I use 91 octane with either Redline octane booster or Outlaw octane booster.
Thats one good thing about living in Canada, we can get 94 octane at allmost all the gas stations.
Originally posted by teg9
i know this is an old post but I was just searching for some info about gude head before I jump on it and I stumbled on this thread. Just a few question ALLMotorLS:
*you said something about revving up to 8500 just wondering if the stock bottom end can take that? Or you need to upgrade some bottom end parts to maximize the gude head?
*And about changing spark plugs 2-3 weeks, whats causing this?
I think that would suck if you need to change it every2-3 weeks. thx for replying to this old thread in advance.
Yes, MY stock bottom end can take it. It has taken that abuse for the last 3 years. As for each individual motor, it depends on the condition. You could spend some cash rebuilding the bottom end, it wouldn’t hurt, but I don’t have plans anytime soon to do so.
Spark plugs… The reason for changing them every 2-3 weeks was a combo of things. The main reason is that the computer runs real rich after 5 grand dumping a bunch of fuel after that point. Also, I used to drive 60 miles every day.
Now that I have my 89 4Runner, I drive the Integra once or twice a week. I change the plugs once every 2 months or so.
Also, I figure that spark plugs are free for me, so why not put a new set in whenever I get the chance?
-Nick
2 Ref tickets in 8 months… all because of this…
Originally posted by AllMotorLS
I give MUCH more respect to someone that has a 180 whp b18a than a 200 whp b16 or b18c. Of course a LS/Vtec setup would yeild more hp and torque, but how many of your friends with b18a’s or b’s can rev to 8500 or more all day long ( just like an LS/Vtec )? Not many.
:werd::werd::werd::werd:
:bowdown::bowdown:
:werd:
YOU, are awesome.
LS POWA!!!
Forgot…
Although a stock LS bottom end only makes power to 7700 or 7800 rpm’s, being able to rev to 8500 allows you to shift later and land higher in the rpm band in the next gear. I usually shift at 7500 because it revs up SO quick. By then it lands at about 5 grand, right where the powerband starts with my cams. Just like Vtec, but without it… and everyone SWEARS I have a GSR motor. I haven’t seen too many LS valve covers on Vtec heads or LS heads on Vtec blocks…actually none. So to fix that, I’m gonna buy a 92 - 93 GSR and show everyone the difference. Besides, I won’t get messed with in a bone stock GSR.
Thanks E-DA9:werd: to you
-Nick
With all the stuff you’ve said ALLMotorLS I’m almost definitely going to spend all my 3 grand teg fund for a gude head package and other engine parts. If only I could postpone my wedding this Jan. I’ll purchase it right now:D .
Except from the idling and spark plug stuff what other downsides can you tell me if I go with gude head package that I need to reconsider? Would there be any legal problem with the engine like passing emissions, inspections, etc and will it have the same problem with those who mixmatch heads and bottoms? Guessing its not because it’ll just look like a stock engine from the outside.
Where did you purchase yours? mmrusa.com have them for over 1600 and they say that Head Packages contain:
Ported and Polished Cylinder Head, Racing Valve Grind, Ported Intake Manifold, Ported Throttle Body and Camshaft/s.
is that a good price or can you recommend other places that sell them cheaper? Am I getting the same stuff as yours? Looks like i’m missing a Gude computer or did you purchase that separately?
Sorry for the tons of questions. thx
deam— i would hate to get blasted by a built LS… that is just bad . anyway–
those gude packages sound sick, but i wonder what would happen w/ a gude head for vtec…scary eh?.. probobly a scary price too! ha! see ya-
ps–im a fan of anyone who has the balls to build an LS- so good job.
Hey, I thought I would respond to this post as I just finished rebuilding my engine, and I included the Gude head pakage with it. Here’s what I’m running:
B18A1 - Non-Vtec
Crower Stroker kit:
95mm Crank
Custom Rods w/ 3.605 Stroke
JE Pistons +.020 over (10.5+:1 compression)
Internally balanced
Gude Head Package w/
Crower Street/Strip Cams, Springs, Ti Retainers
AEM Cam Gears
BBK 70mm TB
Gude ECU Upgrade
Skunk2 Intake Manifold
AEM Cold Air Intake
Kamikaze Headers
Thermal R&D Exhaust w/ Random Tech. 3" Cat.
