ecu clips please help me

how do u know which ecu clips are what a,b,c,d im running 94 gsr p72 in my 92 g2 and i need to see if my knock sensor is wired right. i took ecu out today my ecu has 3 clips and how do i know which clip is d clip because knock sensor is d3 pin what color wire should be coming off of it thanx i hope someone can help

if you are looking at the ecu, the d plugs into the socket all the way on the right. The knock sensor wire will be the third one in from the left side, on the top. (looking from the back of that plug, making sure it’s rightside up)

im running my stock b18a1 92 harness if that has anything to do with it.

also do 92 tegs even have a knock sensor ???

when the ecu is mounted with sheiled off the d clip would be the one farest away from the pass. seat correct???

also when looking at d3 pin which im tring to find if the ecu is mounted on floor its the top pin going left-right standing by pass door

if anyone has anydiagrams that show this to clear this up it would really help me out thanx pictures work better for me

Yes, your harness has a lot to do with it. Your harness does NOT have a knock sensor wire in it at all, you need to add that. The only way you would have one is if you had a gsr (with b17a motor). Vtec motors are the only ones that Honda put the knock sensor on, therefor you need to add it to correctly run that gsr motor in your car. Yes, if the ecu is mounted in the car, I believe d will be closest to the firewall, or like you said furthest from the pass seat. d3 will be on the top row, third one in, counting from left to right (that is with the harness plugged into the ecu). Your harness should currently have NO wire in d3, unless someone else already put one in.

thanx for ur help well when i get home from work i will havre to check it out, also my cel doesnt stay on it comes on and then goes off when i turn car off if it was wired wrong wouldnt it be on all the time. because right now its only going on sometimes and ill check wiring maybe it has a loose connection thanx for ur help

ok looked at d clip today and im still a little confuesed are the pins that are on bottom of clip like 2,4,6,etc and top like 1,3,5, becuase theres a group of two wires for each pin in a line ya know what im triyn to say

anyway knock sensor for d3 is blank theres nothing there but why does my cel come on after 3000 rpms instead of being constantly on

any way back to knock sensor i reset ecu and all codes were gone i drove my car on highway as soon as i hit 3000 rpms cel was on checked codes when i got home code 23

Does that help at all? Should make things pretty clear I would think.

Also the reason that your CEL doesn’t come on until after 3000rpm is bc that is when the knock sensor starts registering its readings and comparing them. Simply put, a knock sensor measures engine noise. It takes a noise reading at idle, and the ECU stores that. Then it takes a ready at (and this is generic) 2000-3000rpm, and compares that reading with the stored idle reading. In fact, you, and the knock sensor, can’t tell the difference between normal engine noise and knocking above 4000 RPM.

If knock is detected, your ECU will retard your timing.

Lol I know you didn’t really need to, or want to know all that, but hey now you know how it works. So check your wiring and connectors and all that good shit :up:

– Kevin

thanx this makes it perfectly clear thanx so much

No prob man glad I could help.

– Kevin

why would cel only come on when i go over 3000rpms if it was wasnt wired at all then how come cel just doesnt stay on when i turn car on all the time

ok well today i got some old clips off of another teg at junkyard any way how the hell do u get the pins out of the ecu clips there a pain well any info will surely help thanx

I tried explaining to you about the knock sensor thing. So let me simplify it like this. At around 3000 rpm, your ECU is expecting to see a reading from the knock sensor. Since you don’t have it hooked up, it doesn’t see the reading. Thus, the CEL when you hit 3000 rpm. You don’t throw the check engine light immediatly bc your ECU is seeing that “no reading” as the intitial (no) knock reading. Or at least that is how I would assume it goes. It makes sense none the less. Sorry if that sounds rude, it’s not meant to be like that. HTH.

As for getting the pins out, the real way would be to have a special little tool that you can insert in there and gently pull them out from behind. Otherwise best option is a small flathead screwdriver, as I have found. Good luck with it.

– Kevin

thanx for info as well as pin help hopefully car wont be so slow at lower rpms because of this knock sensor when its hooked up right my mpg on my teg just intake exhaust and b18c1 its at best 19mpg its usally lower

does anyone have a pic of a knock sensor all i know is it located on the back of the block a pic would surely help

Does anyone search anymore?.. :frowning:

Went to google, typed in knock sensor (under images), 1st page results, 5th pic…nice pics and website with description. Maybe I’m just grumpy cause it was a long day at Acura today and I’m tired. Sorry

– Kevin :slight_smile:

what is CEL???

i don’t know what the “CEL” is and was a curious party reading the forum

CEL = Check Engine Light. Also called MIL (Malfunction Indicator Lamp). Has more names too. Comes on when your vehicle (specifically engine/emissions controls systems) has a problem, malfunction, etc.


thanx for pic do u think i could get to it from under my car if i reached up