Freshly rebuilt B18A1 with an str blockguard, je srp pistons and eagle rods. The blockguard was installed about 3/8 of an inch down the sleeve and was done before the block was bored out. I installed the engine N/A for breakin and had problems with it getting hot(about 3/4 the way up the factory gauge). I thought it was air bubles and bled the system and it seemed to go away for then.
A few weeks later i switched to a neon half rad and i really couldnt keep it cool. It would go up to 3/4 on the highway in 50 degree weather while driving at 60 mph. I would turn the fan on and it would cool back down.
This brings me to now, i ditched the neon rad, went with a fluidyne rad. Installed my turbo which consists of an inline pro manifold, precision turbo, 3 inch downpipe and exhaust and an open downpipe. The downpipe isnt quite out of the engine bay and im wondering if its part of the problem. I will be extending it in the next couple of days to eliminate that variable. Uberdata is saying the temperature is around 223 when its at 3/4’s. Engine oil temp is around 210 (i have an oil cooler) when its heated up to that coolant temperature. Im boosting 10 PSI right now.
I replaced the waterpump when i rebuilt it with a rebuilt one and it calved so i just put on a new oem waterpump and also just replaced my thermostat today. Fan is kicking on around 200ish and is pushing air into the rad.
I was thinking maybe its just not getting an adequate amount of airflow as i do have a lot of things in the way. I was thinking of taking some aluminum plate and putting it beside the rad and on top to sort of box it in and not let the hot engine bay air suck back into the rad.
Compression is good, 175 across the board. I have not done a leakdown test. I am running the felpro multilayer steel headgasket and am boosting 10 psi. There is No coolant leaks or coolant in the oil.
Any ideas on what the hell is up? Ive replaced everything i can think of beside doing the few tweaks above.
Heres a picture of the engine bay as it sits. You can see everything is ridiculously tight
heres my bottom end with the blockguard to show you what style of blockguard i have
wrap your downpie in heat wrap to try and reduce under hood temps, the block guard is definatly restricting coolent flow but all do. I see you cant use a full size radiator with the placement of your turbo and manifold. Make sure your coolent and antifreeze % are right as anti-freeze doesnt cool just keeps water from freezing, the water % is actully what absorbs the heat. Maybe wire up the fan to run all the time and get a colder thermostat. A upg fan would also help if yu already havent done it. Sorry for the long post but just giving out ideas
armed ferret. While i really do appreciate your less then helpful post i would appreciate it if you keepyour opinion to yourself
I did alot of reading before i put this engine together and as both you and i know there are many people out there running a blockguard without problems. However there are also many people out there runnnig then with problems or they blame their problems on the blockguard.
As im sure you already know alot of sleeving options also have a sort of blockguard built into them. This picture here is a little better coolant flow but its not that much different.
I would also say this golden eagle sleeve pictured below is almost worse for blocking coolant flow then my blockguard. So i guess your opinion on that would be that all sleeved blocks overheat as well?
Anyways i decided to try a blockguard to see how it would work for me. While this issue may be caused by the blockguard i dont really have the option to pull it right now. If i do it will probably distort my upper cylinder wall a little bit and would require the engine to be remachined. This is something i do not have the money to tackle at this time. God forbid i pull out the blockguard and have the same issue,then what? Im out a bunch of time and money and am back at square one. I would rather attempt the smaller fixes before i tackle anything internally with the engine but im sure you already knew that based on my post.
dark dragon,coolant is mixed 50/50 because i need something that will not freeze in the winter(i live in canada) I will try changing my fan back to being run all the time as well. The dumptube is already planning on being heatwrapped and i will be extending it a bit. I already put in the lower temp t-stat and the temperature guage didint go high last night when i was out driving so perhaps its helping a bit. More testing is needed though and i have to address boxing in the rad issue.
ive posted this topic on a few forums hoping for some new ideas but it seems like there isnt much less to do/try as im getting the same ideas posted over and over. worst case it doesnt stop i will have to remove the blockguard sometime in the near future.
personal experience with nearly 40 built engines, some sleeved, some blockguards, others stock sleeves? you bet.
since you have no idea who i am or what i’ve done over the course of my life, i’ll thank you to not form an opinion about whether or not i know the subject matter at hand, k? thanks.
