Yup, I’ve searched, yup, I can quote the g2ic turbo guide, yup I’m buying now. I finally have the money to buy some stuff for my teg, so I am going to start by building an engine. I am 90% sure that I am going with an LS-T build, but wanted a final review of the choices. B17 is out of the question, too much hassle for me, as are the type-r’s (-C engines). So it’s between an LSVtec-T, LS-T and a B16-T. Only turbo teg I’ve ridden in was Chris’ (wow, total blank on possesive punctuation for names ending in s…), and all I got from that was that I MUST boost. I was tempted by the idea of a B16, seeing some really sick dynos, guys making power from 4k to 10k and craziness liek that, but that would take a ton of headwork, and that has scared me away a bit. I like the idea of an LS-T since I will keep my low-end, but I am worried that I can’t rev high enough to really sex up a turbo? With an LSVtec I can get a little bit of both, but will have to be a lot more careful in build, spend hundreds more, and probably require more maintance.
My goals are 250-350hp, just want it fast, not a dyno queen, reliability is a must , and obv no race gas. I will take my time with this build, I am dedicating this whole summer, possibly fall to just getting the engine ready, and over wintertime/spring I will piece together the turbo kit. If you need any more info in order to help me, just ask. Thanks a lot!
-Yuriy
i’d suggest lsvtec-t but something on the back of my head is sayin unreliable.
im ls/vtec/t and i did take my time. I built a spare motor up and bought part by part. Take ur time and dont cheap out on anything, I just bought things that were known to be good stuff. I didnt go out a buy real high dollar stuff like a $1000 manifold. I bought most of the parts online
Atpturbo.com flanges and t.bolts
steathmode.com turbo feed and return lines
tunertoys.com u-bends 90’s and 45 pipes or jcwhitney.com
xenocron.com ecu chipping parts and ostrich
race enginnering. com piston and rods
acura dealer for type r water pump and oil pump
also my local speed shop for misc stuff that i needed and couldnt wait for shipping.
I did alot of reading in this forum and a few others and many have helped out
my car is now running but i have to tune it now. It idles right now on 780’s but bogs a lil at 4k. So i know i just a lil more tinkering around and i will be street tuned. Then i will drive it to dyno.
i stopped looking at my reciepts on the money i spent. It was well worth it.
I installed the motor, turbo, ic,and chipped my ecu. I got the motor built by a well known builder in my neighborhood.
unreliable would mean that u got lazy and just threw the head on and turbo no tuning an reved the car to 9000 rpm thinking its cool.
Know what ur motor is capable of doin not what u think it can do.
and also many thanks to chris(xenocron) he made me think out my problems
and guided my way.
ls/vtec is reliable if done correctly, i belive Mike had ls/vtec turbo and was putting down 450whp at one point on stock sleeves he had a setup like mine http://www.g2ic.com/forums/showthread.php?t=121256&highlight=built+ls%2Fvtec my motor is going in next weekend hopefully and then i will run it na for a while to make sure everything is clear and then i will turbo, the guy that built mine took his time as well and thats the key, do it right and it will do you right!
I guess LSVtec would really be nice…how reliable would it be under boost with stock sleeves? I can Sleeve if I go LS-T but no sleeving if I go LSVtec…
If your gonna do it, do it right the first time. Sleeve an ls block and save $$$ for the vtec head. Your get what you put into it.
Thats the thing, it’s EITHER LSVtec-T or LS-T with sleeves. I cant drop a thousand dollars on a head+work and 1500+ for sleeves.
go and sleeve that LS block!!! you won’t be upset. go and upgrade your valvetrain on the ls head, if you don’t want to then save up for the vtec head.
yeah if i were to choose between sleeving and goin ls/vtec it would be sleeving, you can boost more and surpass what you would have gotten on the ls/vtec, plus you can bore it to 84mm and get a 2.0l
Would’nt boring and LS to 2.0 liters make the walls as thin as a b20? BEcause all the places I know of, they sleeve it first, than bore out the sleeves rather than boring it out and sleeving it.
read my post again thats exactly what i said
Uh, mine was a question about what you said, not a restatement. Read MY post again =p.
Here’s what i would do:
LS motor
Pistons, Rods
Head work
Valves, Springs (optional)
Turbo CAMS (optional)
NO SLEEVES
You will easily make 300-350 HP @ 12-14psi with an appropriately matched Turbo. Do some more homework, you don’t need to sleeve with your goals. You should be able to make over 300HP just with Pistons, Rods and HEAD work. Oh and a good tune ;-).
99% chance Xenocron will do the tune for me. Will it really be that reliable without sleeving it? Becuase I can buy a motor for 2-300$ and save a lot of money by not sleeving it. I really DO NOT want anything beyond 350hp, 300 will prob be good. People kept telling me that boosting w/o sleeves is too risky. What should I look for in a block to see if it will stand up to boost well? OBv, I will be replacing most if not all of the internals.
With those goals, as long as you have a good tune you will be fine.
I don’t think you get it lol. He did say sleeve first, then taht way you can also bore to 84mm to get a 2 litre
I think you should still sleeve it. your putting all that money into the internals, why not do it right? it’s really your choice because i think everyone knows that 1 person that is making 350hp+ on stock sleeve’s it’s always better to be safer than sorry in my books. reliability and 350hp on stock sleeves don’ mix. very risky. put your turbo on and it’s a whole different ball game. it’s a beast and will tear anything apart if your not careful. it’s good to see engine management used instead of the FMU.
sleeves are not needed unless your passing 350whp and with a blockgaurd 400whp. aftermarket pistons are needed. I have seen cryro treated LS rods handle 325whp for over a year. it finally went boom because of a boost spike to 32psi on a sc61.
Heh, well I think I will go with an LS BLock, all forged internals, 9.1 compression, stock sleeves, will decide on a turbo later. I will also replace all valvetrain, do headwork and shoot for 3-350hp. Thanks a lot guys. And btw, I will REALLY take my time putting it together, no detail will be overlooked.
2 Things, I should def get my bottom end balanced afterwards too right? And what should I look for in a block to make sure it is strong?
If its any consolation, I will be putting together an unsleeved LS/Vtec over the winter.
I dont think you’ll need to sleeve, you can rev the LS-V to 8000 pretty reliably without any headwork and make nice numbers.
http://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1290943
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