nuggets, the 1st time the motor came apart was to replace the valve guides (smoked when I hit VTEC). At the same time the Valves, Springs and Retainers was upgraded (Ferrea). To increase compression, the block was decked(.003) and the head was shaved(.003). This was almost a mistake because we had to “notch” the timing belt tensioner in order to take up the slack. I drove around like this for a few months on the stock P61 ECU. While saving for the Cams and Gears.
After installing the S2S2, I immediately heard a difference upon starting up the car. She revved with more of a growl than a whine. Upon driving the car, the difference between the Low Cam and HI Cam was very noticeable in both noise and power. And now everyone else around you knew when you hit VTEC. The power band felt strong straight to the factory redline, and now I find my self hitting the rev limiter more often. Stock rev limit now sucked!. I then invested in a Hondata and got her tuned. The engine made 164whp on the fist pass to 8500 rpms. After about 60 mins…we were up 179.9whp @ 8900 (stock intake manifold and t/b, DC Sport 4-2-1 SS Header-Heat Wrapped, DC Sport SS Cat Back/No cat on a DYNO jet) and the session ended there.
Thats was part 2 of 5.
what pistions are u running with that setup^
Part 1 and 2 was on the stock pistons. (b17a1)
Part 3
After 4 or 5 months with this setup, I wanted more so I sprayed her for a few months with a 50 wet shot, and even tried a 75 shot for a few weeks till I spun a rod bearing after a mis-shift from 2nd to 3rd gear.
While the engine was apart, I decided to bump up the compression some more by using some Wesico’s 11.2 or 11.4:1, I can’t remember the exact #'s. New bearings with the micro polished crank and a 7.5 lb Flywheel. At this point, I was really happy with the way the engine preformed (with the same tune). It was weird, because I never really “fixed” any thing for a while. I Just drove the shit out of her everyday…and changed the oil every 2500-3000 miles. Then after about 6 or 7 months… one of the earing/clip that hold the wrist pin from sliding out, fell off and cause some damage to the piston wall.
Wana hear part 4?
yea lets here the rest.
so if i put the ctr pistions in with a stock headgasket and get it tuned im fine? now i kno i will need to get it honed but other than that do i need to change out all the bearings and bottom end parts.
I can’t answer your question about the CTR pistons and stock head gasket.
From the information Archon (this guy knows his shit) provided, I was say yes.
If you are that deep into the motor, I would suggest that you invest the money and get all new bearings and have the crank polished and balanced. While you’re at it, if you’re going to buy pistons, might as well go a little bigger bore with a 20 or 40 over.
Part 4.
The forth time the motor came apart was due to a wrist pin clip that fell off and scuffed up one of the cylinder wall. So I had to had the blocked bored 40 over and some new bigger pistons to match the bore. I went with CP’s this time (11.4:1 I would have to look to be exact) This time, I had the block, including crank, rods, pistons, fly wheel, clutch assembly and crank pulley was sent out to Race Craft Engineering to get balanced. The B17A rods were shot peened, with a floating piston setup. I replaced all fasteners with ARP.
The head was also redone this time. All skunk 2 valve train, a very expensive port and polish job, ARP hardware every where.
Basically… I went all out like, ITR Oil and Water pump, Greddy timing belt, Fuel rail and Injectors, FPR, AEBS IM, Hondata IM Gasket, bored out Throttle Body… and so on.
Hey… I have to head home… I’ll finish part 4 when I get there. TGIF!!!
-home.
After everything was assembled, we had to use a Hondata ECU from a ITR with lambo doors and shark gill fenders. We couldn’t get the car to stop surging at idle and I suffered threw 500 miles of being embarrassed @ stoplights but omg!! it flew to the redline …wait… there is no redline!!! I was like WTF! I swear on my kids that I buried the tach several times in several gears over several days. There was no transition point in the power band from low cam to high cam(~6000RPM), it just shot to the redline.
The surging was fix by advancing the intake cam gear 2 degrees. To make a loong story short , I drive around with that computer for 1 month and had to give it back.