The head package makes an amazing difference no matter what you happen to be running, but I can tell you that if you build up the bottom end, it’s a world of difference. There will be a push either way, but I’m running around 220 whp @ 6000 rpm.
The idle is a problem, but with the right cams, and proper tuning, it will take care of itself.
I don’t have any pics yet because the car is still ugly as hell :), plus I’m working on the oil system now (all Moroso). I did all the work with a mechanic friend of mine, so if anyone has any questions, let me know. epeksound@hotmail.com.
Thanks for reading 
Originally posted by teg9
[B]With all the stuff you’ve said ALLMotorLS I’m almost definitely going to spend all my 3 grand teg fund for a gude head package and other engine parts. If only I could postpone my wedding this Jan. I’ll purchase it right now:D .
Except from the idling and spark plug stuff what other downsides can you tell me if I go with gude head package that I need to reconsider? Would there be any legal problem with the engine like passing emissions, inspections, etc and will it have the same problem with those who mixmatch heads and bottoms? Guessing its not because it’ll just look like a stock engine from the outside.
Where did you purchase yours? mmrusa.com have them for over 1600 and they say that Head Packages contain:
Ported and Polished Cylinder Head, Racing Valve Grind, Ported Intake Manifold, Ported Throttle Body and Camshaft/s.
is that a good price or can you recommend other places that sell them cheaper? Am I getting the same stuff as yours? Looks like i’m missing a Gude computer or did you purchase that separately?
Sorry for the tons of questions. thx [/B]
Let’s see…
Since you are located in AZ, I’m not sure what your smog limits are. I know that I probably would not pass an emissions test in CA. First, there’s no way it would pass visually because of all of the other stuff I have on there, not because of the Gude equipment. Second, my computer dumps tons of fuel after 5 grand. Third, I have a gutted cat, so I’m ****ed there as well. It would take A LOT of work to get MY car to pass smog because of many things, not just the head package. Put it this way, my car sits in my garage…that’s all. I drive it here and there, but if I drove it more, I’d get arrested. It’s unfortunate something SO FUN is now SO ILLEGAL because of a movie.
I got my head package from ARD… I do not recommend them at all. Mantaray Motorsports is right down the street from my house and my brothers shop. I went there to look at some Fiber Images hoods and left knowing that I could buy something from them. One of the sales guys has a CRX with a head package and he loves it. $1600 is the set price for that package these days.
I’m not sure why I got a computer and no one else seems to be. I bought my setup a long time ago, it may be a bit more aggressive than what Bill is selling now, hence the need for the computer. I’m not 100% sure though. You should call Bill and ask him the details.
-Nick
that doesn’t sound that good.:think: This car would be my only car for like few more years until I get to afford having 2 cars. So I need to make it as legal as possible. What stuff exactly do you think makes your car fail a smog except for the gutted cat that I can steer away from putting in my car? All in all you’re saying that to make a NA B18a hit 160 whp means having a not streetlegal car? Now you got me thinking that it wouldn’t be practical to spend all that money into my car that would be my everyday car.
This sucks big time:bang:
My Integra has been my only car since 1998. I have put close to 60,000 miles on my car since the head package. The reason I don’t drive it anymore is beacause I get pulled over NO MATTER what. Doin’ 40 in a 45… guess what, Nick gets pulled over. For what? Because I put over 20 g’s into my car, Johnny decides he wants some of my wallet? Phuck that!
The sad part is…THEY WON.
Anyway, back to the head package…
Those of you who are new to the Import industry OR the Motorsports industry at that, you need to understand something… when you want to push your car to it’s limits, there are going to be some sacrifices and it’s not going to be a STOCK car anymore. Squeezing 50+ horses from a Naturally Aspirated NON Vtec motor is quite a task. Asking it to idle as if it were stock is kind of uncalled for. That’s where Vtec comes in and that is why it’s around. Granted, a Vtec motor with aggressive cams will idle rough, but not nearly as rough as a non Vtec motor. To answer the question about a 160 whp “streetable” car… in California, it won’t be legal. I don’t know about your state. I have a fuel pressure regulator, a fuel pressure guage, Kamikaze 4-1 headers, a Jacobs coil… all visible …all this stuff visually fails the car immediately.
