The motor cranks fine all day long, but it won’t fire up whenever the engine is hot (operating temperature). For example, I start the car early in the morning (starts fine), drive for 15 minutes to the pharmacy, come out of the store 10 minutes later, and tries to start the car. It won’t start when I come out of the store. I’ll have to seat in the parking lot and wait another 15 minutes before it’ll barely start. It doesn’t want to idle at all during the first 30 seconds, so I have to use the gas pedal during that time. After 30 seconds, it idles fine, and the car drives like it’s brand new.
The problem is the same during both cold and hot weather.
I just bought this car, and the previous owner just told me the distributor and fuel injectors werereplaced one year ago.
I have also replaced the Main Fuel Relay and the Coolant temperature sensor. But these two items did not fix my hot-start problem. What so I look for?
One more thing. The CEL is ON. I pulled the ECU code, and it indicates a bad EGR valve. Can a bad EGR valve cause hot-start problem?
so the MFR clicks when it won’t start? It is possible you got another bad one. I would see if the CEL stays solid when it wont start, and if there is a click or not. I had the same problem and it was my MFR. (I know you already replaced it, but just make sure it is good.)
you need to replace ur distributor. bad mfr and bad distributor issues are similar… but there are differences. if u know and inspected ur new mfr and know its good i’m 98% sure its ur distributor. its about time anyways.
Well, the previous owner probably did not use genuine Honda parts, but the distributor does say “made in Japan.” Since it was replaced one year ago, I’m surprised it only lasted for such a short time. If I get a new distributor, should I get a cheapo one or a genuine Honda made part?
What part inside the distributor is failing? Can I just replace that part instead of the whole distributor? It’s pricy.
Yes to the answer about clicking. I do hear the fuel pump for a second after the key is turned, as it should.
I’m suspecting the culprit to be the idle-air-control-valve. Today, I found out that whenever I have trouble with hot-start, I can get the engine fired up by slightly pressing down on the gas pedal with cranking. If I give too much gas, it will not start.
u should run a search and see the other grip load of threads about mfr’s and distributor issues. and kbd8… just cuz urs needed a mfr doesn’t mean his needs one too. especially if he has a good working one in there currently.
regarding ur bad idle issues during the first 30 seconds or so, thats caused by ur FITV (fast idle thermal valve), u should search FITV like on the teg tips and it’ll explain it all in detail how to fix it and how it looks. FITV controls ur idle when the engine is cold.
if u are CERTAIN that ur distributor and ur MFR are good, it could be ur fuel pump that is bad.