Thought a lot of you would find this interesting. Leo (93B18) sent me his GSR YS1 Transmission to swap in the LS 5th gear. I tore it apart this weekend and went to town. All finished now. Leo, my mail at home is still not working, so hopefully you see this. The tranny will go out with UPS on Monday…3 day select.
Original GSR YS1 Gearing right after opening the casing…
Clean Casing ready for the gears to be reinstalled…
GSR YS1 mainshaft 5th gear (top) vs. the LS 5th gear (bottom)…
LS countershaft 5th gear (top) vs. The GSR YS1 5th gear (bottom)…
Mainshaft assembled with LS 5th Gear & new bearings…
Countershat assembled with LS 5th Gear and new bearings…
Almost done…everything back in & lubed…ready to be covered up…
All done…cleaned casing, reassembled and ready to install.
This isn’t something I recommend most people do themselves. It takes time and the right tools, as well as tranny knowledge. If you are interested in learning, shoot me an e-mail and I’ll tell you what you need.
The band aid was a result of the damn sharp tranny casing. OUCH. Don’t worry Leo, I didn’t bleed over any of your internals.
And about showing off…I can’t help it. I’m proud of my work
Wow Dan, i give you props. last time i messed around with the gears it took forever! i will never ever mess with that again unless i’m bored…but leo you will love the gearing on it…its the shiz man! Give props to all of you guys. Dan give me some more time on the LSD…runnig to some A$$ holes that are giving me hard times now!
Originally posted by G2guru
[B]This isn’t something I recommend most people do themselves. It takes time and the right tools, as well as tranny knowledge. If you are interested in learning, shoot me an e-mail and I’ll tell you what you need.
The band aid was a result of the damn sharp tranny casing. OUCH. Don’t worry Leo, I didn’t bleed over any of your internals.
And about showing off…I can’t help it. I’m proud of my work [/B]
But you said your E-Mail wasn’t working…
Once Email is working please Send me all info you can for this swap to webhitch@hotmail.com …
Leo: Thanks. I didn’t get your e-mail, but the old nut worked fine. No problems there. Everything went real smooth. And don’t worry about the cut…happens all the time. I haven’t done one tranny where I haven’t cut myself. Your synchros looked “okay”. Not good, not bad…just in between. The gears looked good. Let’s put it this way…I wouldn’t doubt if it started to grind in another 30,000 - 40,000 miles under hard driving conditions. Your bearings were SHOT. I mean bad. So it’s a good thing you had me swap new ones in. I didn’t get a new shift shaft seal from you…but the old one looked great. Like I said, the tranny will be going out UPS 3 day select today after work.
It seems like there is a lot of interest for “how to” do the gear swap. Well, first thing you have to do is pull your transmission. If you don’t know how or can’t do that, don’t attempt the rest. Once you have the tranny out and on a work bench…lay the bell housing face down on 2 2x4s (one on each end). If you don’t use the 2x4s, the mainshaft will hit the bench and the tranny will rock back and fourth. Not good. Before you have done this you should have removed the 12mm bolt inside the bell housing holding the TO Bearing and TO bearing release arm. Now, remove the two shift shaft fork bearing bolts (12mm) and the reverse gear bolt (14mm). These are on the side of the transmission housing with aluminum washers behind them. Using a 1/2" drive ratchet, remove the countershaft snap ring access bolt on the top of the transmission. Use a cresent wrench and pull the reverse light switch (the only thing with wires coming off of the transmission). Once you have all of that done, remove the brackets and set them aside. Finally, unbolt all of the transmission casing bolts in a criss-cross pattern. Using a pair of snap ring pliers, remove the snap ring from the countershaft through the countershaft snap ring access hole at the top of the tranny. Now carefully pry the casing apart. It should lift right off. Now you have access to the gears and such. Remove the 2 10mm bolts holding the reverse gear release fork. Remove the 3 10mm bolts holding the gear selector mechanism. Remove the reverse gear release fork and the gear selector mechanism. Now grab onto the main and countershaft and pull up. Be careful, they are sharp. They will pull up and out of the transmission casing. Once out, set them on a clean surface. Remove the Differential from the casing. This is when I clean the casing, but it’s entirely up to you. Now using a rag in a vice (see pictures above) put the mainshaft into the vice. Use a bearing puller and pull the upper mainshaft bearing. Slide the synchro ring off and low and behold…5th gear. If 5th gear doesn’t just pull off, use the bearing puller and remove it that way. After lubing LS 5th gear, slide it onto the mainshaft. Slide the syncho and new bearing back on. If the bearing doesn’t go on easily, use a rubber mallet and a bearing driver. On the countershaft you have to remove the 32mm locknut at the top of the assembly. To do this, first unspike the locknut. Then after the countershaft is in a vice, use an impact wrench to remove it. It’s torqued