theres a plastic “shield” over the coil/icm in the better of the two distributor and it wont come off
Take the rotor off first.
The plastic part just clips on.
Spin your rotor around 180 (crank the engine), and there is a screw in the shaft, you get to it from the firewall side. Be careful or you will strip the head of the screw.
already tried to take the screw off, doesnt budge.
the 2nd distributor i had, it doesnt have that sheild, but all the connectors onto the ICM are extremly tight and wont come off
You will need to get the screw off. Try some penetrating oil (not wd-40).
On mine, when I first got it, I had to cut a slot in it with a dremel and use a flathead screwdriver. I buggered the philips head on it. On another one, I had to use vice grips to get it off. Its such soft metal they use for that screw.
That was why I said to get the allen head screw when you do get it off. Less chance of screwing it up (pun intended).
i am picking up a parts car this weekend that will have a MFR on it, I am just going to wait and try it first.
my thought is there isnt hardly any chance it could be the coil/ignitor/icm, anything with the distributor itself. i had a extra distributor that came from another engine i bought that i knew for a fact worked 100%, that is why i saved it in my garage. when i put that know good working distributor on still the same issue, so i highly highly doubt it is the distributor or anything in it.
i am leaning more towards the MFR.
:whisper: If you’re still not getting any codes, try swapping the ECU.
tried another MFR just know and it still has no spark so the ECU is probably next on the list.
Cool, well not really but… I wanted you to try the cheap easy things first that I have had to do at least once before getting a new ECU. Unless you have an actual break in the wiring harness, that sounds like your next step.
:rant: Depends what you consider cheap.
My first ECU costs me $20 bucks at a pick N pull yard. (PO6)
Sold it on EBay for $50, then I picked up my replacement ECU for $40 bucks.
And there were no breaks in my wiring harness either.
Sometimes sh*t just happens I guess.
Link to my car wont start thread. Same symtoms.
.
What I consider cheap:
- recrimp the connectors to the ICM (free if you have basic tools)
- resolder the joints to the MFR (free if you have the ability to solder)
That was what I was referring to. No big deal, just that I would hate for him to spend the time trying to find another ECU, to find out that all he needed was to open the distributor and squeeze some connectors with a pair of pliers.
I have never had my ECU go out on me finds wood and knocks profusely but have had to recrimp the connectors to my ICM 2 times, and resolder the MFR once in the last year. Also replaced the ICM because of bad connections to it 2 times in the last year. Replaced the coil once because it was out of spec, and would not fire.
I have run into so many people buying things they didn’t need (worked in auto parts for ~6 years). I just hate to see people buying needless things without testing them, to find out there was a simple (cheap) fix.
In this case, and I am sure in future cases for people that see this thread later, that they will need to get an ECU. But for the one person that sees to test other parts, and it indeed does fix their problem, I am sure they will be thankful that someone mentioned to try testing some other parts before jumping to the ECU.
I never said there were, I was just saying that it was a possibility. I directed it to the OP.
Exactly, that was why I said what I did. Who knows, the firewall grommet that the wires go through could have come off, and after 6 months of rubbing grounded out some wires. Sh*t does happen, and for the unlucky ones, it happens often.
anyway to check to see if the ECU is faulty?
with the key in the ON position the Check engine light is always on, and when looking for codes the light is just solid on as well. when i unplug/remove the ECU the light goes off.
any way to tell if its bad?
Do you know anyone that has an OBD1 Honda/Acura?
Try swapping ECUs to test if your ECU is at fault.
Here’s a few OBD1 options you can try.
92-95 Civic
92-95 Integra
94-95 Accord
92-95 Prelude
i am going to try and get a hold of one tommorow hopefully
[QUOTE=Da9tegra;1686310]anyway to check to see if the ECU is faulty?
with the key in the ON position the Check engine light is always on, and when looking for codes the light is just solid on as well. when i unplug/remove the ECU the light goes off.
any way to tell if its bad?[/QUOTE]
I went through the helms this morning for you. The only time it should “just stay on” is if you have blown the ECM fuse under the hood.
Check that, or no. 24 fuse under dash. The helms goes on after checking that, to check 3 sensors, and a few connections, then replace the ECM.
You really need a helms manual. Starting at page 11-48, you have a nice flow chart to go through.
lol, i have a helms manual.
and i did figure out what is wrong with it, the ECU is DEAD.
i just picked up a swapped Hatch this afternoon and it has a OBD1 ECU in it, threw it in the teg and it started, it ran like ass but it start and run.
I am now going to pick up a crome chipped one from xenocron.
:manual: Getting back on the road soon now huh?
YW btw
just waiting for xenocron to get back to me then i will get a new ecu for it.
[QUOTE=Da9tegra;1688568]lol, i have a helms manual.
[/QUOTE]
WTF?!?
You have the helms manual, but you didn’t even bother to use it, you just asked people here? Thats fu**ed up. I sat for 30 minutes reading and retyping how to check various parts for you (see post #8 and #35), only to find out you had the damned thing in your possession. You could have looked it up yourself.
I am going to start replying to posts with, “Do you have a helms manual?”. If they answer yes, just tell them to :bigread:
Thats just fu**ed up man.
LoL, I told him a few times on page 1 to swap the ECU already.
But I feel you operator207, a simple TY would have been nice. 