Hey there guys just thought i would post my setup which has now been finalized…the teg goes in on Feb.18.2002 for the work…here is a list of what i have and the stuff going in my car…enjoy!!!
'92 LS/VTEC: WHAT’S IN ALREADY
b16a head
aem cam gears
aem c.a.i.
b&m fuel press. reg.
airmass header
thermal cat back
test pipe
apex-i v-afc
WOW!..well there it is i will be posting dyno results shortly after…im sure a few will be interested…let me know what ya think of the setup…hoping to hit 210whp…we’ll have to see.
sounds like a damn good setup, and a big funds drop for u, if u have n e extra $$ left over might want to invest in an a/f guage and an oil pressure guage just to keep close tabs on that ls/vtec monster thats brewing under the hood.
Andy
thanks for the feedback man, actually i already have both gauges mounted and ready to go from last year… im thinking of adding e/g/t gauge what do you think?..i seem to be one step ahead!
u r deffinetly one step ahead of the game, its late and i can’t think of what an e/g/t guage is please explain.
If u have aol im i wouldn’t mind looking at some pics of your car and stuff if u have some.
Andy
EGT is exhaust gas temperature. In my experience they are a lot more useful than air/fuel gages for tuning information- and warning of possible damage. The heat is what causes the damage after all. Things get really hot when you’re running lean.
Nice setup, but, you’re having a shop do it? I think I would do most of the myself with the exception of the p&ping and other machining. What ECU are you using and is it chipped? I’m curious of how high you’ll be revving your setup.
WHITEYG2RS: to answer your questions the guy doing it for me is a genius…really ive done my research he’s the best in town he has a 500hp turbo hatch civic in which he custom built his manifold and intake manifold www.tappauto.com check him out he’s awesome with honda engines…my ecu is out of a 95 gsr its a p72, no it is not chipped…ill probably be looking to rev to about 8200-8400 around there for now… the z10 crank girdle is going to help in that department …and the hondata is going to let me go quite high so we’ll see!..thanks again.
Only thing I would change is the piston C/R. Those Skunk2 Stage 2 cams have a similar profile to the JUN 3s and those cams work best with C/R’s above 11.5:1 at the least. Otherwise you may not see the full potential of the Skunks until you let that motor BREATHE. If you are worried about pinging/detonation on the street, I’m sure you can run up to as high as 11.8:1 safely especially since you will be running 270s and the Hondata. It’s all in the tuning.
Wise decision on the Z10 girdle. What header to you plan on running?
Nice setup overall…it sounds like it’s gonna rip! Good luck with the rest of the buildup!
thanks for the reply 93B18…my mechanic figured that i should go with this compression due to the head that i am using b16…let me know otherwise if he is right or not or why he would recomend this compression i just took his advice let me know…as for the header for now its a 4-2-1 airmass header but i will probably get into the jdm 4-1 header…thanks again!
gen2teg: Go at least 11.3:1 and if possible up to 11.8:1 as I mentioned before. Those Stage 2s will work best if you allow your lstec to BREATHE. The JDM 4-1 would compliment it as well. From what I’ve seen and heard most people running the high profile cams such as the JUN3s (similar profile to the Skunk2 Stage 2 cams) don’t see the potential of the cams until they really get the motor into the high C/Rs. A local motor builder here who showed me a dyno sheet of a stock US ITR who did the JUN3 valvetrain, JDM 4-1, I/E and after a few hours of tuning, could only get a 7whp difference over his previous I/H/E setup. Well good luck with your setup! Besides resleeving (and you only really need to do this if you’re boosting), she looks bulletproof!
thanks again man for your knowledgable reply…my main purpose is that i drive my car mainly in town and rev the motor more often than not and i only get a chance to go to the track maybe twice a week so for my purpose mid range power isn’t so bad? let me know what you think…by the way hows your project coming along?..last i heard you were rebuilding your motor too…let me know how its going…again thanks for the help 93B18!
No problem. With the lstec, you will have no problem with low to midrange power. When I had my previous lsvtec in the car, soon after breaking it in, I revved the damn thing to past 8K at almost every freeway onramp. Damn thing just picked up STRONG and HARD especially with the Mugen chip and I never had VTEC on my car before, so I was lovin’ the strong pick up, VTEC, all the way to redline. But after a week or so, I hardly ever got on her anymore since I don’t really see a need to rev past 6K when daily driving. Every now and then I’ll put her in the 8K range but never really needed to unless I was racing or something. I’m sure when all is said and done, you’ll love the power your LSVTEC will give you. It’s a great setup when built right!!