to 80ft-lbs, so removing it without an impact gun is going to be difficult. Once it’s off, remove the washer and two bearings above the 5th gear using the bearing puller. Once it’s off, use the bearing puller to pull 5th gear. Slide the LS 5th gear onto the assembly and use the bearing/gear driver to push it down. Repeat with the two new bearings (needle bearing first). Slide the washer over it and put the new locknut on. Torque to 80ft-lbs and spike the locknut. Put the differential back into the transmission casing (make sure it’s seated all the way). Put the mainshaft and countershaft toghther as they would be inside the transmission, and put the shift forks on as they would go on. Hold onto the entire assembly and slide it back into the transmission housing making sure that the reverse gear makes it back on there as well as the two washers at the bottom of the mainshaft. It is good to have someone help with this step as it gets kind of interesting trying to get everything aligned correctly. Once it’s aligned, it will drop into the casing without hesitation. The rest is opposite of removal. Make sure everything is clean and follow the manual otherwise. Also, make sure when putting the casing back together to open the snap ring when you are pushing the casing back down. Do not attempt this project without the Helms manual. Best of luck.
Originally posted by G2guru
It seems like there is a lot of interest for “how to” do the gear swap. Well, first thing you have to do is pull your transmission. If you don’t know how or can’t do that, don’t attempt the rest. Once you have the tranny out and on a work bench…lay the bell housing face down on 2 2x4s (one on each end). If you don’t use the 2x4s, the mainshaft will hit the bench and the tranny will rock back and fourth. Not good. Before you have done this you should have removed the 12mm bolt inside the bell housing holding the TO Bearing and TO bearing release arm. Now, remove the two shift shaft fork bearing bolts (12mm) and the reverse gear bolt (14mm). These are on the side of the transmission housing with aluminum washers behind them. Using a 1/2" drive ratchet, remove the countershaft snap ring access bolt on the top of the transmission. Use a cresent wrench and pull the reverse light switch (the only thing with wires coming off of the transmission). Once you have all of that done, remove the brackets and set them aside. Finally, unbolt all of the transmission casing bolts in a criss-cross pattern. Using a pair of snap ring pliers, remove the snap ring from the countershaft through the countershaft snap ring access hole at the top of the tranny. Now carefully pry the casing apart. It should lift right off. Now you have access to the gears and such. Remove the 2 10mm bolts holding the reverse gear release fork. Remove the 3 10mm bolts holding the gear selector mechanism. Remove the reverse gear release fork and the gear selector mechanism. Now grab onto the main and countershaft and pull up. Be careful, they are sharp. They will pull up and out of the transmission casing. Once out, set them on a clean surface. Remove the Differential from the casing. This is when I clean the casing, but it’s entirely up to you. Now using a rag in a vice (see pictures above) put the mainshaft into the vice. Use a bearing puller and pull the upper mainshaft bearing. Slide the synchro ring off and low and behold…5th gear. If 5th gear doesn’t just pull off, use the bearing puller and remove it that way. After lubing LS 5th gear, slide it onto the mainshaft. Slide the syncho and new bearing back on. If the bearing doesn’t go on easily, use a rubber mallet and a bearing driver. On the countershaft you have to remove the 32mm locknut at the top of the assembly. To do this, first unspike the locknut. Then after the countershaft is in a vice, use an impact wrench to remove it. It’s torqued to 80ft-lbs, so removing it without an impact gun is going to be difficult. Once it’s off, remove the washer and two bearings above the 5th gear using the bearing puller. Once it’s off, use the bearing puller to pull 5th gear. Slide the LS 5th gear onto the assembly and use the bearing/gear driver to push it down. Repeat with the two new bearings (needle bearing first). Slide the washer over it and put the new locknut on. Torque to 80ft-lbs and spike the locknut. Put the differential back into the transmission casing (make sure it’s seated all the way). Put the mainshaft and countershaft toghther as they would be inside the transmission, and put the shift forks on as they would go on. Hold onto the entire assembly and slide it back into the transmission housing making sure that the reverse gear makes it back on there as well as the two washers at the bottom of the mainshaft. It is good to have someone help with this step as it gets kind of interesting trying to get everything aligned correctly. Once it’s aligned, it will drop into the casing without hesitation. The rest is opposite of removal. Make sure everything is clean and follow the manual otherwise. Also, make sure when putting the casing back together to open the snap ring when you are pushing the casing back down. Do not attempt this project without the Helms manual. Best of luck.