All in all, I love my car. I can now honestly say my car handles better than an brand new IS300, and has more acceleration than the IS300 and a 2003 Nissan Maxima. Considering it’s a 93 Integra, I think I kinda accomplished my goal. I would not change one thing about the setup…maybe get the Spoon shiftknob before the B&M… anyway.
As far as your choice is concerned, it’s up to you. You’re gonna have to keep on top of the maintenence, learn about motors, etc as soon as you put this head on. Dyno runs become routine, cam gears get messed with more than some people like and valve adjustments- you better get the Snap on tool and a feeler guage, you’re gonna need em’.
:shock:
-Nick
allmotorls: what you could do to be legal would be to get the crane ignition box and lx91 or lx92 coils. they both are CARB legal. have both on my ls motor and have gotten my hood popped and the cops are amzed on the CARB numbers i have. in regards to the fuel regulator i have a weapon-r one on my car all i do is put the stock one on to smog and mine is kinda hidden on the firewall so they dont see all the lines. alos i am running weapon-r intake also CARB legal. and dc header legal also. i plan to build a ls block with just type-r pistons, have a port and polished head w/retainers and springs, but im gonna run stock cams for smog then just switch them out after. i should pass smog with this setup cuz since the cams are stock it wont mess up the emissions but once you put cams forget smog. my basic theory is make everthing visiable to the cops, but still have your bottom and head built, they cant ticket you for ****. even my exhaust is legal greddy mx, i even have a paper from them stating its decibal tested. right now i just have basic bolt ons all CARB legal. so i have gotten tickets but i have had all them thrown out of court. so through my experiances just have every bolt on legal then do what ever to you bottom end and head , the only thing is to pass smog, and so far i have been fine. i have also been looking into putting a gude head on with my new bottom end im building just run stock cams to try to pass smog even run the stock computer then swith it out for a gude computer with different cams after i pass smog. also the crane ignition box has a rev limiter so its good to use. allmotorls any comments on my ideas or suggestions.
errrr
i dont understand… so it dumps alot of fuel in a 5k and up… well… it should burn it lol, if its tuned properly it shouldnt run rich enough to not pass emissions… it should run only slightly rich… and as far as i know you can run as much as 12.5:1 compression on 93 octane… www.inlinefour.com why not go there, get headwork done, replace cams, springs, retainers… and save money… 850 for headwork, crower cams are like 400, springs are 150, retainers, 150… lil cheaper…
Re: errrr
Originally posted by GaRn
i dont understand… so it dumps alot of fuel in a 5k and up… well… it should burn it lol, if its tuned properly it shouldnt run rich enough to not pass emissions… it should run only slightly rich… and as far as i know you can run as much as 12.5:1 compression on 93 octane… www.inlinefour.com why not go there, get headwork done, replace cams, springs, retainers… and save money… 850 for headwork, crower cams are like 400, springs are 150, retainers, 150… lil cheaper…
Whatever. Your numbers add up to a $50 difference. If it’s tuned properly? Yeah, If I throw Apex air fuel controller on there, my problem will be gone…and that’s about the only problem I see…properly tuned, give me a break. Also, my Integra probably SEEMS to run richer than everyones BECAUSE of the gutted cat.
By the way, the computer throws more fuel in at 5k because of the cams. The reason the plugs need to be changed is from it’s long idle times when I warm it up…not so much when you’re at 5000- 8500.
-Nick
yep
oh well, go here… www.jgenginedynamics.com and you can get it done for WAY less… how bout that? you should have a VAFC anyways with your mods, that shoulda been the first thing you bought hehe, yes properly tuned… no i wont give you a break. all vtec engines throw in more fuel at the vtec crossover… obviosly with wilder cams, aka vtec lobes, you have more air, needing more fuel… try denso iridium plugs… they work great on teh the b16a1 and should on yours, not to mention they last much longer… they are like 12 bucks a plug tho… www.sparkplugs.com i think?
