Is this not a good swap? Has anyone done this and how much roughly is it? Should I stick with the b16?
Be more specific. What year Integra? 92-93 are OBD1 and a 94-95 B18C can be wired in pretty easily.
b18c1 will be a good deal faster than the b16a, plus it’ll feel better driving it around town cause it has more torque.
as for the swap, it doesn’t really matter whether its 90-91 or 92-93, either swap will be about the same in how difficult of a swap it is.
read the vtec swap guide in the teg tips, it’ll give you all the info you need.
Well the reason Im wondering is that I just got my 3K dollar bonus check from work and Im ready to do a swap and get my baby rolling. I just rode in my buddys 97 gsr and it was flying just with an intake and exhaust. I have a 90 ls with a standard b18a.
Originally posted by 91IntegGS
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as for the swap, it doesn’t really matter whether its 90-91 or 92-93, either swap will be about the same in how difficult of a swap it is.
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actually, the harness is a big problem… especially when your’e on a budget. 90-91 non-obd plug for the ECU will not plug into the 94-95GSR(if thats what you’re gettin), then you go to the teg tips and get more info to do the swap. if you have a 92-93 obd-1, then it would work alot better, assuming that you get a 94-95GSR motor, less of a headache… trust me. read my sig.
golly i wish people would learn this…
OBD OF THE ENGINE YOU’RE PUTTING IN IS NOT IMPORTANT. you can use the harness already in your engine bay, you just need to use your old distributor and injectors (or new injectors for your car, not the car the engine came from). for an OBD-I car, just use the obd-i ecu, it doesn’t matter if it’s a I or II engine.
for a non-obd car, get a non-obd vtec ecu, and you’ll need to use a skunk2 intake manifold to get rid of the secondary intake butterflies.
of course, this is what it says in dan’s guide too.
integ’91: come on, you know that i’ve been over the wiring stuff a million times. Plus, i’ve done all the pricing out for how much of a cost difference there will be between running non obd or obd1.
In most every case you can sell off all the obd1 parts and make more than enough $$ to buy the needed non obd parts. For example: non obd, ecu’s, distributors, and injectors all retail for considerably less money than their obd1 counterparts.
So, you simply sell the obd1 ecu, distributor, and injectors. Use that money to buy a pr3 ecu and a skunk2 intake manifold. use your stock b18a injectors and distributor. There ya have it—you can run non obd or obd1 for relatively the same price.
I’m still baffled why everyone flips out about stock b18c1 swaps. Its really simple when you just break it down and look at it. Don’t let the diagnostic system or the intake manifold scare you.
hat about if I can get a hold of a 97 gsr motor. Am I looking at a difficult swap? I have a 90 ls BTW. All those things you were talking about were having to do with a 94-95 gsr motor right?
Please read the teg tips. It will answer all of your questions. I spent a lot of time writing that up so people would have an easy reference…and to prevent repeated engine swap questions. If you have any questions after reading it, please e-mail me and I’ll answer any questions you may have. Best of luck.
I guess I never really thought about looking at that even though it was there all the time. Good job by the way. But shouldn’t you be going to MIT or something or do you have ADD. Kidding of course. Maybe I’ve seen The Fast and the Furious a few too many times.