Gee Dan. You make it sound simple. HAHAHAHA.
Really though. Great work. I wonder sometimes where you learned all this stuff.
My woman bought me the 2 Volume 1992 Acura Integra manual from Acura. Now that I know what all those parts you listed are, I’m tempted to try this on my own. I won’t be trying it for a while, cause I’m sure I’d need more time than a weekend. But thanks for laying down all the info. I’m sure posting that one paragraph will cut your email down by half.
Originally posted by G2guru
[B]Leo: Thanks. I didn’t get your e-mail, but the old nut worked fine. No problems there. Everything went real smooth. And don’t worry about the cut…happens all the time. I haven’t done one tranny where I haven’t cut myself. Your synchros looked “okay”. Not good, not bad…just in between. The gears looked good. Let’s put it this way…I wouldn’t doubt if it started to grind in another 30,000 - 40,000 miles under hard driving conditions. Your bearings were SHOT. I mean bad. So it’s a good thing you had me swap new ones in. I didn’t get a new shift shaft seal from you…but the old one looked great. Like I said, the tranny will be going out UPS 3 day select today after work.
It seems like there is a lot of interest for “how to” do the gear swap. Well, first thing you have to do is pull your transmission. If you don’t know how or can’t do that, don’t attempt the rest. Once you have the tranny out and on a work bench…lay the bell housing face down on 2 2x4s (one on each end). If you don’t use the 2x4s, the mainshaft will hit the bench and the tranny will rock back and fourth. Not good. Before you have done this you should have removed the 12mm bolt inside the bell housing holding the TO Bearing and TO bearing release arm. Now, remove the two shift shaft fork bearing bolts (12mm) and the reverse gear bolt (14mm). These are on the side of the transmission housing with aluminum washers behind them. Using a 1/2" drive ratchet, remove the countershaft snap ring access bolt on the top of the transmission. Use a cresent wrench and pull the reverse light switch (the only thing with wires coming off of the transmission). Once you have all of that done, remove the brackets and set them aside. Finally, unbolt all of the transmission casing bolts in a criss-cross pattern. Using a pair of snap ring pliers, remove the snap ring from the countershaft through the countershaft snap ring access hole at the top of the tranny. Now carefully pry the casing apart. It should lift right off. Now you have access to the gears and such. Remove the 2 10mm bolts holding the reverse gear release fork. Remove the 3 10mm bolts holding the gear selector mechanism. Remove the reverse gear release fork and the gear selector mechanism. Now grab onto the main and countershaft and pull up. Be careful, they are sharp. They will pull up and out of the transmission casing. Once out, set them on a clean surface. Remove the Differential from the casing. This is when I clean the casing, but it’s entirely up to you. Now using a rag in a vice (see pictures above) put the mainshaft into the vice. Use a bearing puller and pull the upper mainshaft bearing. Slide the synchro ring off and low and behold…5th gear. If 5th gear doesn’t just pull off, use the bearing puller and remove it that way. After lubing LS 5th gear, slide it onto the mainshaft. Slide the syncho and new bearing back on. If the bearing doesn’t go on easily, use a rubber mallet and a bearing driver. On the countershaft you have to remove the 32mm locknut at the top of the assembly. To do this, first unspike the locknut. Then after the countershaft is in a vice, use an impact wrench to remove it. It’s torqued to 80ft-lbs, so removing it without an impact gun is going to be difficult. Once it’s off, remove the washer and two bearings above the 5th gear using the bearing puller. Once it’s off, use the