Originally posted by 92GS-R
Alright… I think I’m going to go with the PR3 (1st gen b16a) pistons.
'Tony… if u do still need em … i got set of OS pr3 new with wristpins(duh should aready come with those) and rings in my room. im not using them since i went with wiesco’s lemme know… or email me urm0m2@aol.com
well, the problem I’m having with this is why not sleeve the block and get some real overbore pistons (84-87mm at most)that are MEANT to increase your displacement. Increasing displacement by using these overbore pistons is a sideproduct of the reason you’d buy these for their original purpose- to put pistons in after serious internal wear has occured and slightly boring and honing was necessary. This IMO is a good idea for someone that just wants their car to run again. However, if you’re in this position where boring is necessary to begin with, and you’re interested in power gains(if you’re a member here I think we can assume you are) then why not go the distance considering you have to do the dissassemble work to begin with. It will cost you a few pennies more to sleeve the block, and I’d say it would be necessary if you bore it out past 82mm, but why not? To me it’dbe like getting a valve job on your head and not adding any beefed up internals to your head since you had to take it off to begin with? I guess it really depends on your overall goal of your car, but for me it’d be a no brainer, and since my headgasket has failed and I’m gonna have to take the head off, if there’s any visible damage to the bottom end, I’ll be doing something of this nature that I’m referring to . my .02
Originally posted by gen2ls/vtec
well, the problem I’m having with this is why not sleeve the block and get some real overbore pistons (84-87mm at most)that are MEANT to increase your displacement. Increasing displacement by using these overbore pistons is a sideproduct of the reason you’d buy these for their original purpose- to put pistons in after serious internal wear has occured and slightly boring and honing was necessary. This IMO is a good idea for someone that just wants their car to run again. However, if you’re in this position where boring is necessary to begin with, and you’re interested in power gains(if you’re a member here I think we can assume you are) then why not go the distance considering you have to do the dissassemble work to begin with. It will cost you a few pennies more to sleeve the block, and I’d say it would be necessary if you bore it out past 82mm, but why not? To me it’dbe like getting a valve job on your head and not adding any beefed up internals to your head since you had to take it off to begin with? I guess it really depends on your overall goal of your car, but for me it’d be a no brainer, and since my headgasket has failed and I’m gonna have to take the head off, if there’s any visible damage to the bottom end, I’ll be doing something of this nature that I’m referring to . my .02
There is definitely more than a “few pennies” involved when sleeving your block and adding aftermarket pistons. The differences can be upwards of $600+, between using OEM pistons and aftermarket (w/ sleeving), and the gains can be similar with all else being equal.
BTW the pistons are not what is adding the displacement, but I think I know what your are trying to say. However, a larger displacement does not mean more power, especially when we are talking about such small increases as the case with import engines. In fact, unless the piston dome height increases, I would be willing to guess that one would lose power if only the displacement increased. The compression ratio drops as the cylinder becomes larger, yet the explosion does not become more powerful. No point in $600 JE pistons if you aren’t upping the C/R, or adding another power adding component (turbo).
So my overall response to your question, “Why not make it better while you can (doing engine work)?” is that may not be the point of your rebuild. I’m not saying the majority of people here don’t want more power, but they also aren’t looking for a time consuming, money robbing, big project either. Just a few cents to add.
pistons are not what is adding the displacement
that’s correct, but by getting a larger piston, you HAVE to modify the block to make it fit and by boring out the block you therby increase one of the dimensions that goes into calculating your #of cc’s. I understand the piston itself is not what makes the displacement larger, but a byproduct of larger pistons has to be larger displacement.
There is definitely more than a “few pennies” involved when sleeving your block and adding aftermarket pistons. The differences can be upwards of $600+, between using OEM pistons and aftermarket (w/ sleeving), and the gains can be similar with all else being equal
this is definately true, but what would you do for $600 that you could get a better gain out of. With proper tuning, increasing your displacement from a 1.8 to a 2.0-2.1 and increasing your compression from mid 10’s to mid 12’s(very possible on pump gas with propper tuning) would net you at least 10-15hp and 15-20lb/ft of torque to the wheels. for $600, what else could come close to getting those results(mention NOS and I’ll have to shoot you:gun: j/k). And I even think $600 is a low figure, more like $1000 extra. And from then on, any other bolt on that adds power you will get MORE power from those bolton’s b/c of your increased displacement. YES it’s a higher expense, but when it comes to $ for $ it’s a wise choice to make IMHO.
I guess this totals up to my .04 now 