Spongy brake fix?

[SIZE=5]Lots[/SIZE] of people on [SIZE=3]G-2-I-C[/SIZE] are complaining about spongy brakes on thier tegs…correct? i will join that list: I just replaced all rotors-pads-lines-MC…and i still got that spongy feel in the brakes HOWEVER when i push down pretty hard on the brakes it stops firmly. So i am proposing that perhaps we are looking at the wrong thing here, maybe the problem is not in the hydraulics of the brakes but maybe it’s from the brake pedal hieght and brake switch free-play… after many years and many miles of kick the hell out of it maybe it needs an adjustment!
:OUT: :hump:

do you have abs?

calling out all ppl without abs is your pedal spongy too?

i think i remember reading with abs equipped it’s spongy. When no abs the lines connect directly to mc. But with abs the lines go the abs module on the left side of the car. Look in your helms describe how abs work.

Pretty much there’s a slide piston that is open and when it’s open fluid from master cylinder flows through slide piston to the lines connected on the abs and to the brakes. Now when abs is engaged the slide piston goes up and down effectively cutting off the chambers fed by the master cylinder and opening up another chamber that allows fluid from lines to equalize (lose some pressure) and etc.

I think i remember reading ppl that don’t have abs have firm pedals.

I’m not expert cause i just got my teg a week ago, but i have been researching for about 4 months. When i bought mine the guy said somethin about the brakes being spungy, but still stop firmly when u press hard. The definate fix for this problem is by replacing the Master Cylinder. Once you replace it, assuming the rest of your brake system is working, you will be braking like new.

i’ll join the club i have ABS too. and i have replaced the MC, pads, rotors too.
my brakes are spongy and dont stop worth a shit the first half of the pedal travel. once i get to a certain point it stops great. i’m about to bleed the brakes again but with some speed bleeders this time. hopefully i’ll get a better bleed and they wont be so spongy.

same problem, no abs, replaced rotors, calipers, and MC

Well Im not certain on the size of the abs/non-abs master cylinders or wht parts transfer over from other honda’s. But my teg is fine. I have an LS thats bled properly with SS lines and my pedal is pretty firm (much more so then my first G2).

If you guys are really sick of it, look into getting a larger MC. Maybe a legend, vigor or accord will work. Has anyone tried? Have a slighty larger piston will decrease the brake pedal travel significantly because it will exponentially increase the force applied via moving more fluid.

I swapped a Z32 MC into my S14 240 and it got rid of my mushyness…

Maybe my brain is just out to lunch this afternoon, but I thought there was a 1/16"th difference in the ABS vs. non-ABS MC. Isn’t the non-ABS MC 15/16", and the ABS MC 1". Are some of you guys with ABS getting the wrong size MC from the parts store (parts guy may be pulling the wrong one off the shelf)? And has anyone checked on the booster after installing a new MC and still getting a mushy pedal?

I have no ABS on my car and the only time my pedal was mushy was when the MC was bad. I had Acura replace it and it was good as new.

EDIT - it is a different part number for the MC (ABS vs. non-ABS)

Replace the stock rubber brake lines with stainless steel lines and that should fix the problem. Assuming that there is nothing mechanically wrong with the braking system.

This is not really an answer to the overall problem. It may be a possibility, but there is nothing wrong with running OEM lines. Yes SS lines are good to have (I have them on my car), but the stock rubber lines are quite adequate. They have come OEM on cars since… well forever. The part about “assuming there is nothing mechanically wrong with the braking system” is a BIG assumption. It is fairly obvious that some if not all of these guys with the problem have taken steps to locate it. A fair assumption I am sure is that some of these guys have already switched their lines for OEM replacements or SS.

I am still going to bet that it is an aging booster or bad/improperly installed MC.

If you haven’t tried bleeding your brakes do that. If you have ABS then you will have to gravity bleed them so you can get the air out of the ABS system to. Gravity bleeding takes longer but it’s the easiest way to do it without taking it to a shop to get it put on a machine that will open all the valves in the ABS system.

i didnt get a chance to read all of this… but if somebody replys just to my post with a quote i can answer some more on what i say

we have 2 tegs

both are 91 RS’s (non-abs)

one of them u barely touch the brake and the thing is quick to throw u thru the windsheild

the other one has good range… a little to alot… not alot at once with very little adjustment

i glanced around and noticed this
both of our cars… as far as i know have the original MC’s
both have also had the boosters changed

and a comment on the bigger mc

advanceauto sells a special order MC thats one size larger than stock and its made to work with our cars

every body bench bled then bled the MBC again, then bled the caliper lines, correct?

Yeah make sure that you bled the MC very very very good, I also recomened getting speedbleeders for those of you that dont have them already, they make the bleeding extremly easy and you will not have any air left at all. When I redid my brakes i went through 2 big ass bottles of brake fluid trying to use a vacum pump, which broke, and then the two man method, after 2 bottle they still felt like shit, and I had changed to stainless lines too. Bought speedbleeders and 15-20 minutes later they were bleed right…now my pedal has a total trvel from not touching it, to locked wheels of about an inch…

Buy sleedbleeders, stainless lines, and make sure you bled the MC correctly.

Make certain to check your rear calipers, everyone. I’ve got a left rear that is locked about half way through its travel and it makes the brakes feel REALLY spongy (they actually feel like they don’t stop the car worth poop). I found the caliper was locked when I tried stopping on the highway and the car pulled over the centerline (I was in the left lane) and damn near onto the shoulder with heavy pedal pressure. I’ve also found that my pads on my left rear are nearly wiped out in only 40,000 miles of driving (fronts I could understand, but not rears). I’ll be replacing my bad caliper when I remove the ABS and replace the rotors and pads (EBC red stuff…mmmmm). I’ll let everyone know how it works out.

40k miles is pretty nice for a stuck caliper… it couldnt have been that bad… mine was half stuck… within 30-40miles the pad was half gone

The beautiful thing about it was that it wore the pad down to the point at which it didn’t contact the rotor, but it didn’t wear it down ANY further because the caliper won’t compress at all beyond where it’s at. I was a bit confused until I figured out what it was, too. I think it may have stretched my e-brake cable on the left side…man, I hope not.

i had this problem for about 4 months and my dad put in ss brake lines and i haven’t felt the spongy feeling again. i’ve been riding on the ss brake lines for about 5 months now and it’s still pretty firm.

Had that problem too (spongy) - ended up being caused (mostly) be a bad rear caliper.

I have heard synthetic brake fluid helps.

well this weekend i replaced all my pads with OEM honda (had generic advance auto pads before) and installed my speed bleeders and flushed the system. much much better feeling than before. its nice and firm when i stomp the brakes and its nice and even. it used to pull to one side under hard braking.
e-brake still sucks ass though. cable must be fucked up