bearing puller to pull 5th gear. Slide the LS 5th gear onto the assembly and use the bearing/gear driver to push it down. Repeat with the two new bearings (needle bearing first). Slide the washer over it and put the new locknut on. Torque to 80ft-lbs and spike the locknut. Put the differential back into the transmission casing (make sure it’s seated all the way). Put the mainshaft and countershaft toghther as they would be inside the transmission, and put the shift forks on as they would go on. Hold onto the entire assembly and slide it back into the transmission housing making sure that the reverse gear makes it back on there as well as the two washers at the bottom of the mainshaft. It is good to have someone help with this step as it gets kind of interesting trying to get everything aligned correctly. Once it’s aligned, it will drop into the casing without hesitation. The rest is opposite of removal. Make sure everything is clean and follow the manual otherwise. Also, make sure when putting the casing back together to open the snap ring when you are pushing the casing back down. Do not attempt this project without the Helms manual. Best of luck. [/B]
Hey Dan how long did this take you to do ??? Im waiting to have it done to my tranny ( JDM s1 )in about 3-4 months when i re-do my whole motor…Im not sure if your up for another one or not but if you wouldn’t mind doing it for me just let me know how much and about how long it would take you to do…
p.s. Leo if you could let me know what part numbers i will need for the 5th gear and synchros i would like to replace all of them… integster@yahoo.com
integster: As for the parts numbers, email mikek@typerparts.com for them. He can beat the prices of your local Acura dealer since he practically gives them away at near cost. You just have to wait a bit since they don’t usually stock the LS 5th there. Otherwise, he’s cool. Email him.
JP240: If you are interested, I will do it for you. Shoot me an e-mail sometime soon. daniel.platt@opbu.xerox.com
Integster: The job took me about 4 hours…even with my normal meticulous fashion. I check and double check everything. You can never be too careful with the transmission. I will do this for anyone that needs it done and doesn’t want to pay a fortune. It would be a lot cheaper if you lived near me (no shipping costs), but even still I think it’s much cheaper than a shop would charge. Soot me an e-mail if you are interested.
G2Teg: You forgot BIG flat head screwdriver to pry the casing apart, a telescoping magnet, axle seal driver, chisel, hammer, Honda Bond, Factory Service Manual (Helms), moly grease, and a torque wrench good from 9 - 80ft-lbs. A vice would be very handy, and loads of clean rags. Also, keep some band aids handy…hehehehe
Phil: Thanks for the compliments. Let me know what you can work out on that LSD. Thanks again.
Steve: The tranny was the final frontier. I started digging into them about a year ago when my friend needed a JDM final drive installed into his 2001 ITR. heheheh. Ever since then I’ve been ripping them apart like they were anything else on the car. Sometimes it scares me how much I can remember. Most of the time I don’t even need the Helms manual. I can remember most torque specs and order of things in my head. That saves me a bunch of install time because I’m doing none of this…:read:
Leo: I’ll e-mail you and tell you all about the details, that and I have your tracking number ready for you. You should have the transmission by Thursday.
2 2x4’s
10mm Socket
12mm Socket
14mm Socket
32mm Socket
Cresent wrench (some people would call this an ajustable wrench)
Snap ring pliers
bearing puller
rubber mallet
bearing driver
impact wrench
Big Flathead Screw driver
Telescoing Magnet
Axle Seal Driver
Chisel
Hammer
Honda Bond
Helms Manual
Moly Grease
Torque Wrench good to 80 Ft/lbs
Vice
Lot-o-Rags
Band Aids
[/B]