As far as my LSVTEC rebuild is going, it’s gonna be a totally refreshed LS block…fully built also! I pretty much have the same setup as you except the cams, compression, and Z10 girdle.
Give your motor more compression and I’m sure after tuning, you’ll hit low 200s in whp with a great tq curve!
thanks again man!..question for you in terms of oil pump i currently have my stock ls oil pump on, would it be wise to upgrade to a gsr oil pump from what ive heard its pretty smart to do for only 160 from the dealer i get one brand new…can you tell me why it would be worth getting??..would i be a able to raise the compression by getting a thinner head gasket or would it be better to go higher compression pistons?? and why??..and what kind of cams are you running??..good luck with your setup…what kind of hp are you aiming for??..let me know.
I would definitely recommend going with a Type-R oil pump. You would want to avoid oil starvation (spun bearings) at all costs. A Type-R pump at the dealer goes for $80-100 US here at the dealer depending on your discount.
You can only raise compression so much with an aftermarket gasket or milling the head. With a Spoon 1-ply, you will raise C/R by 0.3 points. I would recommend just getting higher compression pistons. Reason why is with milling the head or running a thinner gasket, #1 common sense tells me that a stock 3-ply gasket is more reliable than a 1-ply gasket, #2 piston to valve clearances you may encounter with a milled head (depending on how far you are going to take off) and you won’t be able to resurface the head as much in the future if need be.
I don’t want to give away what cams I’m going to be using but I’ll tell you this. Looking at the cam profiles, it should give me really nice midrange numbers but not as high a peak number if I compare them to JUN3s or Toda Bs. But that’s not what I’m looking for anyways. I want more area under the curve…more midrange since I’m not going to be revving to 8500 rpm all the time. But decent peak hp numbers too. A lot of folks look at a dyno chart and see what the motor makes at 8400-9000 rpms and not the rest of the chart. That’s more what I’m interested in…good strong pull from 3K on and not just the peak number.
I’m looking at high 180s to low 190s realistically after tuning.
hey 93b18 i was just wondering how you wired up the knock sensor? i’ve had my setup for about 5 months and my mechanic doesn’t know how to bypass the knock sensor and he’s a honda tech. so if you know i’d like to know or if anyone else knows. thanks!
according to C-Speed Racing’s How-To site on LS/VTEC buildups, you can use one of the alternator bracket holes to tap in for a knock sensor.
B17A knock sensor location:
B18A available location (running certain ecu programs will also allow you to bypass the knock sensor, check with manufacturers of ecu programs/chips to see if it’s available):
93B18: just wondering what’s the difference between say the 92-96 oil pump which was recomended for my setup and the type r oil pump??..let me know…thanks again!
ibekdogg: I left the knock sensor out. It actually only retards timing a couple degrees at the most so I don’t really see a need for it. As long as your fuel management is up to par, you don’t really need it IMHO. A few options you can go for to bypass the sensor.
#1 You can have your knock sensor disabled by having a competent ECU programmer rechip your ECU.
#2 You can do what zoom recommended on c-speedracing. You can actually tap any hole behind the block. Just be safe where you drill and make sure it’s a good ground.
#3 Pick up a P28 ECU and have it programmed to DOHC VTEC specs. The P28 doesn’t run a knock sensor.
gen2teg: Some say the oil pump gears and reliefs are the same on the LS oil pumps as all other VTEC pumps. But I compared my old LS pump with my B17A pump carefully and the reliefs are very very similar but not the same. I’m not sure what the differences are between the B16A and B17A pumps vs the G3 GSR and Type R pumps, but my motor builder recommended I just have a new Type R pump installed in the refreshed motor over reusing my old B17A oil pump. It’s not very expensive and you’ll have a brand new pump with your freshly rebuilt motor so why not? It was a “might as well” thing for me.
93B18- just wondering if you knew this answer…i got some '98 prelude injectors for my teg and wondered what size they might be i was told 270cc adjustable to 310cc with fuel pressure regulator…anyway let me know!
