Oh my god! That it is ridiculous. No way in hell it lasts another year. 28 psi is crazy, 600+ fwhp from 7-9k. Love it. Ok, So I am for sure using an LS Block, but I’m bieng tempted with vtec heads again. Damn it.
LS all the way. All the toque, all the reliability, none of the VTEC riceboy BS.
You’ll have much more fun with it and won’t have to drive around with the radio off so you can hear when the engine blows and try to save it before it’s to late.
Power, reliable, cheap :rockon:
im shooting for around 300whp or so in stock sleeves with my ls/vtec (whenever my buddy decides to help me drop it in) I think i posted a link to it before, the guy i bought the engine from even gave me the reciepts where the motor was machined and balanced so i know its good to go, may take the ocasional trip to 8k but im gonna try to keep it around 7 for the most part just to stay safe, its pretty much identical to the motor thats making 600 hp only im not that freakin crazy, it does make me feel better about my motor though!
Goddamnit, everybody keeps saying contradictiing things (what I wanted) but nobody is making a better point than anybody else (not what I wanted) lol.
first off lets chill out with the gd bomb second off, you are asking a question to which everyone has their own opinion, you have to look at it from a stand point of which do you want, vtec will flow more then the ls. thats a fact. i think even the turbo guide describes a vtec as always being able to beat a non vtec if everything else is the same, and as long as the ls/vtec is built properly (which you already said you would be doing) it will be just as reliable as any other, and just as unreliable if you dog it out, both engines will be capable of the power you want. It is my opinion that the ls/vtec would get it to you a little easier and you can do the same kind of head work and bottom end work you want to do to an ls.
So, the real question here is what do you want ot do, both are gonna be a blast because you are esentially doubling the horsepower that either one of these motors would have na. so you choose dont let us choose for you. and if I were going to sleeve it and go non vtec then i would sleeve it and bore it to 84mm to get a better torque gain
and to answer your question about balancing, if you are going to have the block and such at the machine shop anyways why not get it balanced, and even if not i would still say yes because if you go ls/vtec you are going to want to rev higher meaning you need it balanced, and if you go with the straight ls and head work you are still gonna wanna take it into higher rpms since you are going to have useable power up there, again that means balancing
Thank you! 
Boy, you have never waivered in your LS love, thats for sure. I’ll give you that.
Although the VTEC riceboy, reliability comments are pretty plaid and untrue these days…wouldnt you say?
I’m gonna still say stick with the LS block, get yourself some good pistons and RODS and spend whatever money you have leftover in the head. It will be strong, reliable and will have gobs of torque to match your HP.
You didn’t mention perfomance goals but you WILL be able to walk pretty much anything on the street in stock form.
no
All the VTEC :hump: make me :vomit: Most people are :shrug: as to why they should get VTEC, but they see all the other :hump: and decided that they must :hump: too. They end up getting :whip: by someone that spent half the money while still having to rev the crap outta their setup to keep up :shock: Us LS folk on the other hand see where the real value is and know where to find :dance:
So go forth and :hump: all you want, the rest of us will :burnout: and 
at your wasted money
:nana:
Sigh, Okay I’ve decide. If I dont buy this head (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7985797390&sspagename=ADME:L:RTQ:US:1) than I will go LS-T. If I do, thaN ITS ls-VTEC-t me. The Head a good deal? (800$)
IMO ls/vtec turbo man, like said before dont cheap out do everything right and reliability should be the last thing on your mind
Well, while your comments are justified…you could say the same about going turbo. People get into this game because they heard from someone else that they did “this” and it made them go fast.
There are also many different types of people. Analyticals who research and plan everything before they do it. The expressives say they are going to do it, get all excited about it, but rarely follow through. Then there are the drivers who just spend money to get it done and figure it out as they go…and on and on.
Everyone has there own style.
I’m doing it because I want to learn and because I have been running my LS with two different motors for almost 2 years now. And I have tuned a few GSRs, B16s and LS/VTECs and there IS a major difference in the feel of these machines compared to my non-vtec setup. I can’t argue that, and you can’t argue that someone with the know-how and the ability to build an LS/Vtec turbo setup (like the one I posted that was tuned by Boosted-Hybrid) can do much better than on a non-vtec platform.
Even if I spend $500-600 more on a VTEC head…that should equate to a 50-60 hp raise at peak horsepower and at the same time broaden my powerband for a much nicer range. I’d pay $10 per HP increase on any upgrade anyday…and so would a lot of others.
I understand both Haber and xenocran. me personally helping my freind build his LS Vtec turbo was a nightmare. from the one and only distributor from the 89-91 B16’s that hard to find and if you do then you pay out the ass to have 1, to the hard to find ECU’s PW0 and PR3. with his set-up undoudbtedly his car made more power than my LS but didn’t last long at all. fully built with AEBS sleeves and every internal basically changed including the crank. His car was a 91 so staying with OBD0 and Vtec limited him to only JDM parts which in turn was more pricey than that of a OBD1 that can use any distributor from 92-95 GS-R.
it all depends on your wallet. doesn’t matter if it’s done right, if you jump in water head first your going to hurt something. before you buy anything LS-VTEC I would advise you read up on them and what to look out for. good parts and parts to stay away from. I will stay away from going LS/vtec myself but that’s because of my own personal experience with them and if I go Vtec it will be a GS-R or Type R engine.
oh another thing not to take this off the subject but I heard that JE pistons arent the best for forced induction, just naturally asperated? is that true? someone told me Wiseco and CP are the best for forced induction.
Dont take this terribly the wrong way but you guys had all those problems because it is painfully obvious that you didnt know what you were doing in the ECU department, and not many do.
A PR3 or PW0 ECU is mapped for a B16…why would you think a 1.8L Vtec motor would last a long time on an ECU incorrectly mapped for the application you put it on?
You could have easily converted up to OBD1 and ran a remapped ECU.
I know its your personal experience…but it was tainted IMHO.
Learn first as much as you can…then do and learn 10x more.
his ECU was chipped running 450cc DSM injectors and AFC hack. but I didn’t know who did it and who tuned it. I know it was chipped because when he had the stock pr3 in there he would get a cel because of the knock sensor input missing. he had the chipped PR3 which got rid of the CEL. I tried to look up a program like Turboedit for his ECU. I think BRE is the only program that handles that ECU. I was going to see if I could help him.
I run Uberdata and love it and that’s what I know about. and I know if you are running the set-up posted above and tuned at 5 PSi then you should have no problems.
who knows?? the people who supposidly tuned probably didn’t know what they were doing or something?