In a few hours I’m going to be installing the rear pads in my new car, this might be a sad sounding question, but here it goes- I got an automotive acura book (chilton, from kregans):read: , and all it says to do for the rear brake pads is-
1.remove the bolts to the caliper dust cover, and remove it. 2. take off the caliper bolts and lift caliper off of disk. 3. take off pads, and replace. 4. rotate the piston clockwise to retract. 5. disconnect the parking brake cable from the caliper arm. 6. check pad thickness.
that’s all it say’s, do I need to do anything else? like bleed the brakes? if you can tell me directly, is their a web site with detailed instructions to tell me?
brake systems (hydraulic) are sealed. Unless you open them by, say, removing the line from the caliper, then you will need to bleed the system. I don’t understand why that manual called for the parking brake cable to be removed from the caliper.
To change the pads and nothing else, you need only to loosen the top caliper bolt and remove the bottom one. The caliper swings up like a hinge. The parking brake cable bracket gets in the way so it is easier to remove it. Count on replacing the clevis pin and cotter pin that hold the parking brake cable in place. If the pads are worn a lot, the piston might be quite a long way out. When you turn it back in, monitor the brake fluid in the master cylinder reservoir in case it wants to overflow. Don’t let the caliper hang from the brake line. Use a coat hanger or other wire to support it. Then you will be able to inspect it easier and replace the pads.
I did it about a half an hour ago, very easy. I just took off the two caliper bolts, pulled it off, replaced the pads, screwed in the piston, and put the caliper on. took 15-20 min.
+1 to the above. Just hope you don’t have a seized caliper, and have to get a new one like i did. I took mine apart and lubed it and everything and it was already fubar. Had to get a new one cuz the piston would not go back in.
yup i think my caliper is seized…i bled the brakes there was air in it but…still the piston doesnt want to move or do crap. its not hard to replace the caliper right? from the looks of it the only thing thats going to give me problems is the ebrake cable.
How can you tell your rotors are bad? I brought my to a mechanic he said they were bad and all he did was look at it. They look like any other rotor to me.
I replace the caliper that was stuck…Ok i bled the brake caliper i just replace and thats it since its the only one i had to disconnect the hose. Is that worng or do i have to bleed all the brakes now? Because now when i took it for a spin its harder to stop like i realliy have to push the pedal down hard to get it to stop? what do you think. :read:
Hey, i’ve been reading around and this is the closest i’ve come to answering my question. Do you NEED to buy that tool to screw the piston back in? Or is there a way to do it with say a flat head screwdriver?
Somebody followed the rules.