerns… so please help me.