Electrical short?!?! HEADACHE!

ALright , I bought my car about 2 months ago after it had been repo’d from this mexican cat. He had previously had a system in it , but all that was left was the worst CD player in the history of the world. This G2 being my dream car , I immedeately started removing all the old amp/speaker/Cd wires. After all this is said and done , I had capped off all the older wires and everything should have been lovely. Here is the real problem. SInce I had bought the car , everytime I would step on the brakes , the head/dash/dome lights would dim. This may be a different problem altogether…

So , slowly my electrical systems start f___in’ up. First , my dome light doesn’t work. Next , my cigarette lighter doesn’t work. Next my clock only works when my lights are off (and resets everytime thereafter). Next , my ‘door open’ light stays on , followed by my ‘trunk open’ light.

Last straw - Last night my car doesn’t start. I had enough power initially to get the headlights and dashlights to work , also the windshiled wipers. When I would try to turn it over , all I would get would be this crazy crackling/shocking sound. After a little while , power was drained. Being the smooth cat I am , I come inside and look it up on here right away. I read about all the problems with IACVs and such , but I didn’t have any tools to check these problems. So I just checked my dist. cap/rotor and replaced them.

Now my car starts 3 times in a row!


Have your alternator and battery checked professionally and ensure that all your ground wires are in good shape. Check the one from the neg. battery terminal to the frame below the battery tray as well as the one from the alt. bracketing.

As far as the trunk/door light open switches being tripped, I suggest testing all of your fuses as well as the door trigger switches.

Do a search for my nick and fuses and take the advice that I have given in terms of which fuses to check. Because the G2 doesn’t always have a diode in the right place, a blown fuse will sometimes (often) allow the wrong part of a circuit to be activated (this is true of the illumination and door switches for sure).

If you need schematics, let us know.

For starters, get a dmm and with the car running, look for at least 14V at the battery terminals. If you have 14-14.6V when running, your alt should be ok (it may have damaged diodes in the rectifier though that are causing DC ripple and disturbing sensitive electronics). As for the IACV idea, your problem doesn’t have anything to do with this. It sounds purely like a power delivery problem.

Also make sure your battery terminals are clean and that the cables are torqued on nice and tight.

You wan’t be able to start the car with the batt. at less than 12V (not likely anyway).

What voltage reading do you get when running? What about when the key is off??

Let us know and we’ll try to help out as best as we can.


aka neex.

good luck… my guess is two-fold… bad fuses and a worn/dead alternator…