I was definitely excited after seeing the pic! Definitely cant wait to see it completed.
the more you hype it up, the less excited i will be when you finally post a real picture of the car that doesn’t look too much different then what it was the last time i saw it before the second accident.
lol. i just posted that to be silly, really. its just not as good looking as I wanted it to be for the first “real” picture. need to clean the wheels and tires. i’m almost finished with my rims. one of them had a little cosmetic damage, and my dad’s friend fixed that for me for free. I was gonna do them in gunmetal with the blue lip, but it just didn’t look right, so i’m doing them in silver again, but its not the “polished” silver that it used to be.
this is the rim BEFORE the repair:
notice the little spot on the top spoke. a small piece of metal was nicked out of it:
here is the raw repair:
after I primed and painted over it, the spot is now 100% unnoticeable.
removed
its good to see that you didnt strip it down and take it to the crusher, like i would have.
in for pics
something like this…
rims will likely be on by Thursday.
your car is all fixed?
yup 
all done. just have a few other things I want to do with it before I do a proper photoshoot on it in its current condition. finishing up my rims, then they’re going back on.
tomorrow or monday, I’m removing the rear wiper and motor (anyone need one, I’ll sell it cheap) then doing some hardcore detailing on the interior. Its dirtier now, than it ever has been before. Gotta put an end to that nasty looking shit. But yeah, for the most part, its all done 
^if you cant find OEM wiper block off plugs, or you dont want to pay 13 bucks for them, home depot sells plugs that fit perfectly. the ones i used for all my deleting were 45c a piece.
had to dye them black, as they were white when i bought them.
used in antenna, wiper and middle brake light.
already have a plug that i used on my old hatch/window. when that window got shattered, i managed to salvage the plug. so i just need to put it in the new one
look at you, freakin prepared son.
i think i said it before, but props on doin it proper.
Thanks. I’m up bright and early today, so all the little odds and ends that I haven’t done yet will all be pretty much done.
On today’s agenda:
Finish the wiring on the JDM sidemarkers
Wire up the 3rd brake light
Remove rear wiper, etc.
Detail clean the interior
Repaint OEM front lip
Get car inspected (VA state inspection is about 7 months overdue, lol)
Finish my rims, and get tires mounted/balanced
So, on yesterday’s agenda, here’s what got done…
NOTHING 
Fucking ICM and coil went out when I was trying to diagnose a bogging problem I was having. I pulled a plug wire while the car was running, the car stumbled for a split second then ran fine. THEN, when I put the wire back on, the car died and hasn’t started since. After a LOT of investigating, it has been narrowed down to the ICM and coil. So, I went to Autozone to see if they had the parts, and they did. The ICM was 65, and the coil was 75. I didn’t buy, immediately as I wanted to try a few other things to get it running again first, but to no avail. Good thing I didn’t, as the retainer screw that holds the rotor button on, is stripped beyond use, so my only option would be to either break off the rotor, or drill out the screw. Both options would pretty much dictate a new cap and rotor (which its about time to replace, anyway), so with THOSE parts and prices factored in, here was the general break down…
ICM - $65
Coil - $75
Cap/Rotor - $40 total
so that brings the total to around $180’ish.
I said, F that, when I can get a brand new distributor for $150’ish, which will include all of the above AND more. So, I’m taking that route. Even though the crank position sensor etc is fine, as is, having brand new goodies never hurt anything. So, hopefully I’ll have it here by the weekend and can get it up and running this weekend.
Quick question, will I need to remove the timing cover, etc. to rotate the crank at the pulley? Its been a long time since I’ve had to do it (about 4 years) and I don’t recall off-hand. Also, what size is the bolt? All my tools are at my dad’s (where I did the majority of the repair) and I can’t get to them for a while, so I’m gonna have to borrow some of my friend’s tools.
Thanks in advance.
at that price man, get a new distributor from distributor king for an extra 20 bucks :shrug:
I never herd back from you yesterday. if you want that coil its yours man:up:
:werd:
I’ve considered distributor king. As sad as it is to say, that extra $20 would put a hurting on me, lol. My money is starting to run thin, and I don’t wanna dip into my “back up” savings.
thats atleast a 20 well spent IMHO. tell you what man if you really need $20 that bad, just sell me some of those rare goodies 
lol, actually, I’m trying to sell some Energy Suspension Rear Trail Arm bushings. BNIB. if you, or anyone, wants them, make an offer 
ill put the word out
[QUOTE=imcnblu;2147792]
Quick question, will I need to remove the timing cover, etc. to rotate the crank at the pulley? Its been a long time since I’ve had to do it (about 4 years) and I don’t recall off-hand. Also, what size is the bolt? All my tools are at my dad’s (where I did the majority of the repair) and I can’t get to them for a while, so I’m gonna have to borrow some of my friend’s tools.
Thanks in advance.[/QUOTE]
up
crank pulley is a 19mm if i recall same size ase the stock lug wrench