keep it upp man hope its done by sat it will be good to see you again been too long
So I went to drive the car for the first time last night. Shift a few time then went down the street, shifted from 1st to 2nd let out the clutch and nothing. So I went to put it in gear let out the clutch and it just rolls like its still in neutral. I don’t know what’s going on…
Does the pedal feel any different? Did you hear any noises? Check the cable.
try and adjust the clutch cable
as they stated check the cable, make sure its still in the lever that actually aplies the load to the pressure plate, and also check to make sure the mounting bracket is still mounted, so the slack is still taken up on the end of the clutch cable.
Well I managed to figure it out, but now I am confused. It sheered off the teeth on the passenger side axle, it was my fault I didn’t get it all the way in, but my understanding is I have LSD and I thought I should be able to atleast limp it home. Oh well it has a new axle now and feels good. But now my car is leaking coolant and over heating like the water pump went out, although I dont think so because it is brand new from Acura. So I guess that is tomorrow project. And I am leaking coolant inside the car out of the heater core.
yes even with the lsd you will get that, if the whole drivetrain aint intact it will not move. its happened to me multiple times when ive snapped my axles.
o yea were still on some pics…were they at
Sorry for no pictures so far, i’ve just been trying to work out some of the small issues i’ve been having. VTEC is still not hooked up properly and I have some loose ends here and there but for the most part it is done. I finally got to kind of wash my car and I think I am going to go get some pictures tomorrow night after I put the interior back together.
On a side note: I figured out the leak on the motor but not the interior one. It was because of the O-Ring on the coolant pipe, that goes across the back of the block on the water pump side, was ripped in half. So at least I got that issue figured out and the car is drivable again.
whenn your car over heated with the last motor it may have ruined the heater core might need replacing or one of the connections from outside isnt on right causing coolant to leak in looking like its from the heater core.
Yeah thats what i’m thinking Seth, but I also have the dreaded passenger side leak now too. :uhoh:
Pics on page1 look awesome, perfect inspiration for Black Da owners
Keep up the good work.
Thanks! Yeah I may throw those rims back on… it just looks so aggressive. Oh and the car is going to be tuned on Tuesday! So i’ll see what kind of numbers it makes!
Well it has been up and down as of late. I didn’t plug the oil galley properly so I had to take the head off and redo it, well when I took the nuts of the studs one of the full studs came out of the block. Well I seperated them put the stud back in the block and put the nut somewhere, but now I can’t for the life of me find that damn nut. I searched for 4 hours yesterday and still to no avail, so I thought I would just try to order a new nut but no one seems to be able to get them.
I was suppose to have the car tuned today, but with no head stud nut I wasn’t able to put the motor back together last night. So I just have to wait and figure out what to do about the nut that has gone missing.
wow, thats so crazy. dont you hate when you misplace the smallest “biggest” things? i hope you find a replacement nut. have you called arp and asked if they sell just the nut or maybe a new stud and nut, i dont see why they wouldn’t. may be pretty exspencive, but worth it. il keep an eye out.
Well after ample freak out time, and checking every place I could think of, I called a local machine shop that had a replacement nut from ARP. So the motor will go back together tonight and dyno tuned next week!
glad to hear that, cant wait for results
Yeah I can’t either!
Well I keep running into issues… car is still not back together. I strecthed two bolts that hold on the end of the cam caps, finally got some new ones from a buddy so the head is all torqued down and the cams are in. I pulled plug #1 and it is coverd in oil on the threads but the electroid is dry and looks good, so I am thinking this from the oil leak I had. Then I went to replace the fuse that melted and it is a little worse then I originally thought. It melted all of the under side of the fuse box so the clip that the screw goes into is just hanging there by some frail plastic and the fuse had plastic welded itself to the side of the fuse box. Luckily I figured that one out before the whole car went up in flames but now I need a new fuse panel for the engine bay…
Motor Specs:
B20 VTEC
B20Z Block
RS Machine 84mm P73 pistons
Eagle Rods
Balanced crank
ITR oil pump
ITR water pump
GSR oil cooler
Eydyn block girdle
CTR crank pulley
P72 GSR Head
Full “Hot Street” port and polish from CC Cylinder Heads
SuperTech Valves
RM valvesprings
RM M22x cams
Skunk2 Pro series cam gears
port matched Skunk2 pro series IM
68mm Omni TB
AEM V2 Intake
Trans
00 J-Spec ITR Transmission
ACT 12lbs Flywheel
Competition Clutch Stage 2 clutch
HAsport cable to hydro converter
HAsport billet mounts
ECU
P72 w/ Hondata S200
I think thats it…
Thats thing is going to move once you get all the bugs, missing bolts, burnt fuses out of it lol. I want pictures…
damn man another false step. just keep at it, nothing worth having comes easy. and were the hell the pics at hahaha.