just got my ls vetc running and i have 2 problems first of all when i rev it up oil slowly leaks from the back of the head right above where the oil press sending unit is located making me think that i need to “Port Match” my head gasket. Also I am using my stock 90 ls computer and a vafc but my vtec will not come on all of my signals and wiring is right but i read in honda tuner that it is also necessary to have a knock sensor wired up to the ecu in order for that to happen I don’t even have a spot on my 90 block to put one. Anyone with any ideas or has a good running non leaking lsvtec please help me
Ok, I don’t know what you mean by “port matching” your head gasket…but that’s not necessary. Just use one for a LS motor. I also can’t figure out the exact location you are talking about the oil leaking. The oil pressure sender is on the back of the block…not the head. Describe it again or post a pic and I’ll tell you what I can.
As far as Vtec is concerned it’ll engage without a knock sensor. If you have the VAFC hooked up right it’ll engage too. So check your wiring again.
Good luck
i dont have an ls ecu, but I believe if you use it most who do get a “pill” from msd to engage it- dont know much else from there- really never had to look into it- good luck!
ls vtec leak
the leak is on the back side of the block where the head gasket is this is my 2nd b18a head gasket i’ve tried and they have both leaked the previous one mixed my oil and coolant this only leaks about a qt a week
Did you plug the vtec oil supply in the head?? Did you get the head resurfaced??
plug the VTEC oil line on the head (if not dun before) and get it resurfaced…
ls vtec help
the head has been milled and the block decked and yes it has been plugged my thought is that since it doesn’t leak at idle then when i rev it up oil is being caught by a lip of the gasket at the main oil supply journal which runs along the oil press sending unit and the extra pressure it has from being revved is causing the oil to be diverted under the gasket and leaking. as for my vtec i have yet to get it to work the vafc is recieving all of it’s signals as far as i can tell i have been over the wiring many times now and will continue to do so any thoughts or ideas would be greatly appreciated
What kind of head bolts are you using?? Are you using the vtec head bolts because that would make a difference…
ls vtec help
arp studs tq’d to 72
hmm…something sounds strange about the torque number…I could have sworn that the head bolts only torque down to about 61 ft/lbs…I’ll have to double check taht tomorrow to make sure…Double check to see if you use arp vtec head bolts…sometime they send you the wrong head bolts…happen to me…
What kind of ecu are you using?..this may be why your vtec isn’t kicking in?
gen2teg
ls vtec help
my head studs are for b18a1 and b18c according to the end of the box adn i am using a stock 90 ls ecu with vafc. The vfac is correctly wired after many times going over the wiring. I read in honda tuning that you need a knock sensor hooked up has anyone run into that problem. This week i am going to take it apart and replace the head gskt for the leak and get that straightened out. As for ecu what would be suggested to run the lsvtec i want my redline raised for sure
about the knock sensor, one can be screwed into one of the alternator bracket mounting bolt-holes.
You shouldn’t need a knock sensor because your non-VTEC ECU isn’t going to recognize it anyway.
I just did the same thing to my car, and you dont need the knock sensor to make the VTEC work, but i really suggest that you get a new ECU that will recognize and make it work…My suggestion is to get a PR3 ECU.
Originally posted by AiRacer02
I just did the same thing to my car, and you dont need the knock sensor to make the VTEC work, but i really suggest that you get a new ECU that will recognize and make it work…My suggestion is to get a PR3 ECU.
is that the ecu you’re running or are you just suggesting that? Cause I’ve got a pr3 ecu and i definately do not recommend it- I’m in the process of a obd0 to obd1 conversion to use a ls pr4 ecu and hondata stage 3 setup. Now $ for $ a pr3 will make a car run- but IMO that’s about all it’s good for considering the options available.
i am using a pr4 ao2 ecu i think that i have found my problem though i had the oil feed for the head going in the front instead of the rear(intake side) just because of the fittings that i had available at the time but when i get the motor back from the machine shop i will put it in from the rear. I am having head studs installed and block decked(had an oil leak) waiting for arp to send studs they are on backorder. When it was running though it would engage vtec but not all of the time out of like 10 tries it did it like 3 or 4.
What about those head studs?
Those ARP Head studs… If I’m not mistaken the b18a head studs won’t work on an Ls/VTEC… I thought u were supposed to used 94+ GSR head studs.
Someone correct me if I am wrong.
Re: What about those head studs?
Originally posted by Aut0tek
[B]Those ARP Head studs… If I’m not mistaken the b18a head studs won’t work on an Ls/VTEC… I thought u were supposed to used 94+ GSR head studs.
Someone correct me if I am wrong. [/B]
yep I dont remember using diff head studs- the best place to look is teg tips under ls vtec conversion its got all the necessary parts you need to get. And I would only look at buying aftermarket head studs if your current head studs are damaged or if you’re planning on some method of forced induction. HTH
Straight from the horses mouth…
Okay… So he’s not really the horse in question, but here’s what the first 2 lines from the teg tips reads:
For the LS/VTEC you’ll need the following:
- b16a/b18c/b17 head, cams, head bolts, cam seals, and ECU.
If u examine carefully… u need the HEAD BOLTS from a vtec head.
And if what 90lsvtec says is true…
“…my head studs are for b18a1 and b18c according to the end of the box…”
Then ARP screwed up. If the head bolts fit the b18a, they don’t fit the b18c. :-/
My suggestion… Check the box ur head bolts came in… make damn sure these things are for VTEC heads… They could be b18a head bolts, they could be b18c head bolts, they CANNOT be both.
Otherwise people would just manufacture “B-Series Head Bolts”
… Again, correct me if I’m wrong.
Harry