Dont run the GTX on the break in the rings will not seat. use only 30w non detergent oil during this time “dino oil” every one breaks in there engines differently I myself will only break them in hard on the dyno or the same way on the highway
only use 91 and up octane fuel I would use a af gauge to be on the safe side or just put it on a base map
ok cool so run the 30w non detergent for 500 miles?
The engine break-in procedure I am currently using (the Guru’s Method):
The Big 3 Rules:
The Procedure:
Disconnect distributor and disable injectors (ecu fuse). Turn engine over to prime oil pump. Wait till oil pressure light goes off or until your gauge reads that there’s sufficient pressure.
Connect distributor and injectors. Make sure distributor is set in the middle or slightly retarded. Start engine.
Look for oil/coolant/fuel leaks. Have radiator cap off to help burp the system.
If everything is OK then start to idle the car at 2k rpm. Do this for 20min. You want to warm the engine up quickly to reduce wear. Fan will kick on twice when it’s fully warmed up.
Once warmed up, set the ignition timing.
Road Test
Everyone’s break in procedure is different, and I don’t doubt that many of them work. Out of the ones I’ve read I trust the one from Dan and is what I’m using. However I also trust the general concept of breaking in the engine on the dyno, which essentially just means after some initial pulls you’re doing normal dyno pulls like you normally would for tuning. Since my car sees VERY little driving I’m planning on using a combination. I’ve done all the initial stuff according to Dan’s method, and now have about 250mi on the engine. Soon I’ll be bringing it to the dyno for the rest of break-in and tuning of course. I did break one rule and have taken it to redline a couple times - mainly because I know that I’ll be taking it to the dyno soon and wanted to make sure all functions were working properly before the car was on the dyno. Last thing I need was to hit the dyno, start paying for hourly tuning only to find out it throws codes at higher rpm.
Thank you sir. You are the man. However I noticed it says no steady rpms? Damn i will be making a 4hr trip back to tallahassee from tampa once I do get it running tonight. Hopefully she will hold up.
Just change gears a lot, vary your speed a lot, get on and off at every exit on the freeway… I’ve driven my car down to San Diego a couple times, but I just drive like a moron basically (or at least what looks like a moron to other people). First I’m going 50, then 80, then 50, then I exit, get right back on the freeway, 50, 80, exit, take a frontage road, 35, 50, 30, 55… just keep varying your rpm as much as possible. You can do through a combination of using different gears and cruising at different speeds.
just take 19 it goes up and down in speed enough
AllmansTeg has brought it to my attention that part of my break in procedure above may be inconsistent with what he got from the Guru. I’m going to check and make any corrections needed. It’s not anything crucial though, just has to do with the mileage point at which you switch from non-detergent to standard non-syn oil. The mileage posted above is perfectly safe, but I don’t want to mis-quote Dan’s procedure.
Well bad news. The skirt on piston 3 came out in chunks when I dropped the oil pan today. I think I brought cheap pistons. The tops are still good. I didn’t even get a chance to drive it or break it in. So the old p61 pistons are going back in to get me back to school. I then will attempt to put some pct pistons I have in. This is a depressing day. I don’t understand how this could happen even thing was done to spec and engine never seen any load. I am puzzled Thanks for all the help
I think I over tightened the rod bolts. The haynes manual say 30ftlb and so I did. What should I torque stock rod bolts to on the b17? Thanks for all the help again
According to the Helms it’s 23 lb-ft.
How would over tightening your rod bolts cause a fracture on the piston skirt?
yeah i dunno. Maybe a defective piston? The other 3 looked new still and I never drove it or anything, everything went back together with right torque and new parts. Only thing i can think of that may have cause it was not unplugging the ecu and building oil press before first start, however I am still puzzled? However she is running again with the p61 pistons and new rings. Going to get mt pct pistons pressed on the rods and run those whenever i get some time again.