Skunk 2 intake manifold installation

Any one have any pics or tips for installing a skunk 2 IM on there teggy. If not i quess ill just have to do a write up on my install.

and yes i searched through like 10 pages of thread w nothing.

new studs would be good with hondtata style gaskets

do not use brown fuel rial spacers
u need m6 bolts to bolt down fuelrail to im

u need to modifiy the FPR
it hits the runners

u need to remove fitv

you’ll need the following:

-3rd gen gsr fuel rail
-ITR Throttle Cable Bracket

And also what ^^ stated above.

:think: from what i read during my searching i should be able to use the stock fuel rail till i get my aem.

What lenght do those m6 bolts need to be?
Can you explain how i need to modify the FPR?( i do kinda see it might be a problem)
With FITV, all i have to is to put angle hose barb between the coolant lines right?

Integra gs
your right on that TCB( The holes wont line up right)

when i installed mine i didn’t have to do anything to the fitv, just tcb and fpr?? my aits hit the tcb so that was really the only reason for that, nuthin hit the runners…

what engine is this goin on though???


cut weere it bends
so its feed stright

dont know length just get some and check
yah just reroute the fitv
look at the coolent flow in helms and work it out

u can use 1 bolt on the TB bracket
i used it for 1 year
and i abuse the shit outa the throttle

what u can also do is use a dremel and make the hole into a slot
for the last bolt

What is FITV? :corn: I have the same manifold and will be installing it soon.

Some one said the engine would lose power with this manifold. My set-up will be a B20B (low comp) with a 95 LS head and cams. It will be turbocharged with a 60/63 T3.

FITV- fast idle thermo valve…and i’ve heard that they make your car slower to, but i don’t think skunk2 would make sumthin to make your car slower…its just that ppl tend to forget that tuning is needed whenever anything is changed dealing w/ a-f mixtures.

its slower becuase
it needs/like more

cams+good header+= will be good with the skunk2 manifold

fitv is used when its REALLY cold outside
to keep ur car from stalling

since im in CA i never had a problem with it
only thing is
when u start it cold
it starts at 2500 and within secounds it drops to 1000
which takes longer to warm up thats all

God dam rivercity how many projects you got ging on right now???

So hears the deal today i went to the dealership and ordered new collant hoses, Collant bar o-rings, Pcv hose, Injector seats and seals and an ITR throtle stay(bracket). Ialso decided to just say fuck it and ordered my AEM fuel rail and regulator. everything will be hear tomarrow.

As for the stock rail, It could be possibley be used, I just didnt like the way the injectors sat down into the bosses when the rail was tightend down.


So after two days of staying up till 3 in the morning. Here we go, im not going to go over the whole step by step( you have to refer to the hayes for that.) But what problems i encountered.

So first off, I recomend replacing all vacuum lines, coolant hoses, and oil breather hoses under the manifold, PCV valve, O-rings for the water pump feed tube and fuel return line. From the dealership your talking about $125 w an ITR throtle stay. You can also just get generic coolant and vacuum lines, But certain hoses like the lower PCV hose have to be gotten from the dealership.

This refers to the picture below
A: Engine block to oil breather
B: to FITV ( is relocated to to IM due to removal of FITV)
C: Coolant Bypass to IM
D: To heater core inlet

The other hole in the to of the oil breather is the hose that goes up to the IM where the PCV valve plugs in. It snaped like a twig when the stock IM was removed( Both hoses where very hard and needed replacement)

you can barley see the coolant hoses barb to the IACV on the water pump feed pipe just to the left of the hose clamp on hose A:

Here is another angle with the new hoses( I left notes on some of these picture to kind of help explain stuff)
once again
A & B; Coolant bypass hoses to IM
I also recomend replacing the two o-rings for the coolant bar to the left.

Be very careful on the replacement of the heater core hoses.( Right hand side of pic) They are brass and can be bent out of shape very easily, if you do fuck them up the only way to fix them is replacement of the heater core($$$$$$$) I recomend taking a razor and cuting the hose on both sides and and use only your fingers to pry the hoses off. A little axel greese make the new hose slide on with ease.

Here is a picture of the back side of the IM
A: Coolant bar to the IACV
B: TB to the IACV( as you can see, this hose was ready to burst at any time.)
The other hose barb on the TB goes to the cylinder head coolant inlet from the radiator.