btw–sleeved blocks don’t overheat as much as stock-sleeve blocks with guards because of the metallurgy involved. but then, someone obviously as bright as you already knew that and surely woldn’t just hop on an e-bandwagon for status now would you? :roll:
if you would, please explain your “need” for a blockguard at all. if necessary, i’ll share dyno plots of cars that have been making well in excess of 400 (and one at 517) whp for well over 2 and 3 years with zero problems–on stock sleeves. astoundingly enough, they don’t overheat at all! :shock:
i’ll let that one sink in. prepare your rebuttal well. comic relief for the g2ic community depends on it.
i recognize your name from here as i do frequently read the boards. I have notresearched sleeves very much because they were not an option due to cost. It was actually a member of these boards that was my final deciding point as to whether or not to run a blockguard. He has ran them on many setups without any problems and was a very active member on the boards at the time i emailed him about advice. I am well aware that there are many people out there runing 400+ horsepower on stock sleeves.
Anyways i dont want this to turn into some pissing match. Im sure you are very knowledgable about built engines. This is my first built import engine so im constantly learning new things. That has been the most enjoyable part of this 1.5 year project. i have built a few high horsepower 350’s in the past but thats a completely different ballgame
Anyways back on topic.
Since you have built so many engines…do you think that removing the blockguard will distort my cylinder walls enough that i would have to take the engine apart and have a machine shop true everything up again?
whether there’s actual distortion depends on how it was installed. obviously a welded-in guard is going to cause more issues upon removal than one that was just “maneuvered” in with a deadblow hammer.
when you alter the structure of a block it’s always a good idea to have a machinist check it over.
well, your radiator is in a shitty place. You basically are hiding the radiator behind the headlight and it looks like an oil cooler as well, where you would need the most cooling. Also, the half size dual core radiators hold the same amount of coolant as a stock Integra radiator, which the engine is made for, so youre not exactly holding more coolant. A pusher fan is not as good as a puller fan, Im sure you know that, but on top of that, you are blocking any free flowing air from hitting the radiator at the same time. Remove your headlight, and front bumper and drive around ( your residential streets so you dont get a ticket )and see if your temp lowers a little bit. If so, you know its placement of the radiator. I know you have no room for it in the front, but without proper cooling you wont be going anywhere. The blockguard is also contributing to the higher temps. I would say run the fan constantly with your setup.
Haha! Someone smart agrees with me. Airflow = the shit, I would think that better rad/ic/placement would solve your prob without fucking with the block. Just IMO.
2-3 years :bs: you drive them daily with the c16 that made 400+whp? you make retarted statements all the time. You try to make people think you know what your doing but, you havn’t a clue. thus, prooving this feat wasn’t ever accomplished.
anyways getting back to the topic, if your car dosn’t overheat with the fan on all the time, just leave it that way. it won’t cause any problems.
Block guards don’t raise water temperatures. They do, however, create hot spots on the block and cylinder where the block guard sits. The block guard is not the cause.
I sounds like you’ve covered just about everything else so I’ll throw this out there. Are you sure the felpro head gasket water holes that are around each cylinder matched up with the holes in the head?
I’m at a loss right now but I’ll keep thinking on it.
c16? we don’t have c16 in omaha. ever heard of full-race motorsports?
or maybe evans tuning/boosted-hybrid.com?
that’s two of several cars they’ve both built, on pump gas, doing well over 400. as you can see, that one’s over 500. pump gas, not cheater gas. daily driven, not a track whore.
i never said i owned the cars, or that i had anything to do with building them. you, sir, are the ass for assuming that. please continue to attempt to belittle me. it’s pretty funny.
sorry for the broken pictures. they are back up now.
for those of your who chose airflow, you are correct. I used aluminum flashing beside the rad to stop it from pulling heat from the engine bay. I also build flashing for the top to box that in as well as there is an inch or two above the rad when the hood is closed. That in itself didnt fix the problem so i had to wait till i had some time off to do some more testing.
so today i went out and pulled the bumper and also moved the oil cooler. Drove around(its about 70 degress today). temps were constantly at 190F. Drove for about 30 k on the highway and it never climbed any higher then that. Fan wasnt on either as the temp was low. Did some 3rd gear pulls, the temp would actually drop as i was doing the pull then of course after it would jump up. Id stop on the side of the road and let it idle. It would slowly climb(to be expected) until it hit 202 F and thats when the fan would kick on. After that it would drop back down to 194 and the fan would shut back off.
I saw temperatures drop to 178 when driving around. this is a huge change from before.
All temperatures were monitored inside uberdata as i only have the stock guage for now.
So now that i know the problem i need to figure out an effective way to route air in front of the rad. Im going to go post a picture of my car with the bumper off and then with it on as soon as it stops raining out…
told you 