New System... bouncing Idle

I just put a 2000 Watt JL Audio system in my G2, Runs about 800 Rms, when my headlights and wipers are on there is a fluctuation on the low Idle, if i buy a capacitor will this cure my problem?

Qutoe from the guy at Winchester Auto

“Why put a band-aid like a capicitor on it, just buy an alternator that can handle it and you wont have to worry about it”


“Ok, so can I have the capacitor”

dunno who is right though…probably never will

Replacing the alt. with a bigger one is the best and only way to increase available current, however a cap can help deliver short bursts of current when needed by the sub amp.

Before you go and spend money on an alt. or cap make sure all the other needed things are done, grounding being at the top of the list.

Start by telling us the makes and models of the amps.
What gauge of power and ground cable are you using?
What type of fuse is in the power lead?
How and where is the power lead run in the car?
Where and how are the amps grounded?
Did you “beef up” the batt. to chassis and chassis to engine grounds?:stare:94

whoa, this is the best response i’ve ever got back… ok to business, it a phoenix gold 2000 Watt peak, but like i said im running about 800 Rms at 2 Ohms, i have 5 gauge power wire and 8 gauge grounding wire, theres a in dash-dvd, single din and pioneer speakers on the inside, ran the power wire through my c.c hole in the fire-wall since it was removed, i grounded to one of my rear taillight bolts/studs, i have a BRAND NEW durashit gold battery, like 1000 amps 720 cold cranking, i have a reman alternator from napa thats less than a year old, i havent tested lately but in the winter, with all my accessories i wuz holding 12 volts with everything turned on.

OK, first I need the make and model of the amp(s).

Using a smaller gauge ground cable then the power cable is not right, and grounding to a tail light stud is also not right.

5ga power cable???
What brand, and are you sure it’s 5ga?

“ran the power wire through my c.c hole in the fire-wall since it was removed”

“CC hole”???
What and where?:hmm: 94

its a monster set from walmart, by cc i mean cruise control grommet in the fire wall, where would u recommend i ground it? my whole back interior is removed so it shouldnt be hard finding a spot, yes its 5 ga. double checked, ill look for the model no# rite now. but i plan on going with a jl amp to compliment the jl subs, dont want to blow tensil leads again, what else is there, ive installed sounds before just never in a Spocom, figured it would drain alot of juice from the smaller car, no problems yet

Use a seat or seat belt bolt for the ground.

Amp ground leads should be as short as possible, should be the same gauge, or thicker, as the power lead, and should be in contact with the floor pan of the car.
Any bolt or stud in the floor pan of the car will work, make sure you clean any dirt/paint down to bare metal so ring terminal is making direct contact with the floor pan.

You should also at least “beef up” the batt. to chassis ground, run the same gauge ground lead as amps, from the batt. neg.(-) to the cars chassis, shock tower studs work well.

Your power lead should take the shortest possible course from the batt, into the pass. compartment and the amp, keep it as short as possible.

Burnt tinsel leads is an indication of a clipping amp, either the speakers are underpowered and the amp is driven into constant clipping or the amp is not getting proper current, poor grounds or power will cause an amp to clip long before it produces it’s rated RMS wattage.

What model of JL Audio sub(s) do you have?
Also what kind of fuse is in the power line?:tapfing:94

the newest series W3’s (2) and there is a 100 watt fuse if im correct, yea your right about the tinsel leads i blew some W0’s before using a weak amp, if anything else pops up ill be sure to post, but for right now im gonna look into a getting a new alternator re-grounding the ground and probably shortening the power cable, but it has only about a foot extra of length.

yea when your right your right, i blew my alternator yesterday, so i exchanged and got a brand new unit,… it says it cranks out 91 Amps at 6,000 rpm and like 41 amps at 2,000 rpm, we all know how hard it is swapping out alternators on our cars,… is this good enough or should i buy one of those aftermarket alts, at summitracing?

If you have to go through the hassle of replacing it anyway, I would look for something bigger… :hmm:94

u da best, gonna call em’ monday, thanks man.