i’m about to pull my LS head out of my engine to inspect the possible damage from a snapped timing belt @ 90 mph. what to do??? (how to align everything, torque on bolts, etc…) i basically need to know “how-to’s” and any critical info i should know. i’ve never done this before and have no $ to pay someone to do it. please help me with info!!! thanks.
Download the Helms repair manual.
Xdep has it in his sig i thing. If not, just search for it. If you don’t have that, and you’ve never pulled a head, dont attempt it.
it’s not something that can be explained in less then 2 pages of typing…do what japanimated say…get a manual, preferably a helms. There many aspect in removing the head and the sequence and the amount of turns on the bolts…so you dont WARP your head.
Ken
ya its not for the novice, but ive never done it before either and just dove right in. never worked on engine internals either. d/l the helms AND get a haynes manual for when you cant view it on the pc. i brought out a notebook to view it.
100ziplock baggies
permanent marker to label
10 disposable containers (those microwavable glad ones i think)
notepad and/or camera to take notes and snap what you might forget
100 pairs of latex gloves
TOOLS! i had no tools. had to borrow a 200piece set. read through all the steps to see what youll need. impact wrench helps things go faster.
12-18" breaker bar for crank pulley bolt
3-4foot pipe to put on breaker bar to get leverage
OR take to a shop and have them loosen the crank bolt for you
its a good idea to replace the gaskets. you MIGHT be able to get away with it, but if you have problems later… well thats why. ~120 for aftermarket head kit (gaskets, rings, etc). ~200 for honda gaskets.
another car/friend to take you to the honda parts store when you break a bolt.
took me 22days total. most of the time was being stuck on the crank pulley bolt or just not having the right tools and waiting. otehrwise probably wouldve taken me 4-5days. good luck, have faith, take your time and be careful.
i just tried downloading helms from you and it said the page i’m looking for is not available. now what???
download from the other link (Chado)
tried that too, but i don’t feel like spending $30 on a program to view the manual when i could probably just buy the manual for that much. do you know of a way i can view it for free??
Originally posted by japanimated
tried that too, but i don’t feel like spending $30 on a program to view the manual when i could probably just buy the manual for that much. do you know of a way i can view it for free??
you dont need to buy rar or winrar. its shareware but fully functional. i can send you a registration code if you really need it. yes you should still buy the haynes manual for 12bucks for a job this big.
yeah, if you have a code for me, that would be cool. i’m kinda in a world of sh*t now. i started pulling the head. i got down to the head bolts and stripped the heads of 2 of them. i was’nt aware that i was supposed to work from the inside -> out, alternating sides. i just started right to left on the exhaust side, and then left to right on the intake side. the 2 bolts i stripped are the far right 2 on the intake (looking at the engine). i guess i’m gonna get 2 14mm sockets and JB weld them to the heads of the head bolts. i guess i’ll just buy ARP head bolts after that. any one have any better ideas???
Originally posted by japanimated
yeah, if you have a code for me, that would be cool. i’m kinda in a world of sh*t now. i started pulling the head. i got down to the head bolts and stripped the heads of 2 of them. i was’nt aware that i was supposed to work from the inside -> out, alternating sides. i just started right to left on the exhaust side, and then left to right on the intake side. the 2 bolts i stripped are the far right 2 on the intake (looking at the engine). i guess i’m gonna get 2 14mm sockets and JB weld them to the heads of the head bolts. i guess i’ll just buy ARP head bolts after that. any one have any better ideas???
WinRAR v2.06 - Name - Finn Mac CooL - Serial - 9F915BFE69BBEE
or http://astalaivista.box.sk
make sure you have updated your virus definitions before running any of those programs
that sucks man. before you go any further, have a manual next to you! arp bolts are good, but id be really hesitant to spend 100bucks if im not gonna build up my motor. it is the safe thing to do though, since they say oem bolts wear out and dont give accurate torque readings. anyways, if it were me id just get some used bolts from the local parts recycler.
$100 for head bolts!!! how much are honda ones? i thought they were only like $1.50 a piece???
yep. oem ones are around the same price so you might as well get the arp’s, as they are reusable and designed for high performance too
Yeah this job is pretty damn hard. 4day job turned into 2 weeks, because **** kept on breaking or getting lost.
so your telling me that the head bolts that i already pulled that are in good shape are no good to re-use??? why?
because they are stretched and when you torque them down again they wont be accurate. i said to hell with it and reused mine and ill just retorque them later. of course i never did… and im burning coolant now… ill tell you what my results are
ya its essential to label each and every nut in its own baggy. even if its just a single nut. helps to organize in groups and whatnot, just make sure you make a system where you know exactly what and where everything goes, do not assume you can remember anything about it, cuz you wont.