well (for me anyway) my oil change time is never for JUST an oil change. i usually clean stuff, inspect stuff, mess around with stuff, maybe adjust a thing or two, maybe do something small that ive been putting off. lubing the few bushings that require lube is no big deal. adding an extra MAYBE 10 minutes to my oil change. honestly though, you can even do it at every other oil change if youre using a high quality marine grease.
im going hardrace on my integra so i dont HAVE to do the grease thing but my other car is getting poly since going oem is silly and the next best thing is in the 1000s of dollars range and you require a mazda competition account to get them.
that just how i feel about it…
also, every 3 months? negative… i change my oil every 3000km regardless of how long it takes me to get there. ive never known anyone to have their oil change cycle based on calender days…
I never had a problem with my ES bushings. If you get the black ones and grease them properly during installation you shouldn’t need to re-grease often, if at all. Mine were on my car for almost 10yrs and I never re-greased them and they never squeaked. Of course if you’re daily driving the car in bad weather then that would affect things. My car was daily driven but it was here in CA. The supplied grease, is grease, lol, so it’s hydrophobic. Even washing it off of your hands is difficult, so it’s not going to come off on it’s own very easily at all.
And if you’re changing your oil every 3k miles you’re crazy. Even crazier if you’re changing it every 3k km’s. I change the oil in my Subaru every 12k miles and have the oil analysis results to prove that this is perfectly safe for the engine (thinking about trying a 14k mi interval next time). I first used Mobil1 full synthetic and have since then switched to Green Earth Technologies “G Oil”. The “3000 mile oil change” is something that is based off of zero fact and I personally believe it was created by oil and/or car companies in order to increase revenues by getting you to change your oil more often (but this is huge speculation on my part). In some instances you’ll change it more often - for example race vehicles. And the type of oil you use also makes a difference too - synthetic will last longer than conventional. Honda recommends you change your oil every 7k miles iirc (check your owners manual) and that is with conventional oil. If you’re changing your oil more than that and don’t have some special reason for doing so then you’re wasting money, time and most importantly our earth’s natural resources. I encourage everyone to do some research before following all the sheep. And don’t trust the internet, send your oil to Blackstone Laboratories to get analyzed, then you’ll have proof you can trust. I spend the money for synthetic oil and analysis every oil change, so each oil change is quite expensive. But I also only change my oil every year or so, and it’ll likely be less often now since I hardly drive the car. I did the math before and it’s financially advantageous to pay for the analysis vs just guessing as to how often you should change your oil. Getting the oil analyzed will allow you to increase your oil change interval and save money in the long run. Plus it lets you know what’s going on inside your engine. Are your bearings wearing out? Rings going bad? Small amounts of coolant getting in the oil? Air filter not doing it’s job and allowing particles to get into the oil and increase engine wear?
well in the rotary world (for the fd anyway) 3000mi oil changes are quite common actually and owning one brings along all the paranoia of doing so. i understand that rotary and piston are 2 entirely different worlds but its one of those why not type things for myself. the engine in my da runs great and doesnt smoke or show any signs of giving out. i just crept over 160K and its still going strong seeing as how thats low mileage for our motors.
i wouldnt mind doing that oil analysis just because… sounds pretty cool. my reason for doing such frequent changes is because why not… honestly. it gives me something to look forward to and it gets me under my car more often to inspect for whatever. i dont drive very much or as far in my car simply because this island is so small so it takes some time to reach 3000km so its not like im doing this super often. as far as the car goes, im not hurting anything. 50$ every 4 months or so isnt so bad. look at it like this, i take my car to the dealer for the transmission oil every other engine oil change. believe it or not, its only 36$ here for a fluid change. thats 36$ out the door. too sweet of a deal to pass up. youll spend more than that on the oil alone in america.
I still haven’t heard anything from hardrace, I don’t think they know the amount of money they will make if they release this kit. now that i have my car back I will definately buy the kit without question but still nothing
im giving up… i dont think the hardrace people are going to release the kit and we have been waiting for nothing. its whatever i guess. i sold my es kit in anticipation of the hardrace kit too. now i have to buy another one =[
This does suck, i was so interested in this kit but i guess its not happening any time soon. Atleast im not going to be driving the car any time soon so i dont have to feel the awesome worn out bushings, hopefully we can pressure then into making the damn kit already. This will be a perfect time to replace all my bushings while the car sits awaiting its fate and replacing the parts that were stolen
I’m feeling like we’ll never see it but we will see. Funny thing is if at the beginning they would have said we don’t know or no we won’t be offering a kit I would have still pieced together a kit with their EF kit and DA RTA. Now I’ll just be going with an es kit or any other company. I’ll be very hesitant to ever do business with these liars.
The DA specific kits are finally available Hopefully I will receive these soon. They will be installed on my db2. I can compare them with the ES ones on my da9. No more worn out bushing on the db2 :excite:
I think I am going to pick up a set next month for my rainy day parts stash. I am hoping they are an improvement from the es kit I have been running the last couple years.
I just had my bushings kit installed and there might be problems with the upper arm bushings and the radius rod bushings. front radius rod bushing 51381-sk7-004 and rear 51391-sk7-004. The rear one is actually different than the cone ones provided by hardrace. The upper arm bushing in the picture with the hardrace ones are prothane pn 8-217-bl. I do not believe there are oem upper arm bushings sold separately. Any one else have this problem with the upper arm and radius rods bushing provided in the hardrace kit? I have forwarded the dimensions and pics to the velocity shop that distributed the hardrace bushings. They are very helpful in trying to get this sorted out. When you need a ruler, you can’t find one :think:
Front radius rod bushing is 61mm wide and 35mm high vs hardrace 50mm wide and 28 mm high. Derek at subzero motorsports in Ontario, who installed the bushings says that the upper arm and radius rod bushings are for a 88-91 civic
No more slop vs old 20+ year bushings and no squeaks vs polyurethane bushings :ohyeah:
Hopefully I will receive these soon. They will be installed on my db2. I can compare them with the ES ones on my da9. No more worn out bushing on the db2 :excite:
