i plan on doing my ls/vtec conversion myself, and i was worried about snapping off bolts, stripping bolts when taking everything apart, and then putting it all back together.
so my question is, should i be concerned? or as long as i’m careful is everything not going to fall apart in my hands?
i realize that all engines are different, but i’m just wondering overall, do these aluminum blocks get weak?
and also, what type of torque wrench is suggested? how many ft/lbs ??
no worries as far removing bolts, just be careful. get a craftsman torque wrench. get one that starts at 10ft/lbs.
jus be sure to bag and label things as you remove them. taking it apart is not the hard part… its the putting it back together part that will come to haunt you after your done.
and you will need a torque wrench that measures inch pound for some of the smaller nuts/bolts
Originally posted by Speeddaddy
[B]jus be sure to bag and label things as you remove them. taking it apart is not the hard part… its the putting it back together part that will come to haunt you after your done.
and you will need a torque wrench that measures inch pound for some of the smaller nuts/bolts [/B]
i second all that advice. Taking everything apart is easy (i recently dissassembled my b17). I’ve yet to put it back together, but i’m sure its going to be more challenging. and DEFINITELY put everything in bags and label the bags. I currently have a huge box full of bags of stuff i took off the motor. If i hadn’t bagged everything putting it together for someone like me who has never done it before would be VERY difficult.
oh, and make sure you’ve got a helms manual… its VERY handy.
i’ve been looking at torque wrenches on ebay, and i was looking at the snap on ones, are all snap ons good? or are there different models that are just crappy wrenches relabeled with the snap on name?
thx for the bagging advice…
If its real snapon, they are the best. I personally hate them, because when I was a young aspiring mechanic, I got into huge debt with tools/box from them. Now I work with computers, make 5 times more and my company pays for any tools I want.
for a torque wrench, get the beam style, not the clicker because they arent as accurate.
Originally posted by 2simplex
for a torque wrench, get the beam style, not the clicker because they arent as accurate.
beam style? what’s that like? when you say clicker, you mean the type where the handle clicks when its at the specified torque?
my dad’s torque wrench is a snap-on one that clicks when its torqued, i love it!
Mmmm Snap On. Good if you got the bills. And its a bitch trying to find one of those damn trucks (same with mac). At least if the craftsman breaks you can take it to any sears. But snap on wrenches feel so good…
Originally posted by Spitfire
Mmmm Snap On. Good if you got the bills. And its a bitch trying to find one of those damn trucks (same with mac). At least if the craftsman breaks you can take it to any sears. But snap on wrenches feel so good…
yeah, the rest of my pop’s tools are craftsman… i love that warranty. They don’t even inquire as to how you broke it. I’v broken 2 1/2" breaker bars in the past couple months (of course thats because i was using a cheater bar and standing on the end of it, lol). and they just keep giving me new ones.
the clicker’s [the one that you set with the handle] arent that accurate due to all the intricate parts inside. and you should get them calibrated from time to time. and sometimes they can give off a false click depending on the torque you put ont it, be it sustained or break away [i forgot the word]. but the other torque wrench is called the dual beam torque wrench. if you see a really cheap looking torque wrench with a needle on one beam and numbers going from left to right near the handle, thats the beam style. they’re pretty expensive for some good ones. all this i learned in school not too long ago so just wanted to share with yall.
Originally posted by 2simplex
the clicker’s [the one that you set with the handle] arent that accurate due to all the intricate parts inside. and you should get them calibrated from time to time. and sometimes they can give off a false click depending on the torque you put ont it, be it sustained or break away [i forgot the word]. but the other torque wrench is called the dual beam torque wrench. if you see a really cheap looking torque wrench with a needle on one beam and numbers going from left to right near the handle, thats the beam style. they’re pretty expensive for some good ones. all this i learned in school not too long ago so just wanted to share with yall.
interesting, i had always thought the opposite. i’d seen those beam type ones and always thought they looked really cheap and inacurate. guess looks can be deceiving.