Re: yep
Originally posted by GaRn
oh well, go here… www.jgenginedynamics.com and you can get it done for WAY less… how bout that? you should have a VAFC anyways with your mods, that shoulda been the first thing you bought hehe, yes properly tuned… no i wont give you a break. all vtec engines throw in more fuel at the vtec crossover… obviosly with wilder cams, aka vtec lobes, you have more air, needing more fuel… try denso iridium plugs… they work great on teh the b16a1 and should on yours, not to mention they last much longer… they are like 12 bucks a plug tho… www.sparkplugs.com i think?
i dont mean to sound like a dick or anything but ive just started roaming g2ic again and ive seen you in so many posts now. and im pretty sure almost everyone here has heard of JG and has been there once or twice in their lives. but their products are not the BEST and i heard some bad stories with their customer service and what not. oh and you dont have to put a link in every post.
oh
bad customer service? that sucks… and yes i do! hehe jk…
Re: yep
Originally posted by GaRn
oh well, go here… www.jgenginedynamics.com and you can get it done for WAY less… how bout that? you should have a VAFC anyways with your mods, that shoulda been the first thing you bought hehe, yes properly tuned… no i wont give you a break. all vtec engines throw in more fuel at the vtec crossover… obviosly with wilder cams, aka vtec lobes, you have more air, needing more fuel… try denso iridium plugs… they work great on teh the b16a1 and should on yours, not to mention they last much longer… they are like 12 bucks a plug tho… www.sparkplugs.com i think?
um, actually if you as much as looked at his screen name you’d see he has a NON vtec motor…
derrr
stupid me… safc then… oh well, your point?:whip:
Re: derrr
Originally posted by GaRn
stupid me… oh well, your point?
I think you just answered it… :think:
Re: yep
Originally posted by GaRn
oh well, go here… www.jgenginedynamics.com and you can get it done for WAY less… how bout that? you should have a VAFC anyways with your mods, that shoulda been the first thing you bought hehe, yes properly tuned… no i wont give you a break. all vtec engines throw in more fuel at the vtec crossover… obviosly with wilder cams, aka vtec lobes, you have more air, needing more fuel… try denso iridium plugs… they work great on teh the b16a1 and should on yours, not to mention they last much longer… they are like 12 bucks a plug tho… www.sparkplugs.com i think?
Sorry, I’ve been laughing for the last few days and I just now stopped. As far as JG Engine Dynamics is concerned, do you know Javier? I do and so do a lot of my friends…how bout that? I’ve talked to Javier about my car many times and if I wanted JG product, I’d have it. All Naturally Aspirated JG LS’s that I have seen, never dyno’d more that 148 whp with cams and “properly tuned”. Why do you think people started swapping Vtec motors for their LS motors, back in the day, JG WAS the ****, and that was the most people could squeeze out of a JG motor WITH a STOCK BLOCK. I got 12 more whp with my Gude setup. Boy, did I make THE WRONG CHOICE huh?
As far as my motor is concerned, you need to read before you post. Others have pointed this out to you by now. Running rich is the least of my concerns. Considering the problem can be solved with a SAFC…repeat after me S-A-F-C…not VAFC, for a couple hundred dollars and a few dyno runs, I’m not going to pull my hair out over it. But I will point this out… when that SAFC is installed, I will most likely have more than 160 whp, which is still more than a JG setup. So, again, tell me your point. You’re bashing on Bill Gude when you haven’t even used his products. Grow up.
As far as plugs are concerned, all I really need are my NGK’s, one range colder than stock. I might switch to Iridiums, especially considering my high compression. As for now, I have a house payment to make and trips out to Glamis to plan. When I get free time, I spend it finishing up the body work on the Integra. It runs fine and smokes ALMOST anything that comes around. But, since I’m over street racing, getting the body done is my main priority, not killing people by floosin’ my **** at 100 mph on side streets. Besides, when Roger Sanco from AEBS says 160 whp from a LS with a stock block isn’t bad, I’ll take his word.
My question is, how much **** are you going to talk when I throw a B20 block under that head?
-Nick