Do you have any idea how expensive OEMs are? They are like $71.00 a piece. Thats a lot for a rotor. You can get PowerSlots or Rotoras for that much which aren’t soft like the Brembos.
Of course I know how much they are. For something I know will last ~100k I am willing to pay for it. If you don’t want to go OEM, then don’t. It is your car so do what you want. I was simply pointing out the value of OEM parts. Does it cost more?.. yes. On the other hand it usually lasts longer.
Hm you have a point there … My OEM rotors lasted >100k miles. I just put Brembos on the front a couple of thousand miles ago and am going to put Duralast ones on the rear this Saturday… I guess I’ll just have to wait and see how long these products last in comparison to OEM.
Go with OEM. I’ve tracked my GSR with brembo, some no name, and OEM rotors and OEM is by far superior. Yes they are expensive, but are better than all of your choices. Brembos warp VERY easily. I will never use them again. Before my car was stolen, I was looking to upgrade my rear setup to an EP3 Civic rear setup (rear BBK kit), but if your not looking to spend some serious money on your brakes, I would highly recommend OEM rotors.
For those who claim that Brembos warp very easily – what kind of pads did you guys use?? I think the pads play a very important role in rotor warp.
By the way, the metal on the rotor does not actually deform as “warped” suggests – the reason rotors are resurfaced when you change brake pads is because the surface of the rotor contains brake pad material. Disc brakes do not work by generating friction between pad and metal – the pads deposit a layer of material on the rotor and thus it is the friction between the brake pads and brake pad material that is deposited on the rotor.
Rotors don’t warp! Noob!
So where does all the rotor metal go?
I remember the “warped rotor” statements that Ben Ogle originally posted. I dont really believe it though. When I worked at honda, I looked into this and there is actual metal warpage. I saw Civic Si rotors on the machine to be turned and they were warped to hell, to a point that they were unresurfaceable. I understand about the braking material on the rotor causing uneven buildup, but after closely examining warp rotors I have to differ.
And about your question about pads. I first used OEM pads with the brembos, and then I used Hawk. EDIT: I take that back, with the GSR, the rears were not Hawk, they were EBC.
Duy, 
fucker! 
You only lose the rotor metal to resurfacing, which effectively shaves off a thin slice of the rotor to expose new metal to the pads.
As for Preston’s argument about seeing actual warped rotors, perhaps rotors can warp but I believe that this does not happen quite as often as people think.
I’ve said this before, but I think ceramic pads are particularly good at keeping rotors in good shape.
No argument here xep. I thought we were having a mature debate. Anyway, when you are doing spirited driving, you are most likely over heating the rotors, the metals natural tendencies is to expand. Where you get the warping is when you have different temperatures around the circumference of the rotor, thus the rotor is cooling at different rates, and shrinking causing uneven surfaces. Yes, a typical 44 year old mother is probably not going to warp her rotors, but when you are on the track and doing continuous heavy braking, you will get warpage.
We were and still are. I didn’t say that we were arguing. Perhaps my choice of words was wrong here. According to my dictionary, an argument is “a fact or assertion offered as evidence that something is true”. Perhaps “assertion” might have been a better choice here.
OK
Shit, I wonder why I keep having to buy new rotors :think:
all these years and I still don’t know how what stops my car.
It is true that you “can” damage the surface of a rotor. This is generally done by retards that put “race” pads on their street car that they take to the track once in a while. They have absolutely no understanding of how the heat ranges of different pads affects longevity and braking ability. If the pads are too aggressive for a given style of driving then you will have problems.
Rotors are designed to withstand tremendous amounts of heat. They will get red hot and still maintain their form. The extreme thickness variations you see are the result of a rotor surface littered with uneven deposits like a mine field. Once the metal is transformed into cementite it takes on totally different characteristics when it comes to expansion and contraction. Thickness variations do not equate to “warped rotors”.
If rotors warped so easy, then you would hear you favorite driver (NASCAR, INDY, etc…) giving and interview on pit lane after a crash: “Well, you know, we were running real good until those rotors warped and I couldn’t hold onto the wheel anymore, but we’ll get em next week”.
You know, come to think of it, from what I’ve seen typical mothers wear their brakes pretty badly. They tend to use the brakes too much =P Track driving is definitely going to wear the brakes a lot more though. I think I’m pretty good on brake wear though, I downshift a lot.
How often do people have to change their brake pads here? My last set of ceramic pads lasted me 30k miles.
Rotors last two pad cycles. Each pad set lasts two oil changes - 10K miles.
Been there, done that 
I think that rotor is warping!
My next rotor