installing the safe is really a piece of cake. if you have done some stereo wiring headlight wiring etc it should be a breeze. it’s a lil cramped but the results will make ya happy =)
Originally posted by LODOSS
installing the safe is really a piece of cake. if you have done some stereo wiring headlight wiring etc it should be a breeze. it’s a lil cramped but the results will make ya happy =)
Cool, does it come with insructions? I’ve done quite a bit of wiring. So hopefully it won’t be too hard.
it hsould have a book with all the different ecus on there u just have to look at the b16a diagram and use that to wire it up.
Originally posted by LODOSS
it hsould have a book with all the different ecus on there u just have to look at the b16a diagram and use that to wire it up.
Schweeet. Thanks a lot.
So if you install a s-afc, it taps into your ecu. Does this mean that there is no need to get an upgraded ECU chip?
Mike
the SAFC can only give false readings of the manifold pressure. in theory you can pretty much do everything with just that sensor but is impossible to calculate. so SAFC basically is just used for air and fuel tuning but you won’t be able to get to modify the true 3d map of fuel/timing. so no its not the same as a ecu upgrade cause the ecu upgrade not only changes the fuel but also the timing.
however you have to understand that the ecu upgrade gives a set fuel and ignition map and if you change something on your car then you might of decrease the performance of it in some ways. so basicaly a SAFC is something you can use at your will so anytime you put something new in like an intake you can prob increase the fuel a lil etc… so the SAFC is more versatile for mods while it does not allow a full potential gain as the ECU upgrades would do.
So basically the BEST bet is to get a good ecu AND the safc and then tune cam gears and your safc together, correct?
Mike
i would just skip the ecu upgrade. just get teh SAFC and cam gears and you will be set. i also highly suggest a fuel pressure regulator (B&M command for around 50, cheaper on e-bay sometimes) and get a fuel gauge (i think a b&m is 30, not sure). i if you want some GOOD if not very very good fuel control, FPR and a SAFC go well together…
If you don’t have any other plans for your engine and only plan on tuning your car once, the Hondata s100 will be the most effective in optimizing your fuel and timing maps. In fuel tuning ability, the Hondata has a much higher resolution then a piggyback unit’s 12 points of so. The price is also about $50 cheaper.
But, there has to be qualified tuner in your area and you can’t make any ECU modifications yourself.
Otherwise, as stated, the FPR and SAFC combination has proven to be very effective with moderate cams.
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Tom
hmm nice to have this thread revived.
WHat’s everyone’s opinion on SAFC vs Hondata s100(i still gotta check this out). I’ve seen some really good results from using an SAFC on some 403’s, it’d be amazing if you do even better with a hondata.
What exactly is so much better? Higher resolution? What’s this mean?
This is the best explaination I’ve seen.
And check g2ic.com
http://www.g2ic.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=15729
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Tom
pretty simple, I’m OBD 0, no Hondata for me, I guess an SAFC will have to do…
What does OBD 0 signifiy?
Mike
Less pesky emissions stuff to get in the way…
And no Hondata.
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Tom
Alright, i’m bringin this one back from the dead…
Would anyone suggest running 403s with no fuel control for a while until i could afford a safc? or just buy em, let em chill in my room, and install the 403s and safc at the same time
What about not using adjustable gears, it’ll run fine, jsut not as much power right? :think:
Originally posted by Devlins 91LS
[B]Alright, i’m bringin this one back from the dead…
Would anyone suggest running 403s with no fuel control for a while until i could afford a safc? or just buy em, let em chill in my room, and install the 403s and safc at the same time
What about not using adjustable gears, it’ll run fine, jsut not as much power right? :think: [/B]
Bringin’ back from the dead is right! 
Anyways, I was in your situation about a year and a half ago. I was running 403’s with an Apexi AFC and an “ls RACE” ECU chip, but in all honesty, without a dyno it won’t cut you any hard edge numbers. It’s more for a fine tuning adjustment; get the cams, throw them in and run them.
As far as the adjustable cam gears are concerned: cam gears should be used as a dyno tool; not measured by the ‘seat of your pants’. I’ve known people that have tried adjusting cam gears to what “feels” fast, and on the dyno gaining +1 horsepower, and LOSING 4 or 5 pounds of torque in the process. Leave the stock gears in until you can get adjustable units, dyno, and adjust accordingly.
Get your cams installed, screw the AFC and cam gears until you can afford them WITH dyno tuning.
Originally posted by real9999
And no Hondata.
Who cares? there is ghettodyne and its free.
Ben
I wouldn’t exactly call Ghettodyne free…
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Tom
ok, so its $70 for the burner and burner software. So what?
Ben
what’s ghettodyne? some sort of ecu program fro obd0’s?
do i really want to install something in my car, with ghetto in the name?