After boosting i blew the head gasket this is the second time it has happened in 1 month 1 time N/A and the other boosted but is it a good idea to change the head bolts if so who has some good but cheap ones and do you need to go back and re-torque them after so many miles
ARP
I’ve never heard of anyone (I know) that had to re-torque them.
did you have the head surfaced before you installed the new headgasket? :worry: you NEED to get it surfaced. what did you touque the bolts to? :worry: did you clean the bolts, then dip them in CLEAN 10w30 motor oil before installing? :worry: did you follow the touque sequence? :worry: these are all important things when replacing a headgasket. 
it was 12 a.m. when i had to replace the headgasket and we had to leave early in the morning from OK to MN so no i COULD NOT get the head surfaced(there was no way in hell i could have gotten it done unless i waited for a business to open but we didnt have time) and yes the bolts were torqued in order and to spec. It was done according to the manual and i did clean the head bolts but no they werent dipped in oil. Also i know the proper way to replace a head gasket but this had to be done asap unless i wanted to loose my job. Just wondering about the head bolts that is all
ARPs have to be retorqued and checked after 200 miles. AEBS does not have to be retorqued. I have had both. I like the AEBS headstuds better they are more beefy then the ARPs. You are not supposed to reuse factory headstuds, i believe the ARPs and AEBS can be reused twice.
where do you get your knowledge? factory headblots are NOT torque to yeild! therefore they can be reused. arp’s DO NOT have to be retorqued where have you gotten such bad info? how are they “more beefy” if the stud is the same size? :worry:
Dipping them in OIL is very important. if they are dry, you didn’t torque them to the correct reading. a dry bolt will click a torque wrench at least 30 ft lbs. early. so if you set the wrench at 62ft lbs. then your bolts prob were torqued to less than 30 ft. lbs. thats how important the oil is. thats why your headgasket went again. :bang:
All head bolts should be retorqued after a few hundred miles. ARP, AEBS or stock.
AEBS and ARP head studs can be reused several times. You just have to consider the stretch factor on the bolts. You can’t reuse them like 10 times and expect them to be the same still. Its your call on that how often you want to use it. We usually stick to a 3-4 time use rule.
Stock head bolts cannot be reused. THey are designed to be replaced when taken out. Some people reuse them again, but its not suggested. You may be able to get away with it if its not in bad condition yet, but plan on chaning them to performance type bolts when you take out your head.
Always lube the threads, whether its the moly lube that AEBS or ARP provides or at least just Oil.
Question…if you remove all the head bolts very carefully and dont move the head up, side to side or off in any manner when removing the bolts…can you just replace them with ARP/AEBS and not replace the headgasket?
Can you just swap them out?
Xenocron- i would like to know this too.
anyone have an answer?
you could but it isnt going to seal properly because there are metal rings that surrond the cylinders that keep it from getting to compressed in a certain area around the cylinder so you do not spring a leak however after it has been wrenched down once the rings are compressed a bit and could possibly warp or distort after you remove the head and put the new bolds on…you could try it…but you may be putting it all back together again soon…i personally think it would be worth it to replace it…30 bucks i think at an autoparts store or around 50 or so from the honda dealer (get that one)…a small price to pay for not having to take all that crap apart again…hth
Yeah but you wouldnt have to fuck with the Timing Belt either…thats why I was thinking.
You could also maybe replace 1 bolt at a time? Although i would be afraid of warping shit doing it this way.
Arghhh