integguy: new update hehe…
I wasn’t turning the worng way, but the bracket was actually pressed against my rachet and blocking it. The caliper mounting bracket bolts have definitely never been removed before and there is a complete covering of rust around the bolt.
BTW yes I am coming inside to type out my progress. I work really slow when I don’t really know what I’m doing, and with only a Haynes manual, I’ll never know exactly what I’m doing hehehe.:rant:
Update 3: the ****ing bolt is completely stripped all the way around. It cannot come off with a socket. Are there any other options?
hmm, get in a time machine and re-do it. no really, i have no clue… maybe a vise-grip and then go buy some new bolts?
I just moved to the other side for now, and have run into another problem. The rear caliper piston will NOT turn. I have the brake fluid cap open to relieve pressure but it won’t budge. I’m starting to get frustrated with these damn brakes and I haven’t even started the fronts.
Well for starters anytime a single pad has uneven wear like you described, more pad on the top than the bottom, it’s typically a seized caliper. Also, if you’re trying to turn the rear piston back in try using some rust penetrant behind outter rubber boot. And finally, try loosening the bleeder bolt and then turning the piston, if that works be careful not to let the piston turn out even the slightest bit because you’ll need to bleed the brakes (but it might be worth the hassle if it works?). If you still don’t have any luck then that’s another sign of a seized caliper.
Is it the caliper bolt you think is stripped? It’s kind of hard to explain but it appears as if that bolt threads into a small rubber boot. Check to see if that metal piece ahead of it is spinning as you try to loosen the caliper bolt. I used to have many do that to me and would get scared only to realize I just needed to put a pair of vice grips on it to keep it from rotating.
for the front calipers you do not turn them. you simply push them back in. put some muscle into it!
for the rear you have to turn the piston clockwise to go in.
Leftcorner: The caliper bolts (with the rubber boot) came out fine. It’s the caliper mounting bracket bolt which stripped. It holds the pads around the rotor. You can’t get the rotor off with the mounting bracket on. I’m probably going to do the other 3 wheels and go to Monroe and ask them to get it off for me.
integguy91: I have only been working on the rear brakes. The piston won’t turn.
Also, when putting the mounting bracket back on (the side that isn’t stripped) the bolt is incredibly hard to turn. I think that my brakes have never been touched by the previous owner and have simply decided to take a **** on me.
Will give more updates as more things continue to go wrong.
Update 4: The rear pads can’t be put in because the damn piston won’t turn. The MC cap is open and I removed the brake fluid line at the caliper, but it still will not move. Could this be a seized caliper? If so, is there anything I can do to free it?
Update: The original lines are completely stuck. I have to go to the store and get a flare-nut wrench, cuz the regular wrenches just strip the nut. Why Honda put such a little piss-ant nut on these lines is beyond my understanding.
Update: The fronts ended up being a lot easier than the rears, but the lines will not budge.
Also my god damn drivers side CV boot is ripped and grease is absolutely everywhere. I have no clue how long it’s been ripped for, but I just can’t believe this ****. This is not related to my brake install, but actually a nice gift that my car gave me while I change its brakes.
Update: I hate my ****ing car and I want to tow it into the street and burn it. The damn rotor won’t become free because it’s welded to the hub. I know that there’s the two threaded holes to pry it off, but they aren’t threaded anymore because my rotors are in such bad shape. So I’m just putting a crowbar between them and slamming it with a hammer.
hmm, when i did the rears i got a “buff” screwdriver and went to work on em. the first turn is the hardest, but once it breaks free then it’s easy. as for your brake lines, i’ve never dealt with them, CV boot… get that changed, luckily you caught it before any damage occured.
Hehe…I just spent a few minutes and read through the entire thread, and it’s pretty funny to watch how I get more and more pissed off as more things go wrong.
Anyway, here are all my problems listing in order of me being ****ed by them:
)I think that is all so far. The passenger side front and rear brakes are finished excpept for the lines. The driver’s side front and rear and hindered by the aforementioned problems.