I socketed my P61 but it returns a solid CEL when J1 is jumped. I used a willem programmer to program an AT29C256 with the stock B17a .bin… Does anyone have a socketed ECU that I could borrow for like a week to diagnose my problem? Perhaps a chip with a known-good program? I just need something to benchmark against.
Have you tried burning the rom on a diff chip? also check your sodering jobs. They can be picky sometimes
I went ahead and re-checked all the soldering last week with my boss at work (I work for the nuclear physics group @ UNH) and he re-did all of the soldering points for me. I did find however that two of the pads (one on the 373 latch and the other on the rom) were burned off so I had to solder in two jumpers to fix it. Everything checks out fine with the continuity tester now however, and we found no shorts. Just to be extra sure, we cleaned the board with PCB cleaner and went over it with a magnifying glass. It all looks good.
I have not tried a different chip because I only have one, however my burner automatically verifies the chip after it is burned against saved data, so it would detect any flaws. Now I am worried that maybe the latch chip that I soldered in is burned out or something? Everything I put in was recieved in good condition new from Digi-key.
You could have burned out the latch…happens sometimes with beginners.
If you need a new one let me know, i can sell you one for dirt cheap and ill give you a socket to solder in to the ECU instead of just soldering the HC373 directly to the board…that way you cant damage it.
$4 shipped…
Chris
www.xenocron.com
If someone will fix it for me I will pay a fair amount. Not too much because there are people offering socketed ECU’s on other websites for ~$140. I can probably sell the P61 for ~$80. $60 to be rid of the problem might be worth it at this point. I could pay someone like $30 to fix it though…
if you want to send it to me i could give it a try…replacing the latch wouldnt be a problem
no promises though since you are sending a bad ECU
I wouldn’t really call it a “bad” ecu, since it runs my car just fine. The socket doesn’t seem to work, but it runs just fine with J1 cut.
Ok then…an unwell ECU 