There’s no way to tell from that photo.
The suspension should stay relatively in the correct location, I at least enough for you to hook up the radius rods - it was just a thought in case something was off in your setup, but sounds like that’s not the case.
Definitely call Full-Race and see what they say, I had to do the same thing when I was confused about EF vs DA dimensions.
[QUOTE=Colin;2149293]There’s no way to tell from that photo.
The suspension should stay relatively in the correct location, I at least enough for you to hook up the radius rods - it was just a thought in case something was off in your setup, but sounds like that’s not the case.
Definitely call Full-Race and see what they say, I had to do the same thing when I was confused about EF vs DA dimensions.[/QUOTE]
So I just got off the phone with Aaron from Full-Race and THEY DID supply me a wrong one, the DA one is suppose to be 18" 3/8".
They said they have packaged an EG/DC one for me
They will ship it to me free of charge 
Nice. Shitty you got the wrong ones, but nice you’ve gotten to the bottom of the problem! They’d better ship free of charge, shit, they should give you a discount.
Yeah, I will try to argue that I pretty much wasted the whole afternoon taking out the crossmember, fit the traction bar, then re-install the stock crossmember.
They are shipping it free of charge and they are making me keep the radius rod I got with the kit.
i noticed you had a transsmission mount on your integra with the traction bar were do you get does mounts?( i have a innovative traction bar)
The mount is part of the traction bar, it’s welded on and comes that way from Full Race. If yours does not have one, then you’d have to fab one up.
damm that sucks thanks for the info.:dozing:
You don’t really NEED a front mount if you’re using aftermarket mounts. EF’s with B series rarely ever end up running a front mount unless it’s something custom.
btw, nice to see you got a new keyboard form DA Jellie and replaced your broken one w/ the stuck caps lock key.
I just bought some new mounts for my swap i did 4 months ago and it feels like shit after i installed the traction bar that’s why i figured the front mount was needed and i was running healthy stock mounts but if you say with the aftermarket mounts will make a diffrence than ill see this weekend lol. Yea he sent me a nice keyboard.:umno:
I know a few off roaders that use them on their mud trucks. For our needs probly not needed!
its not for Kswap is it?? that heppend to me when k tuned sent mine i wanted b series and got k
[QUOTE=Ominous G2;2227907]Anybody running these on their heim joints?
http://www.sealsit.com/rodend.asp[/QUOTE]
I always thought it looked rather sketchy to have an exposed heim joint. I’ve thought about buying some and probably actually need to since I live on a dirt road… but I haven’t bit the bullet and done it, yet.
You should get them! I don’t have them and now I regret it. the heim joints on my traction bar are now really tough to move around and they make tons of noise while driving. I have always greased my joints every year, but each year it gets worse and worse. I suspect that dirt keeps building up inside. These are the joints at the control arm, the ones on the traction bar side are actually okay.
I think it has to do with the way they are positioned. Since the ones that are close to the control arm are sitting horizontally, water and dirt can built up and get inside. Anyways those seals seem cheap and easy to install, when I have time I’m probably going to change out my joints one of these days.
Does anyone know what size joints (thread size, thread pitch, inner diameter, thickness) I will need for the full race traction bars (control arm side)???
Is it possible to alter the castor with the Full Race? I installed one a while back but I only set the car down on the ground for the first time in a year tonight. Looking at the driver’s side wheel it looks like the back of the wheel is pushed towards the back of the wheel well.
You can adjust the Caster by shortening or lengthening the radius rod. Just loosen the lock nuts at each heim joint and then rotate the gold radius rod portion. Turning it one way will lengthen the total arm length, turning it the other way will shorten the arm length. When it’s set where you want it, tighten the lock nuts again (which, in my experience have a tendency to continually loosen themselves. I check these early and often).
Thanks. I actually did some more looking around today and came up with what you said. The only issue right now is to figure out how to measure that it’s in the right spot. A wheel alignment is inevitable anyways, but i’d like to get it close.
Eyeballing it will get you to the alignment shop. When I first installed mine it looked a bit strange and there was some rubbing. I made some adjustments so there was no rubbing. I still wasn’t ready for a full alignment so I set the toe/camber as close as I could on my own so it was good for some testing. After one track day of the steering being VERY heavy and with the car unable to stay stable on a smog dyno (even though it tracked straight while driving) I realized it needed further adjustment. Again, I still wasn’t ready to take the car to my alignment guy so I needed to figure something out. I know a couple stock DA’s in my neighborhood, so one morning I found one of them and took a quick measurement from the center of the axle, back to a body line. I then used that measurement to set my car. Obviously it’s still rough, but this method worked extremely well in my situation. It ended up not being adjusted for performance but it was plenty close to stock for driving around and even safe on track.
One thing I noticed when I set it by that method was that once the setting approached the measurement I took on that other car the suspension seemed to have “slack”. Sorta hard to explain, but you can “feel” when the radius rod is the right length. Rotate the aluminum piece by hand. When the rod is very short it will be “pulling” the suspension forward - this provides tension and the aluminum piece is a little harder to turn. When the rod is very long it will be “pushing” the suspension back - this again provides tension and the aluminum piece is harder to turn. Somewhere in the middle of that range there’s a spot where the aluminum piece is VERY easy to rotate, it feels as if the radius rod is neither pushing nor pulling the suspension - simply that the suspension is resting where it wants to be and the radius rod is having little effect on it’s position. I found that spot to be nearly dead on with the rough measurements I took of the stock car.
I looked up the wheelbase dimensions in the FSM and measured/eyeballed center cap to center cap to get it. Thanks for the help. I’ll let you know when I get it rolling.