need help just finished abs delete but??????

ASSISTANCE Suspension, Brakes & Wheels
1

ok i just finished my abs delete on my 93 4 door but i am not getting any pressure and now the pedal is hard so i cant bleed it any ideas??? help me out have not drove the car in 3 months

list what i did the brake booster is abs and master is non abs brand new all lines are ran correct using non abs lines etc

any help would b kool mayb its my brake booster ? since im running a abs booster with a non-abs master

2

I think you answered your own question near the
tail end of your thread.
I’m not a 100% sure though, let one of the
“ABS delete guru’s” chime in though.

I’m too tired to search…

3

yea i wanna b 100% sure its that,im going to buy one but wanna be sure thats what causing the no pressure thanks

4

You definitely need to match the booster to the master. Honestly I would just change out the master to the ABS piece and flare a new fitting, the booster is a bit of a pain to swap

5

do u know where i can find that fitting i looked but i have no idea what i need

6

12mm x 1.0 metric inverted flare brake line nuts for 3/16" line

7

The Fitting is on the ABS brake line you just removed from the car.

Cut the old tubing, slide the fitting off, cut the flared tip off the new tubing, slide the correct fitting on, and use the flaring tool to flare the line again.

8

i would but i dont know how to do that or trust myself lol

9

Whether you buy a new fitting, or reuse the old one, the procedure to flare the line is the same. It’s not hard, uoi just need to buy or rent the double flaring tool.

Unless you meant you were looking for an ADAPTER (so you can screw the 10mm fitting into the 12mm Master cylinder.) instead of a fitting.

10

[QUOTE=1ntegra;2074321]Whether you buy a new fitting, or reuse the old one, the procedure to flare the line is the same. It’s not hard, uoi just need to buy or rent the double flaring tool.

Unless you meant you were looking for an ADAPTER (so you can screw the 10mm fitting into the 12mm Master cylinder.) instead of a fitting.[/QUOTE]

yes i want a fitting like u just said i tried a couple hardware store no luck, it been a couple months now i really miss driving my car after i got a ticket i started doing stuff that i should of let be lol

11

http://www.southco-ind.com/commerce/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=6949

BQ43 made by brake equip

http://www.brakequip.com/mfthread.html

12mm male to 10mm female

i have it but have not personally tested it.

12

[QUOTE=tilegend;2074452]http://www.southco-ind.com/commerce/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=6949

BQ43 made by brake equip

http://www.brakequip.com/mfthread.html

12mm male to 10mm female

i have it but have not personally tested it.[/QUOTE]

thanks u so much all i gotta do is exchange my new master for a abs one thanks again :hugs:

13

bump,need help again i tried to order the adapter fitting but it said i had to buy at least 10 what a bucha BS. So my buddy gave me a nonabs booster but i cant find a way to take it off without removing the im any help thanks or if you got that fitting ill buy one from you for 4 shipped … just cause the place i was gonna order it from wanted 2.43+shipped maybe like 40 cents

14

Getting the booster out with the intake manifold there is a nightmare. I invented quite a few new curse words while replacing mine.

Here is how I was finally able to get mine out.

  1. Remove master cylinder and everything that is around the brake booster so you have room to work Remove the U shaped bracket from the booster that attaches the booster to the pedal.
  2. Have someone push in the metal rod where the u shaped bracket was that is pressed by the brake pedal inside the car.
  3. Wrap a piece of cloth around the pin on the engine side of the booster that pushes the master cylinder.
  4. Use a pair of vice grips to grab the pin and keep it from going back inside when the person releases the rod inside the car. The trick is to use just enough pressure on the vice grips to keep it from slipping, but not too much to damage the pin.

With the pin locked in the “compressed” position and the U shaped pedal bracket removed, you will have JUST enough room to wiggle it out.

You will need to compress the pin on the new master cylinder the same way in order to get it in. I can’t stress how important it is to NOT damage the pin with the vice grips. so be VERY carefull.

15

thats what i was doing but gave up,but i converted my im to a 94 up idk if that make a differnt but i think its longer so i cant really wiggle it out but imma try again thanks

16

I’ve swapped the booster out twice in two different cars, major pain in the behind I tell you what. Once in my old DB1 with a B20Z, stock intake manifold (removed the resonator on top of the intake manifold to gain clearance), and just recently in my DA with stock intake manifold. The second time I was replacing my mounts, so that helped a bunch, but even then it sucked. The first time though, hated every minute. Have fun! :bye:

17

sounds like fun, to bad i got the flu …

18

[QUOTE=1ntegra;2080731]Getting the booster out with the intake manifold there is a nightmare. I invented quite a few new curse words while replacing mine.

Here is how I was finally able to get mine out.

  1. Remove master cylinder and everything that is around the brake booster so you have room to work Remove the U shaped bracket from the booster that attaches the booster to the pedal.
  2. Have someone push in the metal rod where the u shaped bracket was that is pressed by the brake pedal inside the car.
  3. Wrap a piece of cloth around the pin on the engine side of the booster that pushes the master cylinder.
  4. Use a pair of vice grips to grab the pin and keep it from going back inside when the person releases the rod inside the car. The trick is to use just enough pressure on the vice grips to keep it from slipping, but not too much to damage the pin.

With the pin locked in the “compressed” position and the U shaped pedal bracket removed, you will have JUST enough room to wiggle it out.

You will need to compress the pin on the new master cylinder the same way in order to get it in. I can’t stress how important it is to NOT damage the pin with the vice grips. so be VERY carefull.[/QUOTE]

I need to do this on my 92 GSR. But I have ITR head and ITR intake manifold with Hondata gasket. Will this write clear my intake manifold or do I have to remove it? I don’t think I can reuse the gasket if I remove it, can anyone confirm?

19

Scratch that whole Idea. Just put back on the ABS MC and flared the fittings. Should have thought about all this when I had the motor out.

20

man my brake still dont work is it probably for a prop valve to be bad??? maybe i got a line on wrong? cause i only get pressure to the right rear ??? anyhelp