Questions about b18c5 block

I have recently met someone who has a bare b18c5 block with a crank that wants $150 for it. He also has an extra GSR obd1 head he wants $100 for.

I have always wanted a type R engine because I know they are bad ass. However I know that finding a type R head is going to get really expensive real quick. As well as converting my car to obd2. I also have to swap my auto trans as well.

Will the GSR head work on the b18c5 block? I would love that option best because I am not looking to build a race car and want to keep obd1. I just want a car that will be good in daily driving and have everything work with no ECU codes. I also want it to be reliable to drive cross country at any time and have no worry. I would love to blueprint a type R bottom end, that and mabie some forged pistons and rods.

anyways, If I do buy this block and head, how much is it roughly going to cost to blueprint it, mill it, and rebuild it with brand new parts? I have enough know how to do the assembly myself, and I have good mechanics all around me to help out.

My target goal is 200 horsepower for now.

Since this is going to be my first engine build I want your opinions.

I emailed you. check that and get back to me.

Not sure what’s contained in iceman’s email… but a quick few comments

Those prices are cheap, but be aware that if you buy things separate and stripped down like that you can easily nickle and dime yourself to death finding all the little bits and pieces you need (not sure what all is included in those two), then there’s machine work…etc

If you swap an ITR engine you don’t need to convert to OBD2. The only reason to run OBD2 over OBD1 would be for smog issues (not sure how the laws are where you ilve).

The GSR head will work, but typically the ITR (pr3) is considered a better piece.

200whp is pretty doable. You can get that with a fairly stock “ITR” setup with some simple mods and tuning.

He’s not too far from me I’m going to try my best to hook him up. Plus i have a ton of parts in storage and my garage. i want to know what all he’s going to be getting if there are missing pieces I’m sure i can source them for him and keep his costs down. just trying to help out a fairly local cat out. :angel:

Well, here are pictures.

This GSR head looks like it just left the machine shop.
The b18c5 block is the real deal, the only things its missing is rods and pistons. There is a bucket filled with sensors, bolts, and various other parts that goes with it. I can buy both for $200. Also has the red valve cover.

With my budget it will take me about 6 months to piece together the motor and rebuild it. I would like to stay with this GSR head. Does the block look rebuildable? I dont see cracks anywhere on it.

Looks ok. I need to see the journal surfaces and the cylinder walls up close. Get my email?

I have bigger more detailed pictures, but they are about 10 megabytes in size.
I had to drive 30 miles to see this engine, and I took what photos I could that turned out good.

Looks to me like some idiot stole the head, pistons, and rods. Looks like the rest of the bottom end is still there. That GSR head has some dust and debris on it, but it looks like its brand new.
I have a GSR Intake, and this thing came with a whole bucket full of sensors from a GSR and the original b18c5 parts.

Get a hold of me on Yahoo messenger if you have it. Makes it easier to send the big files.

if the rods and pistons are gone, chances are the crank is shot too, but u have a great starting foundation. now simply source out a cheap, fully functional b18a/b shortblock. pull out the ls crank and rods, buy a set of arp rod bolts, 81.5mm rs pr3 pistons and balanced the entire bottom end (flywheel included). u will now have a nice sleeper motor…18c crank stability with the added displacement of the oem stroker kit, yet the block is still stamped c5.

How can I tell if the crankshaft is shot?

the machine shop we take it to will tell us. they will check it to see if the journals are nice and round, dont have excess gouges or scratches, etc. I’ve been through 3 cranks this year so i can probably give you a good idea if it’ll work. we just need to hook up once you’ve picked it all up. the price is beyond great. the crank is probably fine, unless there was some kind of damage being done, i.e. if the pistons and rods were stolen, i doubt they would not take precautions to preserve them, which in doing so would have htem treat the crank properly.

we can take a look at it man. i’ve got access to calipers and such so we can get a nice idea.

and is there a vin number on the block right above the oil pan?

I have been told that the parts are not stolen in any way at all.
What I meant by someone “stole the pistons” was that they took them out and sold them for another project. This guy received this engine block and head thru some parts trading someone owed him a lot of cash. He is looking to recover some of it by selling them.

OK, but make sure it has a vin number on the front of the block right above the oil pan.

if its not there and you see some marks or rivets where it should be, i’d be weary just for security reasons. even if you can prove that you bought it, its really up to law enforcement at that point what they’d do, since any USDM block from 96 and up had a VIN there.

Personally I would not touch any 96+ USDM block w/o a vin number riveted onto it

Truthfully, the motor should be fine. I would mic the cylinders to see their rough size. Stock bore is 81mm. If it’s Bigger than 81mm with that surface rust, chances are it has been bored once which if it has been bored, it should be avoided. As far as the crank journals on the crank, check for gouges. If you see any don’t get it. GSR and ITR blocks are dentical. If the GSR looks better, go with that.

Blueprintng is a little more difficult and normally requires that you have more than a set of rods, pistons, and hardware to piece it all together. Reason being is that blueprinting is weight matching and size matching of parts. It’s a little more difficult than that but a basicly all you’re gonna get from me and my iPhone ATM, LOL.

I have decided against buying the block and head.
I am just for now going to finish the maintainence on my b18a for now. Want to eventually just get another LS block though and convert to manual.