definitely use longer bolts.
anybody know the threads/length of the bolts? I wanna add more washers.
did anyone notice that the upper bolt hole wouldnt readily accept the entire bolt purchased from pep boys? i take it has something to do with the smooth end of the bolt like 91IntegGS lathed. the lower bolt takes the new one perfectly. since i had to keep the upper stock bolt i was limited to adding only 3 washers. well safely that is
Teg Tips: Rear Camber
So I was reading the Teg tips section, and I read a thing about correcting rear camber by adding washers, and possibly lengthening the bolts…
here is where my question comes in…
In the article, he sez his car is dropped 2", and he added 1/8" of space to shim it out. So does anybody know what kind of degree of camber would be there? if I have 0.75 - 0.8 degrees, how much should I shim it out? Will I need the new bolts, or are the ones provided long enough? If anybody has any info, or a similar setup, please post up or drop me an email… integra505@hotmail.com
Thanx, L8rz
Unfortunately, I don’t have a “washer-to-degree” formula for using this camber trick… but what springs do you have? and how low is the drop?
I have Neuspeed Race springs which have a drop of 2.25", and I used 2 washers (4 total on each wheel), and I’m still probably about 1 degree off, but MUCH, MUCH better off than before… I’d add a washer or two more, but I’d most likely need the longer bolts. BY THE WAY, anyone here know where to get the longer bolts??? The local hardware store doesn’t carry anything that looks as strong…
I’m not too sure how much you would need to shim out but you don’t need to worry too much about the rear. since most of the work load is in the front tires, they will wear much quicker than the rear. in the four months that i lowered my car with no camber correction, the front tires were completely bald on the inside while the rear were not even half as bad. i got coilovers on mine so im not too sure how many inches it went down but im thinking somewhere from 2.5in to 2.75in. now i got engalls camber kit on the front with the washers on the rear. i installed everything myself but had a minor problem with the front right. i cant remember how many washers i used on each side but i’m thinking it was about 4 or 5 with the stock bolt. i can still see some negative camber on the rear tires but the tread wear is almost as good as stock with pretty even wear across the whole tire and not just the inside. the front however are still at -1.25 left and -1 on the right, but that was almost a year ago so i need to take it back in to have them check.
put 3 washers ther cause the car is lowered 2"
I am running Neuspeed Sport Springs, and they dropped my car around 1.75", with 0.8 degrees of camber. Anyone have the formula for this?
Are you guys stating these degrees after or before dropping your car? It makes a difference in determining how many washers to add. I’m lowered on Neuspeed Race springs 2"-2¼" and after putting 4 washers per bolt (8 per side), my alignment was corrected to 0.1 and 0.2 degrees. Any more than 1 or 2 washers max a bolt, I recommend longer Grade-8 bolts (10x1¼x40).
I bought that kit off someone here at g2ic and have neuspeed race springs too… mine came out perfect…
HOW MANY WASHERS CAN YOU PUT ON A STOCK BOLT.
Those of you saying how many washers you used need to specify the thickness of them. I’m lowered about 3" on GC’s and I used 4 washers size 3/8" per bolt (16 total). I got new 17mm Grade 8 bolts from NAPA and they worked perfectly. So basically I adjusted my camber +1½", what that calculates into degrees I do not know.
someone is offering a kit? hook it up!!!
also, the 0.8 degrees is after the drop… I have no idea how that would convert to inches.
Thanx…
anyone??? I saw one on ebay, but I’m not about to pay $25 ($15 for the kit, $10 for shipping) for a bag of washers…
Originally posted by integra505
anyone??? I saw one on ebay, but I’m not about to pay $25 ($15 for the kit, $10 for shipping) for a bag of washers…
heh…it was probally mine. Buy since you have a g2 heres what you do. Go buy 4-10x1.25 mm bolts and 3 washers for each bolt. Just get ones that are longer then the stock ones. Or email me friday @ steve_dooley@dca.ca.gov and Ill email you the step by step instructions that I was putting in my kit.
rear camber reading
hey guys, anyone knows the rear camber reading on our car?? I think the range should be between +.3 Degrees and down to -1.3Degress but I’m not sure. After I put the washers I have -.9 degrees on one side and -1.2 on the other!! I will add another washer to the side with more camber… do u recon -.9 is enough? every one of those little washers I have adds about 0.3~0.4 degrees postitive to the camber.
Thanks
first how can you tell… just wondering i been wanting to do that too… do you just put in washers and look at it by eye or do you have someone professional take a look at it
i just eyeball it heh. you cant adjust toe or caster i dont think so you just want it straight enough to not wear the tires. been fine for years.
hey guys, come on!!! I went to the tire shop and asked for a reading only!!! They put the car up, make the readings and print it out for me. They charge 8 US$ for it!!! So I know how my toe and camber is… 
you should be more concerned about toe in and toe out more than camber. having your toe out of spec causes the tires to wear out more quickly than how much negative camber you have.
“Toe is the turning in or out(parallelism) of the wheels. The actual amount of toe setting is normally only a fraction of an inch. The purpose of toe-in(or out) specification is to ensure parallel rolling of the wheels. Toe-in also serves to offset the small deflections of the steering support system which occur when the vehicle is rolling forward.
Changing the toe setting will radically affect the overall feel of the steering behavior of the car under breaking,tire wear and fuel econmony. Excessive toe(in or out) causes excessive drag or scrubbing on the tires.”
the last sentence is what you should be concerned about.
on a correction note:toe is adjustable on all honda/acura’s. for the front, you adjust the tie-rods. and for the rear i believe it was the compensator arm, its the arm in front of the trailing arm bushing(correct me if i’m wrong on this one).