Do this, have a friend watch the release arm while you push on the clutch. Does it go up and down? This is the thing, if the release arm is moving up and down fine yet the pedal feels weird and you already attempted to adjust your clutch cable, there’s a problem with the clutch install, be it the TO bearing, flywheel step, or other I can’t tell you from a computer.
And please tell me you were not runnig the transmission with no tranny fluid!!! This is a bad thing to do. Put the other axle in and fill the tranny with fluid. Repeat the test and let me know what you find out.
Originally posted by G2guru
[B]Do this, have a friend watch the release arm while you push on the clutch. Does it go up and down? This is the thing, if the release arm is moving up and down fine yet the pedal feels weird and you already attempted to adjust your clutch cable, there’s a problem with the clutch install, be it the TO bearing, flywheel step, or other I can’t tell you from a computer.
And please tell me you were not runnig the transmission with no tranny fluid!!! This is a bad thing to do. Put the other axle in and fill the tranny with fluid. Repeat the test and let me know what you find out. [/B]
thanks i will try that tonight, i had fluid in the tranny but… it spilled and i put the axle in… but the thing is it dontmove while the car is running. i know for a fact taht the wheels should spin even while in neutral. thanks dan ill keep you informed thanks you for your help
Originally posted by giovannie heres an update the stupid ball joint wont come off… i cant put the drivers side axle in ill jsut hold it for tomorow till i fianly see waht is wrong…
are you talking about getting the hub off? heres how to pop joint from lower arm easily:
jack up the rotor till the axle is horizontal again. get a wrench or something and stick the handle inbetween the ball joint and lower arm, so its resting against the boot (behind the hub). while holding the wrench steady, lower the jack all the way down until it pops out. done!
heres a profile shot (you are facing the front of the car):
==== upper arm
|__| balljoint | | hub
X = dustboot
==== lower arm ******* jack YOU
you are on the right holding the jack handle. you get your wrench and stick it where the X is and hold it steady. slowly lower the jack until it pops.
I don’t know if you have fixed this problem yet or not, but I read something here I thought was off a little. You only have one axle in correct? And NO LSD correct? That would explain why you hear engine moving and the speedo is going up and you are not spinning that one wheel, cause it is easier to spin one transmission shaft than it is to spin a wheel mounted on your axle. Same thing would happen if you actually broke a CV joint. It would just sit and spin and you would go no where. Finish putting the other axle in and mount the tire for it and readjust the clutch cable and let us know how it works. Hope this helps and I didn’t misread something.
Originally posted by Shaun Ladd I don’t know if you have fixed this problem yet or not, but I read something here I thought was off a little. You only have one axle in correct? And NO LSD correct? That would explain why you hear engine moving and the speedo is going up and you are not spinning that one wheel, cause it is easier to spin one transmission shaft than it is to spin a wheel mounted on your axle. Same thing would happen if you actually broke a CV joint. It would just sit and spin and you would go no where. Finish putting the other axle in and mount the tire for it and readjust the clutch cable and let us know how it works. Hope this helps and I didn’t misread something.
Originally posted by Shaun Ladd I don’t know if you have fixed this problem yet or not, but I read something here I thought was off a little. You only have one axle in correct? And NO LSD correct? That would explain why you hear engine moving and the speedo is going up and you are not spinning that one wheel, cause it is easier to spin one transmission shaft than it is to spin a wheel mounted on your axle. Same thing would happen if you actually broke a CV joint. It would just sit and spin and you would go no where. Finish putting the other axle in and mount the tire for it and readjust the clutch cable and let us know how it works. Hope this helps and I didn’t misread something.
the both spin i put the axles in last ngiht it was 30 degrees out… and i jsut got back in from work and its raining!!! wtf!!! ill keep you updated as for taht ls vtec head leak i gotta take the damn head off:sad: :sad: ill keep all of you updated
UP DATE!!! my cars runs!!!1 i was soo happy that it runs… i put the axles in and drove it and it runs really good… but vtec dont work i wanna tahnk all you guys for helping me out soo much. ill be back tomorrow i have alot of school work to do thanks again…
cliff notes:
car runs thanks to everyone that posted on this thread, car is overheating for some odd reason, vtec not working(all wires are connectedp28 chipped ecu no time to check for code) tach not working. radiator fan not working… other than taht car runs fine…
really? I didn’t know VTEC needed a working speedo to engage. That is scary cause in my LS my speedo is very jumpy. I could just imagine installing a B16A and accelerating and it going in and out of VTEC while the speedo jumped around.
Originally posted by G2guru Is your speedometer working? If it is not, that is why your VTEC won’t engage.
my speedometer is working. my “tach” is not working. i have no idea why the tach wont work … i never had problems with it. the car overheats. i see steam coming from the thermostat housing seems like alittle coolant bursted somewhere. the temp needle went way too high when i noticed it so i shut the car off.
Originally posted by giovannie my speedometer is working. my “tach” is not working. i have no idea why the tach wont work … i never had problems with it. the car overheats. i see steam coming from the thermostat housing seems like alittle coolant bursted somewhere. the temp needle went way too high when i noticed it so i shut the car off.
After refilling the coolant, did you bleed the system? If there is any air in there then your car will overheat as you described.
Originally posted by SiCivic99 After refilling the coolant, did you bleed the system? If there is any air in there then your car will overheat as you described.
actually no i forgot to do that lol… ill try that i put half water and half coolant i wanna put 100% coolant how the heck i drain the 50/50 well ill bleed out the coolant and see what happens i hop its not my thermostat or anything
Originally posted by giovannie actually no i forgot to do that lol… ill try that i put half water and half coolant i wanna put 100% coolant how the heck i drain the 50/50 well ill bleed out the coolant and see what happens i hop its not my thermostat or anything
Adding 100% coolant is stupid. Please, please, please do me a favor and do not do that.
Originally posted by SiCivic99 Adding 100% coolant is stupid. Please, please, please do me a favor and do not do that.
I agree, coolant is used mainly for its resistance to freezing and anti-corrosion properties. In the summer it is safe to run 100% water, but the opposite isn’t really true in the winter.
You want to run 50%/50% in the winter. 100% coolant will likely make your car run hotter since 50/50 is the optimal mixture for the winter.
Originally posted by mojoGSR92
[B]I agree, coolant is used mainly for its resistance to freezing and anti-corrosion properties. In the summer it is safe to run 100% water, but the opposite isn’t really true in the winter.
You want to run 50%/50% in the winter. 100% coolant will likely make your car run hotter since 50/50 is the optimal mixture for the winter. [/B]
Coolant is designed to work WITH water, not alone. As stated your car will run hotter with only coolant. If you are that anal about it add a bottle of water wetter. Even then the car will probably run at the same temp as regulated by the termostat.
YOU