A couple of things about the manifold. Fitment was great but the center stud hole is not flat on the outside and the nut didn"t want to sit flat against the IM, which could probably lead to a vacume leak.( would recomend flatening it out with a file of dremel tool)

The original throttle stay could be modified to fit but I just oppted to get an ITR one(Perfect fit)

The throtle body fits fine, the throtle cable just clears the IM
to get the studs out of the stock IM, I just used the double nut method and they came right out.

The stock fuel rail could be used, BUT the FPR needs to be fliped over and even then the return line has to go over the IM and the vacuume line has to go between runners 3 & 4( Didn’t like that at all) so I just spent the money for a AEM fuel rail and FPR for a 94 integra

Be sure to take your time puting in the fuel injctors into the rail, so that the green orings dont get pinched( happend to me and I was leaking fuel all over the place from injector #1:rant: (use clean motor oil and just take your time pressing them in) I also replaced the seats and seals on all the injectors for the hell of it

The one problem i had with the fuel rail is that the stock fuel line only goes on one way and i bends toward the IM. Wasn’t a huge problem just turned the fuel filter A lil bit and it fit fine( But i do plan on replacing it w stainless steel Fuel line that just goes strait out of the rail.)

Alot of carb cleaner and a shop vac will clean up the intake runners in the head quiet nicley

Here you can see the build up of crap in the stock intake manifold vs the Skunk 2

So to finish up

The mounting bolts for the Stock manifold are not used, But dont think this should be a problem due to the fact that the S2 is a lot lighter

Make sure you tighten all the manifold studs( At first start. I had a idle problem, It would jump from 1100 to 3100, but after tightening all the nuts down for the manifold and the TB. it drop to a bounce from 1100 to 2100)
I drove the car for a day to get all the air bubbles out of the system. with a adjustment of the Idle screw, the car idles at a steady 1k RPM

I still think i have a small Vacume leak somewhere due to the fact that i had too turn in the idle screw almost all the way. but as long as i get a steady idle at 1k rpm, i cant complain.

Well hope this help anyone that is getting ready to get a Skunk 2 and good luck on your install.:up:

Nice write up! Did the Skunk 2 manifold give you any power or did you feel sluggish? Have you tested your car out at the track yet?

in al onhesty i haventy realy been able to get on the gas, My clutch is going to shit on me. I did notice that the engine definatly breaths better. that gurgleing sound that come from the resinator(ebay cat) at about 4500 rpm has disapeared compleatly. and the engine seem a bit stronger in the upper rpms. But thats by the seat of my pant dyno. and we all know how acurate that is. I am in need of new studs and bolts two stiped on me and that might be where my air leak is coming from. im going to the dealer ship to get new studs and bolts and am going to replace all of them tommarrow.

first off I’d like to say good writeup, I didn’t know that installing this manifold involved all of this modification. I will be doing this soon as well and I have a couple questions. If the FITV is in the pic above, how are you suppose to relocate it to the IM or is it kinda self explanitory when I see the manifold? Also, what’s the problem with the stock fuel rail?

If you look at the picture of the two manifolds. you can see the Fitv under where the TB sits where as the SK2 dosn’t have one or even a spot for one. If you look at the second pic( w the new hoses) hose b acttually went to the fitv where as now it just follows hose A and loops up the the IM.

AS for the Fuel rail, When you look at the pic the FPR is actually turned 180 degrees that the way it comes from the factory. Your gonna have to get a longer piece of fuel return line and run it over the IM and and new vacume line that will have to go down between runners 3&4 I think i already explaind that but fuck it.

Also since your in there you might as well remove the IM bracket. im going to do that friday when i pull it back apart to redo the studs. and put on a new oil breather tank.

Watch that fuel inlet it only goes on one way. Hope that helps.

Yeah that did help. I was just wondering where the coolant line went. I got another fpr when I bought mine and it points straight up. It’s for a civic and I think that’ll work. Thanks

Hose a in the pic is from the dealership so it originaly goes to the IM and hose b went to the fitv.

did u have a problem w the center stud not being flat and the bolt fiting flush w the manifold

I haven’t recieved my manifold yet. I just got it off of ebay. We’ll see when I get it though. It’s the older style, not the newer ones. Did you also use the stock IM gasket? I was considering one of those low temp ones while I have it off, but I’m not really sure about them. Some people claim that the temp difference is very noticable.