i just dropped a '99 b20b in my car about three weekends ago, super simple swap, i got a cherry engine, put my manifolds on it and dropped it in and she fired right up. all in all the swap took about 12 hours, def feels much better in the lower rpm range.
i plan on hitting up phearable here prety quick for a basemap cuz idk how i feel about this ls tune, it feels good and all i just feel like im not realizing the full potential of it yet
[QUOTE=lksdG2;2208413]i just dropped a '99 b20b in my car about three weekends ago, super simple swap, i got a cherry engine, put my manifolds on it and dropped it in and she fired right up. all in all the swap took about 12 hours, def feels much better in the lower rpm range.
i plan on hitting up phearable here prety quick for a basemap cuz idk how i feel about this ls tune, it feels good and all i just feel like im not realizing the full potential of it yet[/QUOTE]
alright well are you obd0 or 1 because i have a 91 ls and plan on keeping it obd0 for awile
OP,
I’ve originally considered this question a long time ago and still am as a matter of fact. I’ve also put in a lot of thought into purchasing a B20 despite legality issues in Cali. However, due to short funds and time I resorted to the b20b.
My food for thought? Well I’m also running OBD0 with the current low comp b20b. I have not run into any issues despite some electrical problems which was my initial faults and the ever dreadful FITV (hunter’s idle) during cold start; but it’s only intermittent. I digress. The car, however, is running great but not perfect. My idle is good. Oil pressure normal. No leaks. With the current bolt ons I have I do experience a major power dip below 3,300 rpm. Mid-range power is pretty amazing though. I also have bald tires in the front so I can’t predict how torque- y it is but I do feel a great difference as oppose to the B18A. Running a short-geared YS1 helps alot too :D.
It’s been roughly 3 months that I’ve ran it without a tune or chipped ecu. I know bad…but I haven’t run into any misfiring issues yet so I guess that’s a good thing. But I am burning a little bit more oil than I was on the b18a…
It was also my first time swapping an engine over and I have to say do your research. Took me 4months of researching and a lot of thinking but I’ve managed. Just be prepared to run into headaches. Do it right the first time.
p.s. Refer to this thread for further discussion if you are considering a tune for the b20b on OBD0 ecu
http://forums.g2ic.com/showthread.php?208155-B20-OBD0-ECU-Tuning-Suggestions&highlight=
well i contacted phearable and they said they will have the obd1 ecu tuned and ready before they ship it out and im wondering what ecu i should go with the p75 or pr4 and also if i convert to obd1 do i need to change the injectors or just the ecu and distributor thanks guys.
The ECU doesn’t really matter because once its chipped, it is whatever you want it to be. As long as the ecu you get is for a Manual Trans. car, then you’re good.
Colin has a great write-up on the conversion HERE
also i just went on xenocron and was wondering if anyone knows if the obd0 chipped ecus can get a basemap because if so i can just do that for now.
[QUOTE=shocker85;2208446]OP,
I’ve originally considered this question a long time ago and still am as a matter of fact. I’ve also put in a lot of thought into purchasing a B20 despite legality issues in Cali. However, due to short funds and time I resorted to the b20b.
My food for thought? Well I’m also running OBD0 with the current low comp b20b. I have not run into any issues despite some electrical problems which was my initial faults and the ever dreadful FITV (hunter’s idle) during cold start; but it’s only intermittent. I digress. The car, however, is running great but not perfect. My idle is good. Oil pressure normal. No leaks. With the current bolt ons I have I do experience a major power dip below 3,300 rpm. Mid-range power is pretty amazing though. I also have bald tires in the front so I can’t predict how torque- y it is but I do feel a great difference as oppose to the B18A. Running a short-geared YS1 helps alot too :D.
It’s been roughly 3 months that I’ve ran it without a tune or chipped ecu. I know bad…but I haven’t run into any misfiring issues yet so I guess that’s a good thing. But I am burning a little bit more oil than I was on the b18a…
It was also my first time swapping an engine over and I have to say do your research. Took me 4months of researching and a lot of thinking but I’ve managed. Just be prepared to run into headaches. Do it right the first time.
p.s. Refer to this thread for further discussion if you are considering a tune for the b20b on OBD0 ecu
http://forums.g2ic.com/showthread.php?208155-B20-OBD0-ECU-Tuning-Suggestions&highlight=[/QUOTE]
well i know the swap is pretty straight foward and im just wondering i know theres the extending that plug extended to the thermostat cover but is that mainly it on the wiring or are there other wiring things that have to be done and also which stock intake manifold should i run ive heard the b18b one is better but are the ones from the 94-95 integra the same as the 96 integra im
Call or send them an email… they’re easy to get in touch with.
i just sent them a email but also which stock intake manifold should i run and the b18b ones are pretty cheap on craigs right now
A stock B18 one is fine if you’re not wanting something aftermarket.
if you want to retain the fitv, you must go with 94-95 manifold. or keep yours. you’ll also need to keep your injectors
im thinking about just getting a aftermarket one but looks like i might go b20 after all i called a local import shop and they told me they would charge me 300 to convert to obd1 and that includes everything the distributor chipped ecu and the jumper harnesses plus that includes the labor so that sounds like a great deal and they also told me like everyone else has been saying that to feel the full potential of the motor go obd1. so looks like ill order the motor next week. thanks guys for all the help i cant wait to do this swap
Taking it to the shop for the OBD conversion could be a very good thing as long as they have good rep and can provide it on paper to back up their work. Should you encounter any problems “bringing it back” is a pain but is worth the trouble. That price isnt to bad if it does intale the swap completed properly. Ive been in and out of the write-up threads here and it seems like a chore, so yea if you got the dough, pawn it off on them :).
R1
i had one last question some people say the b20b are not reliable because of the thin cylinder walls and that could tend to crack im just wondering if this is true before i end up buying one
All Motor B20s are fine… But under boost, the sleeves are indeed weak. Its not due to the ‘thickness’ of them, its due to the way the cylinders are made… they aren’t the same as B18/B16 sleeves, and the difference in design made a weak-point in comparison to the other Bs. Adding boost (extreme cylinder pressures, compared to stock) is when bad things happen.
Stick with an all motor setup and you’re set… the main ‘drawkback’ is that the B20 will not rev as high as vtec motors. As long as you upgrade the rod bolts/main bolts then you can give it a bit more rpm and be safe… but if the bottom end is stock, do NOT go over stock redline.
ok so it will be fine with the simple bolts on and problably crower cams and also is my stock redline in my ls the same as the b20 and also i wanted to know has anyone used the crower stage 1 cams everytime i search people say to get the stage 2s
USDM B20B Redline is 6,300RPM
USDM B20Z/JDM B20B is 6,700RPM.
If you upgrade cams, you’re going to need to upgrade valve springs/retainers to handle the extra lift and duration.
When upgrading cams, you need to take into account how high you want to rev, that will dictate which cams you can run and where the motor will make its power… the higher the revs you want, the more sturdy the block needs to be. That’s when you get into the area where you need to upgrade Rod bolts, main bolts etc.
Point is… if you’re going to upgrade to aftermarket cams, you may as well make it worth your dollar and get some aggressive ones. But you need to also strengthen other areas of the block. Otherwise, just leave it stock.
ok thanks for that info
im obd1 but i reused my distributor and some of my sensors