Hey guys,
Its been a long time since ive posted here, being busy with school and **** lately, but i have a question i need help with.
Driving on the highway, my battery light came on. So naturally, i assume the alternator **** the bed. I rev the engine to about 4k rpms, the light goes off. Dip below 4k rpms…light back on again.
I made it home, about 45 minutes after the light first came on. Once im home, i grab the multimeter. Battery voltage is 12.6 volts…not too bad. I start the car…first, the voltage is fine…no battery light…running about 14 volts…+/- a couple tenths. I get bold, decide to take it for a spin. The car ran fine…but my battery light was still on under 4k rpms…and my voltmeter read about 12.4, steadily…but no accesories were on. 5 hours later, i move my car to the back of the driveway…start her up, voltmeter reads about 14 volts, and steady for at least 5 minutes before i shut her off.
Any Ideas? I was originally thinking alternator…but then was thinking maybe battery…then voltage regulator??? Im all confused at this point, and if i dont need to drop the 200 bucks on a new alternator, I would be extatic. Thanks in advance…hope to hear back from you.
my alternator did this right before it went out. it’s got bad diodes inside when you have to keep your rpms over 4k for it to charge.
if im correct, shouldn’t the voltage be closer to 15.0 volts when turned on? i think you got a bad alternator.
just from my experiences, get that thing out. go take it to a shop to be rebuilt, unless you run a fat stereo you shouldn’t need to upgrade to a larger amp alternator. for reference, mine was $80 bucks to be rebuilt, vs. $175-ish for a new non-oem alt.
Hey,
What about replacing the diodes? Think maybe the brushes could just be replaced? I am gonna try to rebuild it myself…but Im not sure about finding the right parts for it. I guess Ill do a lil more research. Ill let you guys know if I find the right **** for the job so you can do this yourselves next time your alternator goes out.
Scott