what do you mean, they are answering your question you wanted to know if a b20 could handle it and here is one right here, with 250+whp, so yes apparently someone has proven it is possible although by searching you will find that the b20 is not the best chosen motor to boost because the cylinder walls are extremely thin and are more subject to cracking then somehting with a little more like the ls motor
also im pretty sure you are never going to get 300hp on 7psi aparently you cant really get it with 14psi, although he said he had a conservative tune so you very well could get 300hp out of 14psi but i highly highly doubt 7psi
I am confident you can reach 300whp on a stock B20 with a decent sized turbo and a good tune. My goal is to reach 350-400whp with a stock b20, but if i dont make it ill put pistons and rods in and i should be able to make it easily. If you get tuned properly there isnt really a reason to worry about the cylinder walls giving out. Granted no motor is going to last forever though.
A good size turbo, a good tune and youll be happy. My problem is finding a good hondata tuner. The guy that tuned my car has me running way too rich, owes me a set of msd wires, and now has closed his shop and will not return my calls. Guess I have to kill him now
i’m running a b20b on 8 1/2 lbs. with the sc61 and pulled off 230 to the wheels. that wasn’t even on the hondata, that is with the afc. if i pushed it up to 14 lbs. and only got 267 to the wheels, i will be seriously pissed off.
The tune is key!!! My NA B20 cracked 4,000KM after a complete rebuild. I found these nice surprises when I took the head off to replace what I thought I was just a blown head gasket:
every dyno reads different. I wasnt too impressed with the horsepower numbers but i was pleased with the numbers i recieved at a track. Plus a sc61 is a lot bigger than the turbo im running. What did you run in the 1/4 mile?
If you tune the motor correctly it will hold together. Now which system to use to tune is up to you and the tuners available in your area. I would recomend going with AEM EMS but then if you have people in your area that arent that good at tunning aem but are good with hondata then get hondata. So on and so forth. Myself i am considering getting rid of my hondata to get aem ems or sts.
HEHE, sorry, I didn’t read the entire thread. I thought it was about the B20’s reliability. As I’m sure you’re aware, it is common to have them crack. If I were to build one again, I’d resleeve it with something beefier. Mind you I think my tuner was a bit of a hack. My car never saw a dyno and I was told it was safe to drive hard on it. Live and learn.
Ps, that was using Hondata, but like previously mentioned, see what the local tuners are working with and see what results they’ve had. I only went Hondata because the shop that did my build suggested it. I think I’m going to use Uberdata on my next build simply because I found another tuner and he prefers to use that. Well that and the fact that it’s free.
nice hatchy n teg. i got a b20b4 on my teg too… shits running good too i can get high 14’s wit street slicks on stock internals just a few add ons like header catback msd n ported out ls intake… im planning to put a turbo but i think ima use the method i been reading up on… puttin the turbo on the back so i dont have to use a intercooler n run a separate oil pump for it… does ne one kno if a gas pump will pump oil through it ?..
thats gotta be the stupid post ever. im sorry, that rear mount turbo is idiotic, IMO.
Can we please keep on topic. Let me clearify, I never asked if the B20 would or could handle boost, I never asked how much. If you think I did, please show me where I said it.
Im still trying to figure out what size turbo to use to get to my HP goal. BTW its: 250-275CHP (200-225 WHP, correct?)… whats what im lookin for. 1 13 sec pass is all Im asking for.
“every dyno reads different. I wasnt too impressed with the horsepower numbers but i was pleased with the numbers i recieved at a track. Plus a sc61 is a lot bigger than the turbo im running. What did you run in the 1/4 mile?”
I haven’t been able to run it yet because my damn afc is fried. i didn’t find this out until after i got it tuned. the tuner couldn’t figure out what was going on because the car would run fine and then when it hit boost the check engine light comes on and puts it into limp mode. that is why i have the hondata s200 sitting in the front passenger seat, waiting to be installed and tuned.
oh u have seen than right… you gotta be smarter than the car or the turbo your working on… do most people do their own work here or do they send it out for some shop to swap their motors n to install a simple turbo… everyone puts everythin in here like is so complicated… i guess ill be the first person on this site to do that turbo set up n than ill let everyone kno if it suck or it doesnt…my best be it cant suck the way it works it should work beautifully… i all ready read up on it n it has less lag than the turbo right in front of the motor cuz their is no heat on it… but we’ll see,… plus race cars are “race cars” not street cars
FYI, I decided to just get the b20 tuned as is right now. A friend from California will be tuning it. Basically I plan on buying a socketed PM6 or getting my PR4 socketed so I can have a new chip burned and installed. Along with datalogging as well…
now, onto my other questiosn.
What size injectors
What NONVTEC cams to look into. I understand I need to look into “overlap”, but Im not familiar with what that is exactly, so someone explain.
What Fuel Pump… DSM 190 (plus rewire), 255 Walbro… etc…
And last but not least the AR of the T3/T40E… Ive heard .57, Ive heard .47… please enlighten me a tad. Im reading about how to read compressor maps and such, but it’s not making sense to me…
These are the only questions that are still lurking in my head, so please help.
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