Thanks man. I appreciate the info. Am taking it out this afternoon.
Chris…What is siloam?
i had a old college buddy who used the screen name sethman2000, just figured you were him, sorry man , nice build btw
The difference will be a leaner tune because of the 100cc of increased displacement. jdecks23 method is exactly how I do it and I wish someone had told me that when I built my first engine. Would have saved me a complete build.
[QUOTE=jdecks23;2308519]This sounds trivial but it’s not. You spent all that time and money (and did a great job) being organized and meticulous. You really need to take the same approach with the break in. I don’t know where people get the whole “break in” requires babying the motor for 500 miles thing from. It’s completely wrong and if done correctly, you could throw any amount of boost or whatever the same day it get’s broken in. If you want to do it right take it to the dyno after running it for a few minutes at idle to check for leaks etc. Once you get on the dyno, they can get the mixture perfect and you immediately take it to full tilt and the rings will seal nicely. That’s it, done. This will give you the best case scenario for a strong long lasting motor. It’s the difference between being one of those people posting random oil issues coming up a year later to you being able to tell people it pulls hard with no issues and you’ve never had a single problem with it for many years to come.
What you don’t realize is that whatever you believe, your mixture is not perfect. The ratio could be a bit rich (hopefully not lean) and based on the fact that it’s not perfect it absolutely could be too rich. This will wash out the rings and they won’t seal perfectly. In addition, you need to take it to red line to get the rings to seal, so all the babying is only giving you less of a chance to have them seal correctly. Hopefully you haven’t already compromised the new motor. It comes down to two things:
- You seal the rings by beating on it hard right away, first day, “break-in” is done. Not by babying it.
- You can’t even attempt to seal the rings and go 100% throttle unless the tune is 100% correct.
This usually leads to the same answer. The correct way to do it is to bring it to the tuner/dyno asap after the motor is running. Break it in, tune it, go home and change your oil, enjoy. When I broke in my motor, I ran it at idle to test for leaks etc for a few minutes at a time. I then put it right on a tow truck and took it to my tuner. Yes, that’s right I put it on a tow truck so that the very first revs going past idle were done 100% correctly.
Hopefully, this makes sense as I am just trying to help and clear up misconceptions since you spent so much money and time on a clean build 
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Thumbs ups this is good info.
Ok, got the exhaust finished… had to fabricate a custom cat delete. Thermostat was stuck closed, replaced. Cam seals were leaking so replaced and re torqued the head to 80. Still running smooth as silk. Pulled the plugs and piston heads appear very clean. Should be good to go. I will be taking to tuner here in a few days. Thanks all!