So finally it happened the b16 finally got turned over. 3 years in the buying/making, the motor part of it is done:
(I’ve listed this endless times so Ill keep it brief)
bottom end balanced and rotating assembly
cp pistons (~9:1)
block guard (No over heating yet and I still haven’t hooked the fan up even and Im running a dual core half size del sol radiator from autozone:))
SuperTech Valves (dished), Retainers, Springs
port and polish
other misc bullshit as well.
Added 4 quarts to the new motor (10w-30) unplugged the dissy. Cranked and cranked and cranked, the oil light would not turn off. Checked oil… Duh needed another quarter. Oil is good now, crank, crank, crank, oil light is off. Dissy plugged back in. Crank crank, bang clang, its running. Idled the car @3k for 5 minutes… No leaks or anything so I went and beat the shit out of it.
Threw one code… 21, vtec pressure got swapped wth the signal no big deal.
Fixed it, still beating the shit out of it, no codes, no problems, no leaks, no usuall smoke, everything seems a go.
Im running a stock p28 and my NGK are gapped at 44.
What did I do wrong in YOUR opinion?
When should I change my oil?
Is the p28 unchipped ok?
and yes this a FI car. There is no turbo on it now, I wanted to break it in first without the kit and make sure it was “all good”
thats awesome man. i cant waait to get my b18a in that i fully rebuilt myself. i hope it goes as clean as yours did with no problumes. keep beatin the snot outa it but i would listen to xenocron and get the correct ecu before driving it more… u dont wanan mess up your whole 3 years of building becuase of that. that would be a bummer. how does she pull tho? is it what you expected so far?
I read this on a signature once…“If you break her in soft she will always want it soft, if you break her in hard she will always be screaming wanting more!!” but for real…you should take it kind of easy for the first 1000 miles at least…and im pretty sure you should change your oil after about 1000 too and make sure to keep an eye on your oil because i think it will burn it until your rings get nice and seated in there…hth
I realize what my ECU is, but I was told that Id be ok by many people. That a p28 with 9:1 CR should be plenty fine if not rich…
:shrug: Why? :shrug:
dseries injectors are XXXccs and bseries are what 290cc? (bseries being bigger)
If my p28 is telling my bigger injectors to run x amount of fuel through my bigger injector, more fuel is getting into the motor, thus making it run richer… [b]This is what I was told over the phone maybe I understood it wrong or Im not grasping the concept; my friend has the same problem but it was a GSR ecu in a 95 h22a[/b]
Im going to change my oil tomorrow… Ill have a pic of the GE drain plug too!
Anyhow thanks for the responses and maybe well figure out this ECU thing… I need to get it chipped for uberdata anyways… (Too bad Chrome and Turboedit wasnt around when I planned this build; Fucking obd0-obd1 BS!)
Id listin to xenocron if i was you. hes a smart dude about this shizzlenizzle… and you can sell that ecu u have for like 150 or sumthin… and get the correct one for near that… right? i sold a p28 for like 175 i think on ebay… like i said b4 i just wouldnt risk a fresh motor with the ecu that was not made for it…
Reving it on break in is a good way to seat the rings… But you don’t wanna jstu keep bagging on it. you wanna rev it up in egar then let teh gear whien itself back down to 2000 or so then do it again. start out by winding it out to 4-5 then move higher up later on… That’s what most ppl seem to do. Just remmebr to do a leakdown test after breakin tos ee how well everythnig has sealed