We bent all the exhaust valves on the dyno tuning my Hondata ECU and then…
well… I’ll save part 5 for another time.
geez, looks like you’ve been through alot. haha. I’d love to hear part 5. I think I might have to read it again to really understand what happened with your motor setups. I’m interested in how you liked simply having cams and a nitrous setup? My motor right now… is in such immaculate condition… I really would hate to rip it apart. I can get a ton of life out of this thing before I have to drop anymore money into it. So nitrous would be a cheap alternative for a power increase…
How often do people make 200 whp n/a out of a b16. Not very often. To get to that number is expensive. It requires aggressive cams, and a valvetrain to support the higher revs. This is why most people who want to make horsepower out of a 4 cylinder engine use turbo’s/nitrous/blowers. Cheaper horsepower with more torque.
indeed. question is, i was looking at wet kits last night, and some of them seem to be over a grand brand new. How much would a wet setup cost compared to say… a mild turbo setup?
nuggets, is not as simple as having cams and nitrous. The cams came after the valve train was upgraded. The nitrous was to compensate for the weight disadvantage of my DB2, it’s the cow of the 2nd gens. We don’t feel it because of the gear box but she is heavy for a Honda.
I bought my single forger kit for $300 off craigslist, and help my mechanic install it.
The 50 shot allowed me to keep my AC and PS and was able to walk a few SRT4’s, G35’s, well you get the idea. 2nd gear and anywhere above 5000 rpms and just gunit!
:note to self: get LSD!
Nitrous is usually frowned upon around here, but the truth is… it works and its cheap,
and sometime the truth hurts… meaning, you can become addicted and you have to refill often.
Aztec Sama, you are correct on all 3 points.
ok so what do you think about running a 50 shot wet on a i/h/e b17 with 140k its a daily driver so i want it to last. the motor is strong burns maybe a quart a month if i autocross it and drive hard.
Red, I can’t tell you to do it… common man… don’t put me on the spot.
My motor was practically brand new which gave me some confidence.
I would say… if you are serious about doing this, start with the smallest shot possible, see how it feels and take it from there. You can even do a 25 dry shot to start of with.
With the computer controlled kits they have now, you can’t fuq it up… but it will cost you to play. There is a thread on here some where regarding using Nitrous as a power adder.
If you really want to go all out, get a hondata s100. You you can have single fogger controlled by the hondata and the fuel is added through your injectors via the hondata.
You have have it set to activate only at a certain speed and deactivate at a preset rpm which is soooo sweet and you can hide everything nicely under the hood.
For the record, I never lied.
When I get asked " whats under the hood" I say “it’s all original” which it was.
All stock and all original is 2 different things, are they not?
ok my roommate is saying you cant spray for more than 10 seconds without really fucking somthing up. whats the deal with that? also how long does a tank last. a smaller tank that i could stash under the hood or by the spare.
Why would the amount of time you spray nitrous matter? That’s like saying “If your going to use Nitrous in a 1/4 mile race, you better be running less than a 10 second E/T, or you’re screwed!”
Your roommate is a dummy.
anyone have some proof to back that up? i have a bet with him id like to win
agreed
Red, don’t listen to your friend, I bet you he is a sloppy character?
He should be out cleaning your car and pass him on when you’re done…dut dutty hoe!!
ok so now if i go with the 75 shot whats the most reliable way of setting it up. i want to use it for autocross and street. probably never go back to the strip. looking at around 600 budget.
I wouldn’t recommend using nitrous when auto crossing.
I would start with a 50 wet shot.
WOT activation and with a window switch to have the system disengage @ a certain RPM.
600 bucks will get you there if you spend it wisely.
See if you can find a complete kit on Craigslist or eBay…
im so up in the air what to do i have a almost complet turbo kit in my garage but i know the motor wont last long with that setup, but i kno if i get in the motor im gonna want to replace a bunch of stuff i dont have the moeny for now. nitrous would be a good deal because i would use it alot less then i would boost with a turbo. i also want to retain my ac/ps which the turbo deletes.
Nitrous is addictive!
Start small shot and work your way up.